328 GTS Camshaft Coupling

Try some of this Tech N. 464 stuff. Not sure, but you may need to drill the hole (after marking the position of the center of the dist rotor with the old stuff and then putting the the center of the distributor rotor in the same place with the new stuff). I believe 126166 replaced 129121 and then 133063 replaced 126166. PS "caulk" is a poor translation for "stake" (meaning to mechanically deform it to retain it).

 

Those instructions applied only to cam extensions that were initially supplied predrilled. They no longer are. It is best to carefully mark the cam indicating the direction rotor is pointing then remove cam and drill through new extension in a drill press to assure its being drilled straight. Put some sealant on the extension , drive in cam, install pin and peen over on both ends.

This job was intended to be a warranty repair so extensions were predrilled and tooling was supplied to enable installation without removing the cam so Ferrari could save money on the warranty claims. Its impractical with undrilled extensions to perform swap with installed cam.
I have done the job many times since those cars were still in warranty.

 

They quit drilling them in about 1988.

 

Actually Ferrari never made them drilled. Ferrari North America had them drilled at a local machine shop in New Jersey to reduce their cost for warranty claims. They quit doing that in about 1988.

 

As Rifledriver has already said, you do not want to try to remove the original pin with the camshaft still in the engine. The forces required to remove the old pin and rivet the new pin are extremely high (which is why Ferrari made the special tool to support the end of the camshaft). You also don't want to try to drill the camshaft/new extension in place.
Removal of the camshaft is easy to do, then you can deal with replacement of the extension on the bench without damaging the camshaft or the engine.

 

They were supplied with a drawing? I don't know this for sure, but one possible reason for omitting the hole is that that new coupling is used on different F models that have the cam hole in different locations/angular orientations = that can be why the instructions (page 4) indicate to do it in-situ. That way F only needs to make one new part for all the affected models (and could be that the pre-drilled ones were only for one particular F model). Just a thought...

 

Just curious. This job was being performed for Ferrari. How do you know they had no camshaft? Certainly they were available. Or jigs or detailed drawings? They were not left to just do it helter skelter.

Take the cam out.

That page of instructions was not from a manual. It was instructions for a recall or product campaign for use with tools and parts provided for that specific situation. Thats ancient history and none of that is supplied now.

 

No, they both go into the camshaft. I believe your original one is the (horrible) 2-piece design with a rubber vibration insulator, and you've left the outer steel sleeve portion of it in the camshaft end.

As I read the tea leaves, the "gold" one that you've received is 126166, and the round one in your post #1 photo is 133063.

 

The lower one in the first picture is part of an original version that looks as though someone got it hot to remove it and burned out the rubber leaving half in the cam.

Not sure what you are doing here. There is no easy, simple fix. The 133063 are still available and on the shelf. Buy 2, install them and be done with it.

Their presence should have been discovered at the due diligence phase of the purchase..

 

It would be virtually impossible to drill a hole in the new piece and have it line up perfectly with the existing holes in the cam IMO. You'll have to probably follow the instructions in that Tech Info N. 464 (either with the cam in the engine or with the cam removed from the engine) -- i.e., note the old rotor end position, install the new piece in cam to have the rotor end in about the same position, then drill roughing holes thru the existing holes in the cam from each side about 1/2 way thru from each side to quasi-meet in the middle of the new piece, and then finally enlarge the hole in a single drill pass all the way thru the cam and the new piece to the finished size for the final pin.

Were you ever able to get the missing piece of your old part out of the end of the cam?

 

Yes, I have done it many times. I do disagree with Steves method. I strongly suspect it would not result in a satisfactory outcome.
At this point I strongly suggest seeking help from someone familiar with the car and issue. Someone with experience.

You have already made it much more difficult by improperly removing the inner piece.

 

Remove cam, index rotor to cam, remove old extension, install new extension aligning with indexing marks, clamp in vise in drill press with hole perfectly vertical and drill.
Clean out cam, reinstall extension and pin peening pin in place. Reinstall cam.


Sorry, no secret but it is basic and elementary as can be. If this cannot be seen it should be entrusted to be performed by someone who does.

 

Don't think that it will take anything too exotic. Refer to Fig 1 in the Tech Info 464 -- just put something down the ID that can hook on to the backside surface and pull.

PS The distributor rotor does not control the timing, and the tip of the distributor rotor is wide enough that things don't need to be super-exact -- being within a few degrees (maybe even 5 degrees) will probably be A-OK.

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login On the 328 and QV's there's also this flavor. I've come across more commonly. Nonetheless, when I designed a new trigger for cam synch for our builds I had taken this dimensional data. Quick sketch, as I'm too lazy to go back to the office and dig up the CAD files.

Relationship between the rotor and the pin retaining is 32.5°. I don't recall if the depth to where the hole is is the same between styles, I e. How far along the shaft from the end is it located.

Honestly it's a very easy job once the camshaft is removed. That's really step one. Since the cams are hollow you can easily drive the rest of the bits out from the other end with an aluminum rod and light mallet. Double check the index and have the new part installed accordingly. Machine shop can easily drill in place.
Or use the info I've drawn, and have a machine shop index and drill.

There's no easy way to drill that part Insitu and I would highly caution against it.

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Cam is hollow. When sprocket bolt is removed you can drop a metal rod down the cam and tap it out with a hammer.