Thanks for that info - I was wondering if its an error in Ferrari manuals - and it is!
Hi - spent half an hour changing all the small fuses to the more modern type where the soft top fuses are (after carefully checking them for continuity) as you suggested, and removed and tested the roof hydraulic pump relay. All checked out OK. Grateful if you can recommend a code scanner that will see all the roof micro switches and ECU’s etc to try and find the problem.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Make sure your engine lid is closed (check dash for no lid warning light). Here is the full logic for pump operation (roof opening): Step 1: Vehicle speed <5kph, battery power ok, engine lid closed, pump temperature <95C Step 2: Push roof down button. This will send a signal to the Window ECU to lower the windows. When the windows are completely lowered, step 3 begins. Window position switches must be functioning and the Window ECU must be powered (fuses PSF3 & PSF7). Step 3: The small flaps (near the roll bars) are momentarily powered to ensure they are the down position. Before you order a scanner, maybe you could check the roof switch on the console with an ohmmeter. If the switch is getting power, the roof switch should be illuminated.
Hope they were quality fuses. The boxes of hundreds of fuses you see on eBay/Amazon are not good quality and have unreliable melting points.... so I've been told (by YouTubers).
I have the same exact issue with my 2007 430 and tried these same fixes.Hard to explain but the problem is disguised by the strange effects of stopping the switch in the middle of opening. This makes it have odd issues that made the problem hard to understand. It was the pin that guides last hatch from closing. They are thick about 3 ins (10 CM) long on each side near the outside. It was bent a bit in the past so I bent it inwards and issue stopped. A new pin is about $120 but the problem seemed solved by bending it inward. Why it makes the lid stop halfway isnt clear. I can post a pic if you like. I plan to sell the car for $105K so I have a lot of pics. It is a CPO.
Many thanks for info Danedingerson Question - my roof appears to be locked closed - how do I release it to gently fold the soft top back to check anything?
I haven't got a code reader that picks up the roof microswitches or ECU's - can you recommend one that's not crazy price that can see what's causing an issue?
If I can fold back the roof part way I will check the pins to see if problem - grateful if can post pictures
Apart from the dead roof, the windows don't drop when open either door (not always) and the central locking is not working from the key fob any more plus when press the key fob the lights flash but central locking does not work. Same with unlocking with key fob. Makes me think it's the doors ECU which is probably linked to alarm is faulty and this talks to roof ECU and says "windows haven't dropped so I won't operate roof hydraulic pump etc" and so roof does nothing? Need a code reader - help!
As I said in post #2, the Window ECU is the brains of the window/door system and communicates with the Alarm ECU. I would at least try resetting the plugs on the Window ECU. If the Window ECU is not getting the right signals from the window position microswitches in the doors, perhaps it may also be stopping doorlocking and roof operation. Maybe ask other 430 owners if their doors lock with the windows down? You can check the functioning of the window (down) position microswitches with wiring checks from the plugs on the Window ECU.
Hmmm.. .I'm not sure if you can access the Window ECU plugs without disassembling the dash... Image Unavailable, Please Login Also, I don't know if the Window ECU is on the driver's side on a RHD car. It may be best to wait for the scanner. That should tell you if the correct signals are coming from the Window ECU (to the Roof ECU). If the plugs are easy to get to on the Window ECU, here are the pins to check... Image Unavailable, Please Login Compare the left and right door signals with the windows up/down. Plug identification is shown in this photo (on a LHD car) Image Unavailable, Please Login Plug C is the smaller plug of the lower two plugs.
Very many thanks for all the great help. I’m hoping the code scanner gets delivered tomorrow (Thursday) or Friday UK and I will post any code reads for your excellent thoughts. Should I disconnect the battery saver before using the code reader?
Ian ( Qavion) is awesome - a great asset to this community when it comes to electrically wiring / circuits of our cars To answer your question - no need to disconnect of course unless you are looking at certain voltages etc - something that the saver may throw off
Unfortunately, I sometimes focus on wiring too much for diagnosis purposes … and forget what these new fangled scanners can tell us.
Scanner has been delivered. Just went over to garage and tried to read codes but it seems to want to be connected to the internet via my iPhone so I will need to clear the garage access and get the car near the house to get some codes read. Annoying no signal on my phone
Got the car in range of internet and using the Autel P200 I’ve plugged in to the port and gone into Ferrari module which I have downloaded - it’s now asking me which model of Ferrari. See picture Anyone know which is best to use - My car is F430 f1 Spider 2008. Thought best to check with you very knowledgeable people on Ferrari Chat just to make sure I don’t mess up by selecting the wrong model! Thanks