365 GT4/2+2 Air Filter Replacement

Good day,

The side opposite the brake booster is not an issue... simply unclip the air box cover to remove the filter. The side adjacent to the brake booster...you have to remove the entire airbox, which is a bit of work considering to do this means removal of the air horn trumpets.

I remember reading a post a long while ago where an owner replaced the air filter with a foam carb filter "sock". This allowed future air filter maintenance to be done without removal of the entire air box assembly. That said, I am unsure how much filtering the sock would provide, as I think the intended use is to keep out larger debris and may not filter small particulate.

Cheers,

Sam

 

Yes you have to remove the six trumpets. Once the six trumpets are removed you have to remove the 6 studs. Each trumpet is held on with one bolt and one stud with a nut. To remove the studs you will need to put two nuts on a stud and tighten them together and then you can remove the stud. When putting every thing back together the front lower snap that holds the lid on can flip the wing way and you’ll have to take it all apart again. I use masking tape to hold that clip in the correct position. For tools you will need a 10mm swivel 1/4” drive and you will need to make two special 10 mm box end wrenches. These wrenches are to remove the furthest toward and rear top nuts on the trumpets. The wrenches need to wrap around the top of the trumpet to reach the nut. While you can access the bolt for these nuts from the outside the nuts are self locking and therefore need to be held with a wrench. I’d say the first time you do this it will take 6-8 hours for removal and install. If you’d like I can take a picture of what the modified wrenches look like. It’s a real mofo to do. I just take my time and don’t stress about it. I can’t say how important it is to tape the front lower clamp in the proper position. If it goes back too far and you install the assembly then there is no way to flip the clamp closed because it will hit the exhaust header heat shield. And yes I have installed it with out the tape and had to take everything apart again.

 

I’ll add to reach the clamps on the bottom of the air filter I reach my arm in from the front. It’s a long reach but doable. I start with the rear most on the bottom. On the passenger side once you take the battery out it’s much easier.

 

My car has always had the Pertronics (sp?) system installed so I can’t answer that question. Some people have done a mod where one of the distributors controls the spark timing for both distributors. I’m thinking of having this done.

 

If you changed from self locking nuts to regular nuts the job would be easier but the possible damage of a nut and or washer loosening and getting sucked into the engine is something I don’t want to have to worry about Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

The velocity stacks and air boxes are removed but the studs do not need to be removed for the air filters to come out. Like Sam was saying, the side without the brake booster can often be changed without removing the airbox with some finagling however you are bending the air filter somewhat to do so. It's usually best to just remove the airbox. I've never needed modified tools to remove the airboxes.

 

Our cars must be slightly different. I definitely have to take the studs out. It is close on mine.