Upgraded syncros for 360s?

Too bad there isn't a company that makes good carbon fiber synchros for our cars.

 

Those would probably last about 20 minutes.

 

Over thinking again

 

Umm.. my car has over 70k miles, 15 years of ownership.. original syncros. They're fine if you don't abuse the car. Now if the shift mechanism alignment is off with a manual conversion, that's another story.

 

The thing is I would be looking or asking the bigger companies like getreg, quafie transmission people that do aftermarket hy performance transmission. And truly a fresh oem syco set and fresh rebuild of the diff would be the way to go. Whether you have low miles or high miles transmission parts can react differently on each person car. One car can go 100k miles or the next one can be gear whine or synco out at 16k. Hand built stuff and quality control in the early 2000s .

 

I have to chime in on this just in case it helps one of you out.

When I got my car, it harshly grinded every gear, going in and going out. Upshifts, downshifts, it all crunched LOUD and was very embarrassing. I tried changing and flushing and nothing.

Flash32 recommended trying Redline NS with friction modifier. I tried it. Now the car shifts like new! I now have 20K miles on the change and it runs great. There is slight tick going into third only if I go in at high speed and let off the gas at the wrong time during a shift, but that's it.

So, before drawing the conclusion of having to invest in a rebuild, try this fluid first. Many of the dealerships are defaulting to Mobil 1 LSD and that simply doesn't work with the brass syncros in the 360. The 599/612's are fine, not the 360.

 

IMHO and some limited experience the key to keeping the transmission syncros longer is proper fluid and proper fluid changes

If you get it rebuilt use a quality fluid made for these types of transmission..like Ravenol vsg..make sure to change based on your driving and environment
Keep all perfectly aligned and hope for no more hear exchanger issues

 

I have a similar experience as Mikey on my conversion and can tell you it's not the fluid or adjustments. I've turned the turnbuckles every which way in 1/4 turn increments and have found the dead center of the gears. If his is anything like mine, almost all the gears are smooth like butter, it's just that the 1-2 shift you get a slight detent feel. Obviously much harder when cold, but it never fully smooths out like the others unless you double clutch or shift slowly. You're not able to slam through the gears quickly as you are going up from 2. There are times when it is perfectly fine, but those are not the majority. I've gone through OEM, Redline, and Ravenol fluids just in case. It's not something that seems harsh or wrong, just subtle enough to notice that it's different and detracts for a perfect experience. My thinking is that 2nd gear synchro was hammered long enough with the F1 system that it's maybe noticeably worn when you switch to a full manual. I'm far from an expert here though.

 

Was that Redline 75W90NS GL4 + Friction Modifier?
I'm changing fluids now

I know 1 year ago he recommended Mobil 1 Syn Gear Oil (Post #4)
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/differential-lubricant.690234/#post-149561859

 

I recommend Mobil 1 for iron syncros ..like the 512tr etc 348 355


For the 430 and 360 I only recommend Ravenol vsg unless you having some noise with it

If syncros are almost gone and you are getting grinding nosie not from an adjustment.I recommend redline NS and add a little modifier at time ...

If your diff whines due to wear etc ..motul non ls is my recommendation

I hope I cleared that up

 

There is no such thing as Redline 75-90 NS GL4. 75-90 NS is in every case GL5. If you used GL4 in a 360 it would almost certainly be the end of the transmission.

 

Why? I have found Ravenol to be very unremarkable.

Mobile1 has been a very good oil on brass and iron syncros alike with Redline NS being a bit better by the experience of most .

 

Besides anyone who uses

Besides the anecdotal evidence of people saying that they like when they use it... how it feels etc ..(not scientific)
The Blackstone Lab reports show hardly any copper or metals in the oil after running it. (Few different cars and models ) ..whereas the others like Mobil 1 (which I use in my 512tr) show high copper when drained from the same car (360 or 430 )

There website also claims the same as the eni rotra lsx ..made for transaxles where both transmission and diff are in one unit and yellow metal safe

 

Dumb question, but are you sure it's the syncros and not the clutch hydraulics? When I hear grinding, the first thing I think of is when I start to get lazy don't fully press down the clutch pedal. Happened every once in awhile on my GT3 but that was user error. Not suggesting that it's user error but maybe the clutch isn't fully opening due to a bubble in the line and you're right on the edge of it being opened enough and not...so...when you're driving it quickly you aren't getting a fully open clutch.

 

Thank you for your intervention Brian.

I quickly cancelled my order and ordered the 75W90NS which is a GL5.
I get it

 

Exactly what i stated for you .. Redline NS

What i was referring to was the 75w-90 NS - it is a GL5 as Brian stated

But i only would recommend that for "issues" shifting etc

 

Ferrari does not make transmissions. They wanted to quit using tractor transmissions and start using sports car transmissions so switched suppliers. They went from single cone iron to triple cone brass.
Iron syncros wore the gears out. In most cases the gears went in the same garbage can as the syncros.

 

Have it your way

 

Funny, I have been using it for 10 years in 360s with no issues including a number of cars with 6 digit mileage.
When I moved I threw away a big box of cooked and worn out syncros from 355, 360, 550, and 575 and none from gear boxes using Mobile 1 gear oil.
The triple cone syncros in all of those are made by the same company,