2007 Ferrari F430 for 40K | Page 5 | FerrariChat

2007 Ferrari F430 for 40K

Discussion in '360/430' started by jdfenn, Mar 31, 2025.

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  1. XselR8

    XselR8 Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 16, 2020
    66
    renton, wa
    Full Name:
    brian
    Hope the crank sensor comes in today. :)
     
  2. jdfenn

    jdfenn Karting

    Jan 28, 2022
    74
    Full Name:
    Jeff Fenn
  3. jdfenn

    jdfenn Karting

    Jan 28, 2022
    74
    Full Name:
    Jeff Fenn
    SHE'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I just want to thank each and everyone of you for you help on this. Especially Qavion, thanks so much man.

    Now getting her all tuned up is the next step. Seems like I need to change the F1 fluid and do a good bleed there, the F1 pump is running every 30seconds or so and I know that can't be right.

    I also got a catalytic converter over temp code after I let it get up to temp. Ill have to investigate that one.

    Other than that she runs and drives pretty dang good. I only took it for a quick lap but shifts and drives like a dream.

    Thanks again.
     
    oc23, jerbear27, Highlow and 3 others like this.
  4. XselR8

    XselR8 Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 16, 2020
    66
    renton, wa
    Full Name:
    brian
    Dood....Nice Job!!!!!!
     
  5. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    13,837
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
    Actually, I think I was more a hindrance than a help. I should have guessed the issue from your first message, but we got distracted by cam sensors and immobilisers :p

    At least we all learned something.

    Flash should be able to help you with your F1 issue.

    If you can identify which bank is throwing your cat overtemp, maybe try swapping your thermocouple ECUs. Technistra make some good aftermarket versions.
     
  6. GogglesPisano

    GogglesPisano F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 13, 2022
    2,967
    East Bay, California
    Full Name:
    Joe
    Nice! Score of the century right here. Enjoy getting the last bit sorted.
     
  7. Pete Schweaty

    Pete Schweaty Formula Junior

    May 21, 2014
    264
    Great Job! Deal of the century!
     
  8. EWR

    EWR Rookie

    Oct 18, 2020
    16
    Lowcountry SC
    Full Name:
    William
    Well done!
     
  9. swc5150

    swc5150 Formula Junior
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jan 5, 2021
    696
    Wisconsin
    Full Name:
    Scott Calderwood
    Wow what a great outcome!! Congrats on the deal of the century!
     
    crinoid likes this.
  10. Mario Andretti

    Mario Andretti Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 9, 2020
    1,745
    Boston
    I also got that code when I bought mine, and it was one of the thermocouples; left bank for me. I suggest you change the accumulator too, it will (most likely) help with keeping the pressure longer and reduce pump fatique.

    the Thinkdiag device (100 bucks on amazon) can help with bleeding the F1 , changing the fluid. .... good luck!
     
  11. jdfenn

    jdfenn Karting

    Jan 28, 2022
    74
    Full Name:
    Jeff Fenn
    Took her for another quick loop this morning and noticed a few things I could use a little more help with. I am grateful for all the help I have gotten so far but now I am on a mission to get this old girl sorted.

    1. I originally thought it seemed like the F1 pump was coming on too much and when the engine is running that is certainly true. I went ahead and drained the old fluid and put in new and then rand the bleed cycle several times while topping off the fluid with the bleed nipple on the right side of the motor. Now when the car ignition is on and I select gear up the F1 pump pumps for an extended period of time, a slow down light comes on and the F1 symbol illuminates briefly. The slow down light does go away. I feel like I introduced air into the system and made it worse. Is there a second area I have to bleed or is there a secondary procedure I need to go through?

    2. The catalytic converter over temp reading seems to be somewhat wonky. The right side is reading -50 degrees C and the left side is reading 200+ degrees C. Pretty sure neither of these are right as an external temp reader is reading them both at 175ish degrees. Where are those silly thermocouples. I am assuming they are under the air box and under the heat shield???

    3. Upon driving the car I got one last code that popped up that was failure to communicate with NFR that came along with a suspension light with two triangles undernieth. I suspect this may be batter related as I have tinkered with this poor thing on the same battery a ton. Charging the batter slowly now to see if that helps.

    Thanks again guys.

    Jeff
     
  12. Mario Andretti

    Mario Andretti Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 9, 2020
    1,745
    Boston
    Qavion likes this.
  13. Mario Andretti

    Mario Andretti Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 9, 2020
    1,745
    Boston
    Fully charge battery and try the f1 shifting again with engine off... it's wonky without proper power
     
  14. DutchFerrari

    DutchFerrari Formula Junior

    Apr 7, 2022
    729
    Bollenstreek - Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Jeroen
    Easy fix so to read, seems like the steal of the century you got on your hands! Congrats!
     
  15. Pete Schweaty

    Pete Schweaty Formula Junior

    May 21, 2014
    264
    If you are having F1 problems hit up @flash32 . He is extremely helpful and knows more than just about anyone on the planet about the F1 system.
     
    flash32 likes this.
  16. WantaF430

    WantaF430 Karting

    May 10, 2023
    151
    Fort Worth
    Full Name:
    Joseph (Joe)
    As far as number 3,
    I get those codes also, most likely from battery. So I would clear and ignore them after some driving.
    If I am understanding you correctly, the logo with the triangles under the tires is actually from the TPMS system needing to be reset. There’s a hidden button below the dash on left hand side on 2007. hold that down for a while with key on, but engine off. It will flash on the dash and then you can go drive to reset the TPMS.

    Hope that helps some. congrats on everything else.
     
  17. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    13,837
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
    The WSM says that warning light is for the Suspension (Skyhook) System. TPMS warnings show a tyre profile with an exclamation mark in it (similar to the logo on the TPMS button)

    Sorry, disregard my comment on the thermocouple ECUs (brain fart.. I was thinking 360)
     
  18. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    13,837
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
    NFR is the brake module. What was the actual fault on the scanner. Was something not getting ABS/ASR data... or was the ABS/ASR system reporting that it wasn't getting data from something?

    Anyway... battery recharge first.
     
  19. jdfenn

    jdfenn Karting

    Jan 28, 2022
    74
    Full Name:
    Jeff Fenn
    Here’s a little video of her running
    Got the battery fully charged and suspension error went away, that was an easy one.
     
    Qavion likes this.
  20. jdfenn

    jdfenn Karting

    Jan 28, 2022
    74
    Full Name:
    Jeff Fenn
    Charged the battery to 100% and this one seems to have gone away,

    Now if I could just get the darn thing to go into gear.
     
  21. WantaF430

    WantaF430 Karting

    May 10, 2023
    151
    Fort Worth
    Full Name:
    Joseph (Joe)
    Good deal. A gated conversion should take care of that part.
     
  22. jdfenn

    jdfenn Karting

    Jan 28, 2022
    74
    Full Name:
    Jeff Fenn
    @flash32 I hear your the guy to reach out to when it comes to the F1 system on these cars.

    After I first got the engine running and I took the car on a little spin and it ran fine. Then this morning I took it on a very short loop again and it ran and shifted fine. Then ended up giving me a slow down light and would not shift out of neutral. Now the car starts and runs great but it still has something a little funny going on.

    When I first start the car it stumbles a little and gives me a slow down light. Then it seems as though something kills the engine.

    Then if i start it right back up it runs and idles perfectly with no slow down light and it will idle for as long as I leave it.

    This morning I had a low battery and was getting a suspension cam bus error but I charged the battery to 100% and that seems to have gone away.

    Now for some reason or another the car wont go into 1st gear.

    I thought it might be air in the system so did the bleed procedure on the right side of the engine a couple times. I did find a very small leak right at the main hose going into the bleeder manifold.

    That did not seem to help.

    When the car is running the F1 pump seems to kick on about every 2 minutes.

    Both when the car is off and the car is running if I try to shift to 1st you can hear the pump and you can hear the shifting mechanism trying to move the actuator into place. But it just doesnt seem to take.

    Could the code from the catalytic converters be keeping it from going into gear. I would think so?

    Do you know what the normal pressure should be in the F1 system. Mine is around 530.

    Thanks in advance for your and everyone elses help.
     
  23. jdfenn

    jdfenn Karting

    Jan 28, 2022
    74
    Full Name:
    Jeff Fenn
    I was just thinking that same thing
     
    Mario Andretti and WantaF430 like this.
  24. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2015
    13,837
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Ian Riddell
    Are we talking about an amber SLOW DOWN light (eDiff) or a red one (exhaust)?
     
  25. jdfenn

    jdfenn Karting

    Jan 28, 2022
    74
    Full Name:
    Jeff Fenn
    Red one
     

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