After many years of deferred maintenance, have found an independent Ferrari Trained technician to do the work on my car. Please give this video a look and subscribe to his channel for further updates on the work completed on my car. Thanks!
Interesting video. Not sure I would agree with a couple of his comments: oil at Min level, dead headed secondary air pump drawing more current and blowing fuses.
Thanks for the link. Will you be fixing the Immobiliser issue? Looks like your siren battery is fried.
I thought I'd try and test this, but ran into difficulties. A current tester I specifically bought for this kind of thing which is designed to plug into fuseholders wouldn't fit into the Ferrari fuseholder. The mouldings around the Ferrari fuseholders were too deep to insert the tester. I tried a clampmeter next, hooked around to a loop of wire inserted into the fuseholder, but it doesn't have a peak setting. I videotaped the current readings on startup and it seemed to showed a peak of around 18.17 amps, but settled down to 12.5 amps. I don't know if this is a normal value. Seems a bit close to the 15 amp fuse limit. The fuse feeds both the motor and the solenoid valve. I'll recheck the values after my car cools down.
Ran a few more tests and with the hose removed from the valve (i.e. valve closed), the peak seemed to be less, but the running value was around an amp higher.... 13.59.
My comment is based on typical centrifugal pump performance. (Of course, nothing Ferrari ever does is typical.) HP (or watts) is a minimum at zero flow, max P (deadhead). Power = I x V. V(voltage) should be constant, thus I (current) should go down. Also, for the current to rise the pump RPM should drop. So listening to the pump could help. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Air pump fuse was 15 amps but a TSB raised it to 25 Failure of secondary air pumps in 355 among others follows a standard pattern. They get condensation in them and the cheaply made motor shaft bushings go bad. The pump over time gets noisier but owners typically do not notice because it is so gradual. Due to the bushings friction goes up, current goes up and eventually even a 25 amp fuse is not enough. If it is any way related to deadheading its because disconnection accelerated the condensate related bushing damage.
Second video on the Major Service on the 355. Please give Nick's video a like, subscribe and share his content: Happy Holidays! Image Unavailable, Please Login
That is hands down the best 355 servicing video I have seen on YouTube, up there with the content Ricky at RE Performance puts out for the Lambo lads.
great work, but this guy saying Belts shoudl be done every 3 years is a little too "fear mongering" IMO ... Most realistic old school mechanics i've talked to have said 5-7 years is just fine (not trying to get into belt argument here)
Wondering what the current approximate full engine service price is in the states at the moment? Assuming other issues aren’t discovered and it’s just a regular belt and maintenance service
Highly dependent on the labor rates in your part of the US. In super expensive Northern California with an independent shop it's about $12,000 including a water pump rebuild, but I know people who have shipped their cars to other areas with lower labor costs as it may be cheaper overall.
How is that price justified. Ferrari book time is 40 hours IIRC, but a decent indie can do the job in half that or less. That's a labour rate of several hundred dollars per hour; is that normal for the States?
It's $2250 for the 30K maintenance kit $200 per hour times 40 hours is $8,000 Fluid service is $800 Water pump rebuild is $400 plus the labor to rebuuid With 10% tax, there is your $12,000 bill. Where I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, $200 per hour for a Ferrari tech is hard to find.
I know of nobody who can remove a 355 engine, perform a 30K service on it, and reinstall said engine, in 20 hours.
It takes me 5-6 hours to remove the engine, by myself, in my garage, using the 2 jack method. Getting the undertrays etc off whilst lying on the floor takies ages, so a lift would prob speed things up a bit. Same again to reinstall, then a bit on top to bleed the brakes (power bleeder is a good investment here). Say 15 hours start to finish for me. Timing belts don't take long to do, using the factory marks. Neither does swapping out filters, plugs etc. Just from my experience of working on the car for 20 years.
Do you remove the valve covers to replace gaskets, seals? Do you perform a cam timing job on a 355 with a degree wheel? How many hours to change the coolant hoses at the radiators while engine is out? And the engine mounts? And that water pump rebuild? What if you have to replace that shorty oil hose at the side of the oil tank? You don't employ a helper when the lump goes in and goes out (safer that way). It's never just engine out, timing belts, and engine in.
