Would you have a part number for the plug/clip?
I ordered the kit off Amazon. Figured I may need others one day... https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Automotive-Electrical-Connector-Connectors/dp/B09GN8TQYQ#productDetails
They look like regular waterproof plugs. I thought you were looking for some with special mounts/clips on them to attach to the seat?
I was but nothing was coming up. These have recesses built in them for clips. I bought two of these: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/368165-1/2299220 And two of these: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/85229-1/2299191 Pretty sure one or both will work with those connectors.
Seat reconditioned and installed. It moves forward and backward nicely and when both seats are fully forward, the top motor activates when I hit the 'close top' button. But now when I hit the button for the top to close and both seats are back, the driver's seat moves forward but the passenger doesn't. The passenger seat will move forward when I hit the button for it, but it doesn't move with the convertible top button like it did before. I didn't touch anything on the passenger seat. What gives?
Sounds like the potentiometer broke. Can you take resitance readings of the potentiometer in the aft and forward positions (across the blue/black and black wires... or rather the colours they correspond to on the potentiometer side of the seat connector)? Probably easier said than done.
Which seat do you think broke, and which do you want me to test? I assume driver's side but just confirming...
I was thinking the passenger side, unless, that is, you spliced the wires incorrectly on the driver's side? Did you interfere with the splices upstream of the new connector? i.e. where two wires go into one (ground and power) Image Unavailable, Please Login
So, I didn't touch the passenger side wiring at all. The only thing I changed was the connector on the driver's side. Did I wire it wrong? Anything is possible, and I can take the seat out again and check. But if the driver's seat reacts properly with the convertible top button, wouldn't that mean it's hooked up correctly?
If you only changed the connector and didn't re-splice the wires, you should be ok on the driver's side. I understand you didn't touch the passenger side, but things break on these cars at the most unexpected times. That's why I'm asking you to check the passenger side potentiometer readings. If you still have access to the ECU, maybe you could check the resistances there instead of under the seat. Of course, you'll have to plug the ECU in to move the seat.
Can you post a photo of the wiring on the passenger potentiometer plug (car side of plug, not seat side). You should have a grey/yellow wire (power), black/blue wire (input to ECU) and a black wire (earth)
I replaced the connector on the driver's side which included cutting the old connections and crimping new pins on to be inserted into the new plug on not the pot side and the car side. Let's say for a second that I connected it up incorrectly.....would that effect the passenger side? I'm going to need some guidance on the ECU side, including which ECU to test and which wires.
Unfortunately, I don't have enough room on that side to get under the seat as it's up against the wall. The door won't open enough.
Ok, I'll post some ECU pin numbers for you to check, but at some point I'll need you to check power on the grey/yellow wire at the seat.
Is it possible that the crimping and soldering of your new plug is faulty? I would check the continuity between the black wire on the driver's side and the black wire on the passengers side plug. Also check the continuity between the grey/yellow wire on the driver's side and the grey/yellow wire on the passenger side.
Anything is possible. I only crimped. I decided not to solder because I didn't want so much heat on the wires. And my crimping tool did a great job. I'll check it all and get back to you.
Image Unavailable, Please Login I mean test like this (with both plugs not hooked up to the potentiometers).
I've had to do similar contortionist checks on my wiring. Just be careful you don't break anything on the centre console if you have to lean on it. If the continuity is ok for these wires, do a resistance check between these pins on the ECU plug harnesses.... not on the ECU... (for passenger seat potentiometer checks) Image Unavailable, Please Login Note that the black wires should be at ground potential. However, if you do continuity checks on the individual black wires directly to the chassis, you may get slightly higher ohms readings than zero. Sorry for the delay, I was a little busy this morning.
Here's something that's interesting and may be a clue. I just went to move the seat all the way forward so I can get the back two bolts out, and it wouldn't go all the way forward. It stopped a couple inches before its maximum forward allowance. I knew this because I couldn't access the Allen bolts that holds it into the chassis because the seat belt was in the way. So I disconnected the pot and then it moved all the way forward.
Good to know. I guess the potentiometers (and the calibration settings in the ECU) affect both manual seat operation and automatic (with roof button) operation. I suspected this a long time ago, but couldn't prove it. Unless, of course, there is something weird going on with your wiring. Just to confirm... you're not pulling the seat out again???
I am pulling it out to check the wiring is correct and the pins are all in place. Should I leave it in? It's hard to see the connector and impossible to check the wire colors.
