New owner with ventilation problem

Looks like I’m in need of 63307100. I currently have my dash out for re-covering and just recently noticed my air stuck in the defrost position. Figured I should tackle it while the dash is out. I went to remove the actuator and…it isn’t there. Somebody must have had a problem with it in the past and the “tech” solved the problem by simply getting rid of it entirely. The system was blowing out of the dash vents for the past couple of years, but a bump in the road may have finally caused things to dislodge and move to their natural resting positions.

So, what’s the story with the superseded part? Have people had success with it? I’d like to keep the electrical connector on the car original, so is there a similar connector I can attach to the new part? Thanks.

 

You can see it at ferrariparts.co.uk

 

Thank you. I have looked at the part and it has different wiring. I want to make sure people have had success with it and, if so, what rewiring was required to install it.

 

Ferrari new part on left. You can see it here but is has 90225 printed on it.

90225 5h Heater Vent Flap Control Actuator Motor for Mitsubishi Car FR86341-56 on right (1998).

Not saying they are the same, but if you can find one they may have the same gear set as the original units This Mitsubishi unit sold to about $12.

Both are Magneti Marelli.

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It may be worth a try if I can find one, but chances of the mounting holes lining up and the potentiometer outputs being compatible are probably not great.

 

If anybody has a non-working 63307100 laying around, I’d be happy to purchase it

 

After digging around, I’m assuming the new part (869184) has been modified or is completely different from what is shown in the photos on the parts dealers’ websites. I put in a call to Valeo since it appears to be made by them, but they had no idea what I was talking about and only seemed to deal with transmission parts (U.S. customer service specifically). Is anybody with the new part able to get good photos of theirs to see if this is a part we could order outside of the dealers? The price is extortionate for what the the thing is. Alternatively, does anybody know who to contact at Valeo to inquire about this? If the part was commissioned by the dealers, then I can understand the high price, but if it’s an off-the-shelf unit, there’s no reason to pay their prices.

 

The new part is VW
2Q0907511E, a bracket, a shaft and a connector that you have to repin yourself.

 

I assume the connector that is included is compatible with the connector on the wiring to the HVAC ECU? I might just have to bite the bullet and go with the superseding part, but there isn’t much information out there about it. Thanks!

 

I wouldn't be surprised if the new connector matches the new part and you have to repin the car side of the connector. That's what you have to do with the new version of the heater valve. Much more difficult up under the dash than inside the front boot though.

 

Old Vs new parts (I'm a sad parts hoarder)
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I’ve only recently begun my journey as a parts hoarder. My wife is so happy for me!

 

Would this one do for the trunk AC flap motor ( busted gears ) ?

https://lkwteile.autodoc.de/bosch/1146393?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAoWFwrfCem4K7niECtTJWDSA_ir3E&gclid=CjwKCAiAtYy9BhBcEiwANWQQL4G3iYfhwsBMS-XWs1_22kuaFM7QSbQxDkE02DhKpHv2eY2qSv4OlhoCuzMQAvD_BwE&gshp=1&tb_prm=14317815025&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google

 

Some of us just replaced the gears. I 3D printed replacements in polycarbonate and others have used different materials and techniques. There's a post on it somewhere.

 

I have a Mitsubishi one and opened it. The circuit board inside is not a potentiometer.

I have also dozens of alfa/fiat/lancia actuators which are the same as Mitsubishi one.

What you can leverage is only the gear set, if one of them is not cracked, and the motor. The case is the same as 63307100 so mounting holes is not an issue, however, the lower case is different from 63307100 with no stops.

Search ebay, you can still locate genuine used and new old stock of 63307100, if you don't mind the crazy pricing.

 

I was able to get a NOS part and just got word that my dash is done being re-covered. Fingers crossed that the actuator works without having to chase down ECU problems or anything else. Will hopefully update with a success story in a week or two when I have time to work on the car.

 

Nice and lucky!

The dash you mentioned means the gear?

You might already know, 63307100 actuator itself can be tested first before you install it on the car, which is not easy to put the screw on, just simply connect the 12v battery to the red and black wire pin to see if the square moves.

 

I guess I’m lucky I could find one at all, but paid a pretty penny for it. Oh well.

As for the dash, I was having the dash leather replaced due to shrinking. It is ready for me to pick up.

I had read about testing the actuator off of the car. I wonder if the internal gears would get brittle after sitting in a box for years and years. I guess I’ll find out soon.

 

Oh, yes, the aging gear is something to worry. Hope you are lucky again.

I saw the NOS $1,995.99 on ebay is gone. You do pay a pretty penny if that's the one you got.

There is another NOS on yahoo Japan at 220,000 yen.

 

That is the one I got, however the seller accepted a lower offer than the listed price.

 

Good for you!

 

Got my new actuator installed and…nothing. Time to start the diagnostic process. Maybe first I’ll take the car for a drive and see if anything comes to life, but I highly doubt that will be the case. I have not bench tested the new actuator yet, so I’ll probably start there after the drive.

 

It should at least cycle through its full range if you reset the battery and turn on the ignition. Whether you'll hear above all the other things happening when you switch on the ignition is another matter (fans/radio/fuel pump priming (5.2), etc...)

If it doesn't cycle, either the actuator is faulty or the ECU chip has blown.... or, less commonly, you have wiring issues.

 

It did not cycle. I took a video of the tambour during the first application of power (center vent was still removed) and nothing happened. So it sounds like:

Step 1: bench test the actuator
If successful
Step 2: test the connector coming from the ECU for power

Does that sound about right to get started?

 

Does the tambour actually move when you push on the vanes (through the centre vent)? My tambour has some sticky spots. For a 360 deg. test, you have to push on the vanes through the centre vent and via the foot vents. It's quite fiddly and there are some sharp edges to navigate.

Or you could just try a battery reset with the actuator not plugged into the tambour.

A bench test sounds good. Can you also check the potentiometer values as you apply power to the motor? A 9V battery will drive the motor (perhaps even a 1.5 volt AA)

I'm not sure if the ECU supplies power to the motor if it can't see the actuator potentiometer in the circuit. Give it a try anyway.