348 Starter Problems and Options

Totally irrelevant to the problem you described, but incase people are searching for starting problems and find this thread…. I had starting problems when hot. Turned out to be that circular 8 prong (iirc) connector in the engine bay above the rear left wheel well. I rebuilt the connector and it’s fine now.

 

By the way, what grease did you use when repacking the flywheel?

 

The wrong one

 

This is what Google's AI "thinks":

Klüber Application Range:
Offers a vast array of specialized greases for specific industrial needs like high-temperature applications...

SuperLube Synthetic Grease:
SuperLube is a multi-purpose synthetic grease often used in consumer applications, suitable for everyday household uses like hinges and slides...

When to Choose Klüber:

• High-performance industrial machinery with demanding operating conditions.
• Applications requiring specific properties like high-temperature resistance, extreme pressure lubrication, or food-grade compliance.
• Precise lubrication needs where specialized formulation is crucial.

When to Choose SuperLube:

• Basic household lubrication needs like door hinges, sliding drawers, and tools.
• Situations where a general-purpose synthetic grease is needed.
• Cost-conscious applications.

Matt - perhaps, after all, your hot start issue and appearance of code 4114 are caused by SuperLube? Looks like it would be good on the Ferrari door hinges but maybe not so good in the flywheel.

 

SuperLube Synthetic Grease Viscosity (Base Oil):
69 cSt @ 40°C
8 cSt @ 100°C
The SuperLube viscosity drops from 69 to 8 cSt (almost 9 times) between 40C and 100C.

I could not find comparable info for the Kluber Unisilkon GLK 1301, only found the following description:

"As a damping grease, maintaining consistent damping properties is critical, and the formulation of GLK 1301 is designed to minimize viscosity changes that could affect its damping performance."

 

Found this on Kluber (AI again):

"According to available information, the viscosity of Klüber Unisilkon GLK 1301 is typically measured at 100°C (212°F) and is around 500 centistokes (cSt)" and
"Due to its high viscosity, it is designed for applications requiring good damping characteristics, like in two-mass flywheels to reduce vibrations."

If the above info that Kluber GLK 1301 has 500 cSt at 100°C is correct, it means 62 times higher viscosity than that of SuperLube at the same temperature.

PS: The SuperLube's viscosity of 5 cSt at 100 C is described as "viscosity of light oil".

 

The Super Lube website does not list any "Super Lube Extreme Temperature" grease, only "Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease with Syncolon" and "Super Lube High Temperature Extreme Pressure Grease with Syncolon". I guess you mean the second one I mentioned.

This grease has even lower viscosity at 40C, and same at 100C, when compared with Super Lube Multi-Purpose:
Super Lube High Temperature Extreme Pressure Grease Viscosity (Base Oil):
45 cSt @ 40°C
8 cSt @ 100°C (way way lower than 500 cSt of Kluber)
See the attached datasheets for both types of Super Lube Greases.

In the case of grease for the flywheel, it is the viscosity that matters, not the high temp or extreme pressure, especially important is holding good viscosity at higher temperatures. Klüber Unisilkon GLK 1301 was specifically formulated for two-mass flywheels and it provides good viscosity and damping across the temperature range. If I were you, I would replace the very "thin" grease you are currently having with proper Kluber.

 

Here's the Klüber Unisilkon GLK 1301 datasheet. It shows the viscosity at 100C as 500 mm2/s which is equal to 500 cSt (1cSt = 1 mm2/s).

 

Great to hear internal parts are available. Where did you buy the parts?

Regarding the flywheel grease and hot start problem and the near entire value of the car spent on the car in the last few year I think you said...there is a solution. While the car sounded perfect when purchased obviously you got problems and multiple problems. I have worked on Ferraris for about 45 years. Your repair success rate will increase if you lay the ground work for success meaning are the basics there for the car to run. We know that with the 348, claimed to be the worst car to leave maranello, the aftermarket (that's us) made these cars reliable. First tip would be when in doubt repair it the ferrari way. That means if Ferrari says use kluber grease then use kluber grease as it has been shown to work for at least until the fleet aged and we need a solution to the grease related hot start problem. I'm one of the first to really take the 348 apart. There is a thread here about my use of alternative grease as an experiment. Second tip don't reinvent the wheel. Third tip is research here to see if your problem has been fixed before and follow that aftermarket fix if the fix has stood the test of time. Final tip is to set the car up for success. Do services that ensure the car can operate as ferrari intended. Do a proper balancing and cleaning of you injectors by the right shop if you don't have the diy chops or equipment. A 12v car battery and can of carb cleaner on your injectors is an unreliable and questionable outcome and a very poor "fuel injector service" by anyone's standard. If we work on these cars ourselves we should try to do at least as well as the local ferrari mechanic. Hopefully we can set the bar even higher because money we save on labor can be repurposed for parts and "while you were in there" and we have the time as diy guys to "measure twice and cut once."