Do I need new pads?

I have a new set of pmb ceramic rear pads, received in Jan I'm not using. Cost $60, sell for $45 + shipping. Pm me if interested, for 308s

 

Pics are not good ...not clear .. need to see pads on both sides on the same wheel ..need to see metal backing parts and material

 

Hard to tell from the pictures how worn the brake pads are. Would think that if it were simply warn pads that the brake pedal travel might increase a bit, but should not feel soft or require pumping the pedal to firm up the feel. The handbrake should still work fine as it is a mechanical actuation versus hydraulic, and I believe works off a separate set of smaller pads. A soft pedal indicates a loss of braking pressure, possibly as a result of a leaking line/hose, a failing soft line that is ballooning under pressure, or perhaps a problem with the master cylinder. Have you checked for brake fluid leaks, including at the master cylinder? Not sure that a problem with the brake booster would create your symptoms; would think that a failed/failing booster would simply require more force on the brake pedal versus the need for pumping. The fact that you added only a tablespoon of brake fluid would imply that the level was not terribly low. Up until a couple of weeks ago was the brake pedal feel normal? Have you driven the car again since the episode of a couple weeks ago, and if so, how did it feel?

 

Maybe air in the lines. Try flushing the brake lines. You might go through an entire quart to properly purge.

 

If the brakes were working fine and then they weren't and now you have to pump them a couple times I would say it's one of two things.

You have an issue with your valve on the back holding pressure and/or allowing pressure through the valve.

If it's not that, it is likely your booster.

Is the pedal harder to push now? Or same effort?

If it's the same effort then check that valve. (you should be able to blow through it one way and not the other)

If that valve is ok then I would definitely check every caliper for some kind of fluid leak... should be easy to see if the leak is enough that you have to double-pump the brakes.

If it's none of that stuff... possibly you need a master cylinder rebuild.

 

My guess would be master cylinder seals are worn.
i assume brakes work well with immediate stop. However, holding down lightly will send pedal to floor and requires pumping to get pressure back.
Had same issue on mine and required new master cylinder. Has worked great since.

 

That makes no sense whatsoever.

 

I'll 2nd that.

 

Yeah 3rd, don't risk not having brakes, check out your braking system.

 

You should not be focused on replacing pads. There is a leak somewhere. If it's at a caliper or a connection, you should see it. If it's a leaky seal inside the master cylinder, there may not be obvious puddle on the ground. The fact that you're needing to add brake fluid makes me think there's a leaky caliper

 

@jpl Based on your pictures, the pads look fine to me. Even if the pads are highly worn, a new issue needing to "pump the brakes" would not be due to worn pads (maybe having to add fluid as the pads wear down for reservoir recovery, but not pumping)

If your brake booster or the check valve goes bad, this typically presents as a rock hard brake pedal... fully functional, but you have to stand on the brakes.

A leaking caliper (or line or hose) typically does just that: Leak... until the fluid is so low in the reservoir that you need to add fluid. THEN, pumping the brakes compresses a little air to improve braking.

Based on what you initially said and the recent improvement (or fix), my GUESS is that you have a master cylinder approaching "End of Life." My .02 based on what you stated above, and as always, YMMV.

 

High temperatues (weather/hard braking etc) will cause any water in the brake fluid to turn to steam - and subsequently require the pumping of the brake pedal you refer to.
As suggested above, I'd flush the system fully. It's the fluid between the master cylinder and the caliper that is the problem, topping up the master cylinder reservoir won't make any odds - unless it's empty!

 

I had a similar issue a few years back where the occasional stop required a second pump to build up correct brake pressure. It was not all the time and it started off as incredibly rare (to the point I thought I was imagining it) to more common but still happening. My system was well bled and it turns out that the master cylinder was going bad. A replacement of the master with a proper bench bleed and subsequent system bleed solved the problem.