360 In Search of Parts - Pnuematics System "Depression Pipes"

Those are lines that feed vacuum to the vacuum accumulator (the big round thing). There are two check valves that allow air to go one way and any one way valve will do. If I were you, I would use stainless steel brake lines and form them to fit into the same shape or roughly the same shapes and attach hoses at the ends.

 

There is a black vinyl covered aluminum tubing we use for our racecar fire systems. If can be bend to look real nice and hold shape with a hand tube bender at room temperature. I do not know where to get it. It comes with our fire system kits. https://www.lifeline-fire.com/shop/106-001-011-zero-2020-fia-3-0ltr-fire-marshal-mechanical-fire-suppression-system-1900?category=1

 

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Engine bay gets pretty hot. I would use something higher rated.

 

I do not know but that's what is supplied with the fire system kits. The fire systems are routed into the engine bay and that tubing has been in car fires yet seems to do the job without failure. I would have no problem using it since it's for fire systems. I took a pic of the writing on the tubing so you could hunt for it. That's all I got...

 

The pneumatic lines in question run along the edge of the fender and above the wheel well. The temperatures in that area are very close to ambient. When I was making my TB kit, I did a study on internal temperatures in the area of the TB's and they are well under 150F, I think the highest reading I got was 140F at that was on an 88F day.

Available here: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2456

I like it! This is the type of thing that someone could make a kit with the connectors already in place. I know my lines are getting icky and need changing soon too.

 

From my experiments, I didn't see a temperature over 140F going across the top of the engine. I was interested in the oil vent lines so that's probably the same neighborhood. A good test would be to take a piece of the material and wind it through the places of interest, run to temp and let cool with the lid down. If you see no damage, then it's probably well within tolerance. If you see an area that shows damage, a bit of extra insulation may be in order in those areas but I'd guess that this material would do just fine in the engine bay.

 

I asked this same question back about 6 months ago. I got no response. I don’t think these are available new anymore, or if they are, are pretty expensive for what they are. Back in my FD Rx7 days, we used to replace all of the vacuum lines with hi temp silicone line in. Various colors. It was the type that didn’t collapse under vacuum. There isn’t anything special about these lines(with the exception of the one way check valve) I was thinking about going this route, but I currently just wipe them down every few months and they stay pretty clean. I just replaced all the fuel and evap lines because of the same issue(the ones on the firewall). It got so bad back there, the goo pulled the paint on the back ledge of the firewall. There are some additional evap hoses that go from the evap canister to the solenoids under the passenger side side cover. They seem to be the most gooey at this point. These are pretty speedy new, so definitely going silicone on these.

 

Hey, another thought… if you went the silicone route, you don’t really HAVE to run the lines the same way the depression pipes are currently ran. You could hide them by running them with the F1 hoses(if you have the F1 system) or anything running that same way.

 

I'm in the same boat. I'm going to try just replacing the main part of the hose with silicon vacuum hose and reuse the one way valve part. I'll post whether this is successful or not in a couple of weeks. I think it'll route ok and look fine despite not being formed.