It seems to me the controls on the steering wheel are activating the actuators to shift but perhaps the clutch is not engaging to allow the gear change.
I was on the phone with Jeff for a while .. we did a complete diag of the TCU and have a plan of attack but unfortunately we need a more capable tool to continue We will pick up Monday or Tuesday after tool arrives and go from there .. rest assured we will report back with what the issue(s) was and final resolution This is for the F1 issue he mentioned above - no shifting We also spoke about CAT temp fault - I think something is going on with comm between the two ECUs and he ends up running on one bank. This floods the CAT with fuel and when he fires up the second time it causes the issue - i ask him to try to wait a few minutes after he turns key to see if that resolves issue - if it does, it may be the IMMO off coding causing the issue - TBD still
Huge thanks to @flash32 for hopping on the phone for almost an hour yesterday to walk me through step by step on how to get the car in gear yesterday. Here is the best recap I can make for what we did. 1. First, the car would start initially and run slightly rough then give a slow down light and then turn off. (we believe this is what is throwing the Catalytic converter error) 2. Then the car would immediately restart and run and idle smoothly with no slow down light. 3. Flash startred by discovering what model transmission I had which was helpful when using the diagnostic tool. Turns out I was looking at the older model the entire time. 4. Next we went though a variety of metrics looking to see the current values and comparing those to normal. 5. These values were all discovered in the live data of the TCU. 6. The key metrics we checked, to the best of my memory, were Hydraulic pressure, F1 pump re-pressure time, and then dwell time - the amount of time the F1 system held pressure. Ill post my actual numbers in a follow up post so other members have something to compare theirs to. We also checked centering, clutch wear, and several other things. 7. Then we moved on to doing the actuator calibration active test and the differential bleed active test. 8. We checked the pressure during and after each of these tests to make sure they seemed ok. 9. Then we used the manual gear engagment for 1st, 2nd, and Reverse gears. 10. At first the car did not want to go into first but is slid into second. Then it went into reverse. Then it went into first. 11. Then we tried it with the car running and used the paddles and the reverse button. Each of the gears were selected and the car went into first, second, and reverse with the paddles and the button as normal. 12. My Autel scanner does not have the ability to do a relearn so I ordered the Thinkdiag2 and and android tablet to pull the function off. 13. We were also able to determine that my accumilator was a little week and only holing pressure for 4min. I ordered a new accumilator. A couple side notes 1. We believe that during the initial drive the car went into a limp mode of sorts. Then I tried to bleed the F1 system and the selenoids which further confused the actuators and shifting system. Essentially taking one issue and making it two. The plan is to relearn the transimission and the ediff and then tackle the catalytic converter over temp. Flash believes that as part of the immobilizer defeat they could have created a system that doesn't let the engine check complete before the Engine OK light is displayed and then I am trying to start the car early. This results in a bunch of raw fuel being dumped into the cat an igniting which is causing them to overheat and turn the car off, then placing the car in a limp mode. We are going to try to let the ECUs fully startup and warm up giving them a full 2 minutes to get spinning and then try to start. Hope this helps anyone else in search of solutions. Jeff
Jeff ..great recap Just a few small corrections / clarifications ****Flash started by discovering what model transmission I had which was helpful when using the diagnostic tool. Turns out I was looking at the older model the entire time... This is reversed ..you were using the newer version 3.01 and should be using 2.31 ***The plan is to relearn the transimission and the ediff and then tackle the catalytic converter over temp They should say the plan is to do self relearn on the transmission/gearbox and retest the Ediff solenoid.. most likely needs to be replaced then tackle the catalytic converter overtime *****. Then I tried to bleed the F1 system and the solenoids which further confused the actuators and shifting system. Essentially taking one issue and making it two When Jeff removed the actuator to do a proper bleed the shifting grid was distributed and further compunded the issue .. a self relearn should fix that We will report back how the self relearn and e-diff test goes .. Thanks Dominick
Sunday update, Did a couple very simple tests to investigate the Cat Temp High error coming across immediately after startup. Started the engine, it threw the cat over temp code, displayed a slow down light and killed the engine. Restarted the engine and it ran fine and smooth. Le the engine get up to temp and measured the cats with and external thermometer and they were both at 510 degrees. Launched my scan tool and went live data in right engine and in the left engine the CGT - calculated exhaust gas temperature was -25degrees C and the Catalyst temp on both sides was -50degrees C. Neither of these values changed at all during warm up. Does anyone know how the 2007 F430 actually reads the temps. It must be through some sort of emission system or it is an equation of some sort? Could it possibly be the Co2 sensors being bad, or perhaps they are just unplugged somewhere? I don't think the 2007 f430 has the exhaust ECU like the 360 but maybe I am wrong. thanks again guys Jeff
Yeah a couple different times and it acted the same. I even waited a full 2:30 one of the times and it didn't make a differance. I went ahead and traced back O2 sensor wires and one was missing a clip but seemed to be plugged in fine. I replaced the retainer clip.
I don't recall when the thermocouple was removed from the f430 ..2006 or 2008 You can always switch sides or even the wires if it reaches and see if makes a difference
Check the assembly number.... See my post 112. Thermocouples are there up to ass. no 67970 (check the plate on the beam behind the exhaust muffler) . Or just look at the headers, you will have some nice O2 sensor like thingies poking out of them if you have them. EDIT: If you have them, I have no doubt they are the culprit. Mine did the same, shutting off the engine bank completely.
Just want to clarify a bit. The red slow down light comes on immediately after start on a cold engine. The cats are not hot and never over heat. I know that the co2 sensors don’t start sending data right away until the system enters a closed loop status. my question is, how does the car make a decision before that time? im assuming these are parameters programmed into the computers. can this programming be turned off? If so what type of programmer would you need? also, I know the mechanic that had the car before had switched the ecus, right for left, could this cause an issue like this?
One other though is if the car relies on maf sensor for early open loop calibration could it be a vacuum leak or intake leak causing the issue?
Late MY07 for US cars. Early 07 builds had physical temp sensors, late do not. There was corresponding ECU software change. If @jdfenn can post ECU part labels, I can probably verify.
The car can be updated from a thermocouple type to a no thermocouple type: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/146735054/ But it sounds like you don't have them anyway. Have older ECUs been fitted without the correct software update? No, the ECUs are identical. Although the L/R ECUs have some different functions, they know where they are when they are plugged in. The extra wire on the L ECU tells the ECU where it is.
Ok thanks, that rules that out. Mine does fall in the group without thermocouples. I’ll post pics of the ecus to make sure those look like the correct ones.
I’ll have all the tools today to relearn the Tran’s so hopefully flash and I can check that off this evening.
My question on programming was more on cat delete specifically. For example, when guys install cat deletes they must reprogram the computer in some way not to check the cat temp. If I’m planning to put on a full valvetronic exhaust with no cats, does it make since that the cat over temp error would go away with that change anyway???
YES, that is what I did. I installed Fabspeed headers (which have no cats) and I got my computers programmed by @sammyf. The aftermarket headers come with a plug where the thermocouple was (some of them) . I eliminated them completely and I got a bit more power too - with the new software and better flow - , and great sound when full throttle
But if you don't have thermocouples, I am not sure now what and how is that temp check performed... the ecus apparently have other means of checking the cats... maybe using O2 sensor values
