This was last night's project. Needs a few tweaks. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Check the comment section of your link. He actually re-modeled it from the 3D scan. https://grabcad.com/library/part-65409000-car-stereo-plate-1
Here is one a German company was working on prior to this thread. They have a prototype made yesterday. SLS printing. Nylon material. Painted black. Rough surface texture. Can install as is or you can send out to have refinished by refinisher of your choice. This one won’t be free though. Will be closer to $300. A small run of 20 will be made. Contact me if interested. My impression is the 3D printed options will require sanding, primering, sanding, and an application of the black surface coat of your choice. If one wants perfection, should probably finish the gauge bezel around it at the same time for a match. The original Ferrari bezel is injection molded with a smooth surface and comes with Ferrari’s black soft touch coating, so the black color is accurate. As long as it doesn’t flash off, one doesn’t fiddle/touch it often, it should maintain its appearance. Still worth well over $100 to my eyes… especially a brand new one . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Most, if not all of the 90’s period Sony headunits will work with the bezel. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Beautiful! Do you have that in hand? It's great to see these available so folks have options to put their cars together.
I did ask earlier who was interested in getting a few printed . John did some re-work to the scan and successfully printed from FDM, so all is good. Just a waiting game. I actually needed 3 trims in total as I have 2 355’s. I need a trim to include with my Sony headunit sale, and 2 more for each of my cars. I will buy the German radio plate, so I’ll probably have all 3 options to compare. Original, 3d printed (Rick’s project), and German 3d print. I plan to go with a period Sony CD headunit as I realized I cannot run the Sony CD changer in the usual hidden compartment in a 95 355. Hence, the reason my original Ferrari/Sony setup is for sale.
So John sent me 2 samples. One which is somewhat sanded and primed. One in raw printed form. I have my original trim in a box in storage. Will compare when I get the chance to pull it out. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The sanded one looks pretty good... John did an excellent job with his model. I'm working to sand and prime one I printed in ASA. I haven't tried to figure out what paint to use yet. Will be interested to see what you go with.
Here’s a view of an original trim from the side. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Reason I posted pics above is to show the bottom round corners are still seen from the side. The ones John printed have some weird flattening of the corners. Not smooth or defined. Probably the way it is printed. You sort of have to shape a corner with bondo if you want nice smooth curvature. I know body work, so this is a non issue for me, but it’ll still take me a few hours to sand, fill, prime, sand smooth before spraying a final finishing coat. My opinion is any sticky refinishing place wouldn’t touch this unless you gave them a smooth part ready to paint. Great option for someone who has time to prep this and knows some bodywork. An option is better than none. I will wait for the German version to compare, but just off pics, I think it’ll be better than this. A better solution for most who don’t want to invest time in prep work.
A finished and ready to go option will always be best for most if it's priced right and good quality. Hopefully soon we'll have multiple options. I'd always prefer an injection molded part over a printed one and if the German one had been available I wouldn't have even started this. The corners on mine were not perfect because I didn't model the radius at well as John did and will require a touch of sanding. They're likely flattened on the bottom of the one you got because of how it was printed. John's model has the corners correctly rendered and when I printed them in FDM I fully supported the print and the contour was preserved. When I printed them in resin that's not an issue so they also turned out correct. Still have to sand and finish them regardless, but didn't require building anything up. I talked to Dave at Sticky RX and he will only do OEM parts, so that's not an option regardless of how nice you prep it. I didn't check with anyone else because 1) I already have a good OEM part and don't personally need to drive this further than I already have, and 2) if you're willing/able to print a part you should be able to figure out how to get a suitable finish.
If somebody is sending Dave a bunch of parts from their interior and sends him this trim prepped and ready to go, chances are you can convince him to do it, as long as you’re ok with him not guaranteeing the work on this piece. If someone is just sending him this piece alone, probably not worth his time. Probably doesn’t want to guarantee results on a part which isn’t OE. That’s not to say other sticky vendors won’t give it a go. Perhaps your pieces are better, but judging from the piece I got, I don’t see sticky vendors too interested unless you sent them one fairly prepped or they were charging alot higher prices to prep it for you. Personally, I would prep this up nicely before sending it off.
I forgot to add the trim fits nice and snug. Good tight fit. Clips into place perfectly. Clips are nice and strong, probably as good as original.
Just found this thread- amazing work gents! I'm doing this kind of stuff all the time. Below are some photos I made to reproduce the centre gauge pod for manual conversions (excuse the green plastic - special offer with Amazon - just for testing, even though you cant actually see it when fitted ) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login By the way, if you want smoothness and strength, go with nylon SLS, but opt for vapour smoothing. It does add to the cost, but it uses a special acid vapour in a heated chamber, and effectively melts the top surface into a sealed smooth finish. Not only does this make the part stronger, but you get rid of most of the surface roughness. SLA is smoother yet, but its really brittle, and even the higher temp resins cant manage that much heat.
That's great! Glad to hear there are other members on here with a similar mindset. I'm a former automotive engineer, current F355 owner and trying to track down the full manual conversion parts list seems like it may be a lot harder than it seems. I was able to buy some, model some, but I'm still missing a few of the big ones. We should combine forces with @brogenville and build a CAD library.
@brogenville @Tom_Z If you guys want to collaborate on the manual conversion, I'd be down. I have just about every part except the shifter control box (#154771). I've been hunting for months but they're not coming up. If I could lay hands on one for a 3d scan, it would be game over. I have modeled a prototype control box based on the parts I have and the car. I haven't fitted it in my car yet, but Im sure it's pretty close to working. You can see the current state of it in this video: I do need to make the center instrument cluster that @brogenville has made... it's in my work queue. I was planning to make a flex PCB but the way you've wired it works fine, too.
