Location of the coolant drain hole in the engine block? | FerrariChat

Location of the coolant drain hole in the engine block?

Discussion in '360/430' started by modificator, Jan 3, 2021.

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  1. modificator

    modificator Formula Junior
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    Apr 12, 2020
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    George
    Hello
    After spending a long time reading the coolant change threads I'm concerned that the generally recommended draining of half (or less) of coolant from radiators (followed by vacuum re-fill) may not be a best solution due to potential incompatibility of fluids (OAT/HOAT/IAT etc) - it's difficult to be sure about the type of fluid put in under the previous ownership.

    Even with multiple distilled water flushes, it would still be better to drain the block as well (I think). So where are the 2 drain holes in the engine block? One post says that the left side is easier to access and removes most of the fluid, so that would be a good place to start.

    Also is there a way to push-out the old fluid by pushing in the fresh one, similarly to pressure changing brake fluid? I can't think of any without thermostat removal, and removing the thermostat would probably be too much work comparing to just draining.
     
  2. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Jul 19, 2008
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    Affirmative, you can vacuum fill the cooling system, eliminating the need to bleed the system. Your tech should be able to show you his system for doing that or just look it it up on the internet.
     
  3. modificator

    modificator Formula Junior
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    Thanks, but all I have read so far (including Aldous Voice website, AirLift use etc) uses vacuum to add coolant after first draining half of it. Can vacuum be used to actually remove the coolant?

    If not, the original question still holds - how to drain the engine block? (or how to remove more than half of the coolant in any other way?)
     
  4. BrettC

    BrettC Formula 3

    Aug 13, 2012
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    I use my air compressor to fill the expansion tank, air blocked with a rag, and it pushes out probably another 1/2 gallon or so. I think I am getting maybe 2.75-3+ gallons out. Then I use an airlift tool to refill. First time full purge is a pain, I just kept flushing it with water as I haven't wanted to crack open the block seals. Sorry, can't help with those locations. HTH
     
  5. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Nov 29, 2001
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    Mitchell Le
    Remove the under panel
    Jack the car up (best with a lift)
    stand under the engine, look up at the SIDE of the block where Cyl 5 is, you will find a brass plug. It should fit an Allen socket, 5 or 6mm. Use a socket, not an Allen key and be careful not to strip the hole.

    There is a similar drain under Cylinder 1 position but you only need to drain just one. Get ready for a face full of coolant as more than 1 gallon will come out.
     
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  6. modificator

    modificator Formula Junior
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    Excellent! I have found it about 9 inches from the engine bottom, at cylinder #5 as you have said. Thanks!
     
  7. modificator

    modificator Formula Junior
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    #7 modificator, Jan 6, 2021
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2021
    A hose at radiator (#2) is still full of coolant after radiator draining, so draining radiator with the hoses at the water pump disconnected will drain more fluid. It seems hose #1 delivers coolant to the radiators (thermostat housing and the bleeding screw), hose #2 is the return from the radiators. Is it correct? What is the hose #3 and which way it flows? Is it to the cabin heater?

    I'm still looking for a way to power bleed close to 100% of the coolant in one step and need to understand all the hoses first.


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  8. AandSC

    AandSC Formula Junior
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    Did you try blowing fluid out using compressed air like BrettC recommended? I did that recently on my Mini and was surprised how much fluid came out using that method. Curious as I’ll be changing my 430’s coolant for the first time in April/May.
     
  9. modificator

    modificator Formula Junior
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    Not yet, Brett said it gives about 1/2 gallon, and there is still about 2.5 gallons left in the system after draining the radiators. So my thinking is that if I understand all the cooling hoses and which way they flow and which are restricted by thermostat, water pump, heater valve etc I can find a path (or paths) on the cold engine which would allow to push ALL the old coolant out by pushing distilled water in.

    And after only the distilled water comes out (all old coolant is out), we can drain the radiators again (half the water out) and vacuum feed a couple of gallons of new concentrated coolant in, and we are done.
     
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  10. modificator

    modificator Formula Junior
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    Alternatively to pushing water in, perhaps cranking the engine (water pump) with disabled ignition for a minute or so or putting an electric power drill on the water pump to rotate it, would allow the water pump to push the old fluid out.
     
  11. AandSC

    AandSC Formula Junior
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    Thanks for the response! Look forward to hearing your results and what works best.
     
  12. modificator

    modificator Formula Junior
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    BTW, hose #3 sends coolant to the front, where it goes through a small electric pump, cabin heater, heater valve and back to the engine through a T in hose #2.

    So there are 2 hoses going to the radiators, #1 blocked by thermostat, #3 blocked by the small electric pump in front. Return is by #2 and a bleeder hose going to the tank/nourice.

    Disconnecting #3 at the electric pump in front would be quick and easy. Pumping water into the tank (and potentially with 2 bleeder hoses disconnected at the tank) would flush the engine with the water coming out at #3 disconnection. 2 problems:

    1) Hose from the tank enters the engine near the water pump, close to the #3. Would the coolant from the tank actually go through the engine on the way to #3 or totally bypass the engine? (could it be fixed with the water pump running - cranking the engine and rotating coolant inside?)

    2) Relatively small diameter of #3 would make the process slow

    Does it make any sense?

    Or should we disconnect the #2 at the front of the car and let the water flow backwards out of it without using the water pump? After understanding all the external hoses now the question is how the coolant flows inside the engine.

    Thanks to @flash32 for a background support!
     
  13. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
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    Reviving an old thread. It's been 3 years and the I'm here again with swapping out the old coolant.
    George's posts above really gave me a better understanding of the purpose of the various hoses and how the coolant flows
    Thank you so much

    Previously, my method was the flushing many, many times (initially used by @Black360) until the water drains clear. Very time consuming, but then again I do it every 3 years. Btw, the bottles have a green color in the pic below.
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    As I now get older (and lazy-er??) I'm also looking for a better method, other than using the Airlift tool. I'm not too happy with collapsing the hoses during the fill. I read where a few Tech here said they always drain from the block (Drain Plug #200988). Those are now NLA so much care when removing/re-installing.
    I am not worried about damaging the block on install. I am very careful with processes like this.

    What method did you end up using George?
     
  14. modificator

    modificator Formula Junior
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    Hi Fred, I have not opened the Drain Plug. Just did some flushes, including disconnecting the front-back hoses at the lowest point of the car to drain.
     
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  15. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
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    #15 hessank, May 4, 2025 at 8:56 AM
    Last edited: May 4, 2025 at 9:10 AM
    Thanks for the feedback George. Much appreciated.
    Yeah, looks like I'm flushing on Tues.

    Flame suit on!
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    Full disclosure: I was thinking of purchasing a drain plug (found to be NLA) to establish the thread size in the hopes of matching it to a Valvomax oil drain plug. I had a pair of Fumoto oil drain valves installed on my Porsche 928 GT block for close to 10 years now and it made draining the coolant a breeze. I replaced them with the Valvomax style which I think is a better design. It would make draining the 360 block every 3 years so much easier Image Unavailable, Please Login

    P.S.: For those wanting to know, engine oil pressure is much greater than rad coolant pressure
     
  16. Black360

    Black360 Formula Junior

    Oct 11, 2010
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    Are you applying air pressure to the system to aid the flush?
     
  17. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
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    Yes, via a Motive Power Bleeder
     
  18. Black360

    Black360 Formula Junior

    Oct 11, 2010
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    Agree that the current procedure is a royal PITA. Bet that most would opt to just let the flush go into the ground water.

    BTW: I didn't want to mess with the drain plugs fearing that I'd cross-thread them or something.

    Bottom line: There's probably a better way, at least for those not as risk-adverse as me.
     
  19. BrettC

    BrettC Formula 3

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    change it every year at half flushed or so...never have an issue
     
  20. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Unless you have a lift, completely draining it and catching it with a bucket is not possible. With a lift, you remove the front-to-back coolant hoses, apply compressed air pressure to one pipe and flush out the coolant to the other pipe into a bucket.
    Drain the block to get the rest of the coolant out. The thread size is 14mm x 1.5mm, and there are plenty of other choices for a plug, including an Aston Martin oil drain plug (Aston Martin 4G43-04-10205 Sump Plug). That is a superior plug, longer thread engagement and built in rubber gasket.
     

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