Questions for AC people

I did mine in 2015 with the help of these guys https://www.acparts.com/ on my '85 Euro GTB. I wanted to keep it as close to stock looking as possible while still functioning. The original compressor was a Sankyo 507. Sankyo has since been absorbed by Sanden and the 507 line, made specifically for R12 has been discontinued. The Sanden R134 replacement is the SD5H11 with five pistons displacing 108cc/rev. In the same form factor I got a SD7H13 with seven pistons displacing 129cc/rev. Sanden claims seven pistons offer smoother running, and the increased displacement offers additional capacity (though only helpful if the rest of the system can support it). Maybe an improvement in and of itself, maybe not. I also replaced everything: hoses, receiver/drier, and expansion valve. I took the condenser and evaporator to a radiator shop and had them hot tanked, boiled out, whatever you want to call it. Ricky at acparts rebuilt my original clutch and pulley and attached it to my new 7H13. I took the evaporator case apart and cleaned it thoroughly and sourced a replacement Bosch blower motor. The original pn was no longer available but I was able to identify an identical Bosch unit. When I put the evaporator back together I made sure everything was sealed up tight, to include the PITA seal where the evaporator goes through the firewall. I evacuated the system and charged it properly. I did some performance testing when I first finished it but don't have the numbers handy. What I will say is I went from having a sweaty back after a good drive on a warm day to cruising comfortably. I will not say the performance matches that of modern vehicles, and maybe I would be unhappy with it if I drove the car every day in the summer. But I don't: my all in cost was less than $1500.00, the sticker on the compressor and 134 service ports are the only indicators it isn't original, it works, and I'm happy. She is still put away for the winter, but when I get her out I'll back this up with some temperature data.

Cheers,
-seth

 

Real mechanics must come here for comedy hour.

 

The Factory installation of the Sanden used 4 brackets plus a sliding threaded adjuster.
This is likely of no help because they wont be available but here is a picture of the installation from the rear and the front bracket which contains the adjuster.


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When I did mine a few years ago, (the thread is here somewhere) I did it completely stock and it performs just fine the way it is. I did use R12 only because my dad had 20lb container in his shed. I just redid the system in my MBZ and used R152a (Dust-Off Compressed Gas Duster - 12pack and Costco for $40). This is by far better than 134 and will be going in the Ferrari when this system gets redone.

 

NOT at all. Your issue is mechanical known HVAC with known diagnosis and repair pathway. Your earlier posts and those of a couple of posters provided your answers and you are following up. There is other nonsense here too.

 

Mitchell,
Mine's a euro so it came with Sanden mounts. Looks just like the apparatus Andy posted pictures of; that metal bracket and a couple of aluminum ones. Had the steel one and the bolts replated while I had it apart as well so it is all nice and shiny like that. The link I posted does have a section of York to Sanden adapters you can pick up a la carte, though they will not be original of course.
Cheers,
-seth

 

Mine has some sort of homemade bracket, without any tensioner bolt. Compressor works, but getting the belt tight is a 2-person adventure.

 

Mitchell,
If you want to do what I did the Sanden number is 4465, but it doesn't quite work out of the box. The back head, were the hoses connect, needs to be changed to a "CB" head. I also reused my original single groove pulley, all the new ones have two grooves. Not sure on the brackets since mine came with a Sanden to begin with. I'd get in touch with Rickey at acparts.com and talk it over, you may be able to reference my invoice number, 2276, to refresh his memory (though it is from June '15). He did all my stuff for me and was very knowledgeable. I'm looking at my invoice now and there is no phone number listed else I'd share. If you PM me your email I'll send you a copy.
Cheers,
-seth

 

I know this is a very old thread but I’m working on my AC and wanted to try doing the upgrade to the trinary switch instead of the old T fitting. Do you have a part number of the switch you used? I’m using the four seasons 33444 dryer. So I’m not sure if it has the spare port for the switch or not. I’m guessing for wiring you connected the wires from the old low pressure switch to the trinary switch and then bypassed the old high pressure switch? My system had been left open for years by a previous owner, so I want to replace nearly everything and the old high and low switches seem too difficult to source.

 

Why the Trinary switch, your fan not turns on?

 

Not sure if I understand your question. I'm under the impression that you want to replace the old High/Low #6 hose union. If that is correct than this part replaces it and all you need to do is disconnect the wires from the old low pressure switch and plug them in to the new switch. Do not remove the high pressure switch but you can cut the hose going to it. The new switch does both High and low safety cut off.

Safety- Pressure Switch Kit w/ inline T-Fitting by Restomod Air

 

Thanks! That is exactly what I needed actually! I thought the trinity could be nice to control the fans with AC pressure instead of simply on and off with the AC but this does what I needed actually to remove the old T fitting with the two switches. So if I add this I don’t need to bypass the old high pressure switch? Simply leave it alone? My goal for the early summer is to get the AC going. Someone in the past had cut off the lines at the compressor and the system has been open for years. So I plan to flush the condenser and evaporator and then replace absolutely everything else as I simply don’t trust it. I already have new lines running through the rocker panel, so that should be the hardest part. Now it’s these little things and trying to decide if I should use R134A or one of these propane based R12 replacements. The propane based stuff scared me a bit with the compressor sitting right over the exhaust crossover. I’m worried a leak could result in a very unpleasant situation. But I also know R134A simply isn’t as good.

 

You want the binary switch; one for High and one for Low

The trinary has a third action that when High is trip then 12V goes to the device you choose, usually fans.

Trinary will not make any problem if u use it as the binary one

 

the trinary switch will replace the old high and low switch so you need to jump those switch around

 

Leave the high pressure switch alone. with no pressure it will never turn off the compressor. The new high/low switch will take care of that. If you disconnect the high pressure switch the circuit won't be completed and the compressor won't turn on.

Do not go to R134 unless you change the compressor out for a rotary compressor that is designed for R134. Here is a kit for going to R134.
115776RRK A/C compressor retrofit kit with brackets - G.T. CAR PARTS INC

 

Thanks guys! You are always such a wealth of knowledge! Every time I go to a FCA event I consider srr were losing the car as I can’t stand the snootiness of some of the new F car guys. But everyone I come back on here I remember how great of a community we have with the 308s. Thanks as always for the help!

 

$1200.

 

The Dino AC has the same concept, this video makes it a serial path so that if 12v can travel passed all points then the clutch will get 12v. If any point fails to pass 12v throgh then the clutch does not get the 12v


His point to leave teh old high pressure in place because it is most convenient and practical but is now trivial because it will never see high and old high pressure switch will always pass 12v to downstream.You are right that it seems odd to leave old one in place as redundant but is now a trivial part. Your risk is sp small from two connectors though
Also, the binary switch now does all the safety checks .

Technically it would be most clean to remove old high and low and replace with the binary in the video but you most identify all the wires and track them down. His method is so simple if you do not want to do the wire work

There is a new dryer that the binary switch will fit on and you can eliminate all the old high and low pressure switchs BUT you must know the wires
https://coldhose.com/products/motorhome-rv-ac-receiver-drier-1?variant=42562267218175

 

I swapped mine with a new switch. It's not difficult to do, you just have to figure out which wires are redundant.