Hi Guys: Does anyone know what the correct alternator junction box looks like for a "M" series 246GT? I am pretty sure that all models earlier than the "E" series did not have fuses in the junction box. I have a broken block in my parts supply and attached is a photo of it...is this the correct block part of the box? If so, I guess I am missing a cover. If anyone can send me a photo of the correct block, cover, and attachment nut I would be very appreciative as I am trying to get the right parts on my car...I already have a reproduction junction box with fuses that go on a later E series car. Image Unavailable, Please Login
This is the same junction box I have on my 1970 M series. No cover on my junction box either. You can just see it in the top right corner of the photo attached
Junction box on my 1971 M-series when work was done on the car in 2011. I do have a cover, but no decent photo showing cover. Will try to take one the next time I visit car. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes, same cover as what I have. And I love the `factory' precise cuts on the foam insulation board surrounding the junction box...
Hi Guys: Thanks a lot for the replies! This is good information that I have the correct block and I can at least reproduce the parts if I cannot find them for sale.
Doubt you can find any for sale but they are an excellent DIY project even for them without a 3D printer. The one below is made out of an old print board glued together with epoxy and plenty of hand grease. Best, Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Guys: Thanks for all the info and photos! Peter, if you can provide the dimensions of the openings for the wires of your cover, I can use your photos to determine the rest of the dimensions to make a cover just like yours...it looks very authentic.
Here you go. Note that my homemade lid is made from pictures and the actual connector base. Some one with a original lid might chime in with more correct measurements. Anyway it fits perfectly and have lasted 8 years of regular heat and vibrations. You might struggle to find a knob that appears like original. On my L-series the lid was gone but the knob still there Good luck with the project. Best, Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Peter: Thanks a lot for the sketch! With your sketch and photos (and my old block) I believe I can make an authentic looking junction box. I plan on modeling it in Solidworks CAD program and then sending the models (block, cover, thumbnut) to a 3D printer to have the parts made in nylon plastic. The thumbnut will have to have a theaded insert bonded into it with adhesive as a after-printing operation. Your thumbnut has the same detail design as the thumbnut on my car's thumbscrew on the electric windows fusebox...it is probably just a bit bigger as the nut is for a 5mm thread whereas the thumbscrew for the electric window fusebox is 4mm. Anyway, I will model all this in the next month or two and see how the printed parts come out...if satisfactory, I certainly will advise people (this post) where to get the parts made by 3D printing. I appreciate your willingness to share your solutions to problem parts and I would like to do the same to keep these cars alive and original. My car is s/n 01412 and a "M" Euro model which emigrated to USA. Just to beat this subject to death, my Scaglietti bodywork book lists the alternator junction block as Ferrari part number 591/400323...no indication of the original vendor though.
Hi Henry, If you have a spare cover when you have yours printed I would be interested in buying one from you
Hi Charles: I dont want to get into the business of selling parts to others, but I will certainly direct people to my supplier (who is reputable) if I can get a good quality part made. Stay tuned.
Hi Guys: I am in the process of having the plastic parts for the terminal box made right now using the 3D printing process...I will advise how this turns out when I get some parts. In the mean time, I have been thinking about this terminal box on the M series Dino...what is the purpose of the terminal box? It seems to me it has no purpose and actually can be a failure item. I do see that the later E series Dinos had a terminal box in the same location and it had 2 fuses for the the 2 wires coming off the alternator, so this later E series Dino alternator terminal box has a purpose. Maybe the 2 wires coming off the alternator to the terminal box on the M series car were originally fusible links. Does anyone have any knowledge about this? My mechanical parts book for my M series car shows the 2 wires are supplied with the alternator and do not have separate part numbers, so I suspect they may be fusible links. My electrical schematic diagram for M series car indicates that there are no fuses between the alternator and amp gauge and voltage regulator...so I am considering making these 2 wires between the alternator and terminal box to be fusible links if I can find the right wire. I want to retain the outwardly correct appearance of the car.
You are right to a certain extent. The box is nothing else than a simple coupling box between the generator and the fixed cable harness. The cable harness is basically left with no weak link (Fuses) between the front end of the car and the generator and will melt down and potentially set the car on fire if there is a short circuit to ground. I've therefor added a fuse box in my L series to prevent this. Best, Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Peter: I see you have used the E-series junction box with the 60 amp and 8 amp fuses for your car. I have this box as well, and will use it if I cannot find any 60 amp and 8 amp fusible links to go with my L/M -series junction box...I will advise.
I found, quite cheaply, a handful of NOS E-type fuse boxes on Ebay Italy a few years ago as well as the two part Dino trunk light switches that always break. They probably weren't used only on the Dino. Just need to use Google Translate and look at listings to get the search wording correct.
Hi Guys: My plan for my M-series Dino is to use fusible links in the 2 wires between the alternator and alternator junction box. I measure the heavy gauge red color wire as 2.5mm or 10.5 AWG. I measure the small gauge white color wire as 0.9mm or 18-20 AWG. For the red wire, I will use a 14 AWG fusible link wire about 5 inches (13cm) long butt spliced into the 2.5mm wire. For the white wire, I will use a 22 AWG fusible link wire about 5 inches (13cm) long butt spliced into the 0.9mm wire.
Hi Guys: My previous post about the measurements of my wires may be confusing concerning wire sizes. As a clarification, the red wire (heavy gauge) is 6.0mm*2 size per DIN ISO 6722. The white wire (small gauge) is 1.0mm*2 size per DIN ISO 6722. The AWG closest equivalent to the 6.0mm*2 size is 10AWG. The AWG closest equivalent to the 1.0mm*2 size is 18AWG. I plan on buying fusible links that correlate to the AWG sizes since I am not familiar with ISO or European standards for fusible links.
