Yellow Zinc Plating

Hey all:

I had to replace the clutch on my F355 which turned into a partial back half restoration. After looking at how bad some of the plated parts were, I looked into various options regarding services and/or re-plating yourself. There are kits out there that allow you to replate yellow zinc but it really seems like a ton of work and many hours of trial and error. They also were pretty expensive ($300 + many many hours of labor).

I looked around at various forums other than fchat (rennlist, etc.) and found a few recommendations for Sonic Plating in southern California. I sent them a batch of parts for yellow zinc plating with the most protective coating and brightener. Total weight was around 25 lbs. There is a minimum, charge of $159.50 for my order but that could increase if I exceeded the weight limitations for one batch to be barrel plated.

Anyway, I got them back and was blown away at how good they look. Immediately removed every single part I could take off that had some sort of zinc plating and stuffed it in a box, and removed parts from some other cars I have that have yellow zinc (87 TR, 1991 Alfa Spider), and sent another batch - this time 40 lbs. Still did not exceed the weight, so it was another $159.50.

They remove any previous coating and rust, but it the part is in really bad shape its best to run it under a grinder/polisher to smooth it out to get the best results. I really didn't take great before shots, which is my fault but I have a few here:


Here's the accelerator mechanism with the yellow zinc plating and the yellow zinc plated intake plates before:
Image Unavailable, Please Login

Here's after:

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

You can see some of the other bits I had done, yes some were not originally yellow Zinc but I liked the contrast of it and it makes the engine bay pop.

The control arm bolts and lower suspension forks came out absolutely amazing:

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

All of these are original and not new. Yes I know the bolts are not yellow zinc plated, again, just think it looks really nice.

I also removed all of the P-clamps and sent those for re-plating along with the rear bumper mounts, clutch bleed line and nipple, power steering pump banjo bolts, etc/ - another sample of the results:

Image Unavailable, Please Login

The band around the anti-evap canister was rather rusted, so I stripped the paint and had it plated. Gives a nice contrast that no one will see

Image Unavailable, Please Login

More images in the next post


Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

This is the essence of F-Chat… Pimping your car to perfection!

Kevin

 

Very nice! I did the same on many parts when I had my F355 apart for major service and exhaust build. It was done by a local chrome plating shop and pretty reasonable.

 

A few more shots of the details of the suspension bolts, which really don't pop with the factory coating:

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Pics of the alternator and top of the motor parts from my Alfa Spider to show the contrast. I didn't touch these at all, just threw them in a bag and sent them:

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Really surprised at how well those turned out as they were very rough.

I likely could have sent this entire batch at once for the $159.50, but even though I sent two sets, it was still less than one kit and, of course, not spending hours on plating all of this.

In the winter when I tear down my TR for an engine out, I'll be doing all its parts as well.

www.sonicplatinginc.com.

Todd

 

Wow! Too pretty to drive…

 

It has always been my feeling that the contrast is the most attractive part. It shows how much care was taken on assembly. When I see something all black I know it was just painted over. What a nice job you have done. it will look fabulous when done.

 

Yeah, it's amazing: You give them dirty fasteners and they come back clean - and coated!

 

Love it!

I'm restoring another typewriter and may need to look these guys up for plating.

Ray

 

Yes but. I'm reluctant to go the extra mile because of 2 issues. First is the ease of parts loss by the vendor and the level of difficulty of sourcing new parts. Sometimes that's easy and sometimes it isn't. One of the increases costs in restoration is the restorer knowing Bob the plater on a personal level knowing Bob's commitment to a project is like the restorer. You just can't send parts to anyone. But you have to start somewhere to develop trust. Second is not knowing what you don't know. When you Zinc plate hydrogen embrittlement is an issue. On a critical fastener like a 10.9 suspension bolt I want to make sure the vendor knows how to post treat that. Some would even go so far as mandating post treatment testing of critical fastener. Going for esthetics might get you in trouble. I would take no risk on my racecar but I might on a garage queen. Is hydrogen embrittlement from zinc plating an issue in this case? I have no clue. I only know enough to ask questions and too chicken to do it on critical fasteners.

 

Don't forget, the original plating was cad 2 yellow, not zinc, which is basically no longer available because of environmental issues. Totally different properties regarding hydrogen embitterment.
Gary Bobileff
Bobileff Motorcar Company in San Diego

 

Any zinc plated part can be given a yellow finish by dipping in a chromate solution. This is a DYI project. A chromate solution can be purchased from a brush plating vendor. Degrease the part, give it a light pass on a fine wire wheel, dip it in the chromate solution (wear rubber gloves), and rinse in warm water.

 

It really makes a huge difference
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I build choppers - or course the most popular hardware is chrome, but occasionally a black oxide.

Am currently disassembling a 77 shovel head and don’t have a firm decision on the design - think I’ll do Yellow Zinc now after seeing this thread - would be DIFFERENT, and that counts for a lot in the chopper world…

Props to the OP for this thread!

Kevin

 

How about nickel plating instead of chrome. It will develop a patina over time.

The Nickel Car - A Great American Hot Rod - **********.com

 

On a recent non Ferrari project I was able to replate all of the hardware used to assemble the vehicle. It was originally zinc and it looks great. On Ferraris I try to match the color and tone on any replate. Not always easy.

 

I know these. I will do this next with my TR, that looks amazing! Really freshens up the engine bay.

 

Ferrari use to put logos on the bolts?

 

Yes, I understand that the logo-embossed bolts can still be obtained from various parts sellers.

 

As a follow up to this thread, if you are replacing these P-clamps, many of the rubber liners have hardened and crumble in upon removal. While many of the smaller P-clamps are still available, I have found only one source for these rubber liners, which you will need for the larger P and circular clamps. My only source is www.iq-parts-shop.com, located in the Netherlands. For most of your clamps, you'll need the 15mm width. For fuel filter clamps and other larger width clamps, you'll need the 20mm. In case the site changes in the future, I won't provide a specific link which likely will be broken, but these are the keywords you will need to find it:

Norma Rubber protection EPDM C-Profile

I spent a lot of time looking for these rubber liners, and just received my order today. it fits perfectly, so these are what you will need to renew the p-clamp rubber.

Todd