TR battery not charging diagnosis | FerrariChat

TR battery not charging diagnosis

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Warlock, May 15, 2025 at 9:37 AM.

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  1. Warlock

    Warlock Rookie

    Nov 24, 2013
    7
    Dallas, TX
    Full Name:
    Sunny
    Hey folks, 10 minutes to driving the new-to-me ‘88 TR to get it registered the charging light came on. My cigarette lighter VM shows voltage dropping from 12V down to 10 in a few mins.

    Made it back home, charged up the battery and trying to diagnose if it’s an alternator/rectifier issue or something else. The alt belt is still on and spinning, and VM at battery confirms ciggy lighter readings. Given the position of the alt, (and presumably the rectifier is inside it?), is there a good diagnosis point where I can isolate and check alt voltage? What other steps can I take to confirm it’s the alternator and not a short elsewhere or other issue?

    BTW, I saw a thread where Steve suggested checking AC volts, both my digital and analog meters show 24-25 VAC.

    Prior to this the car ran fine but I did notice that all external lights would flicker while the car was cold idling, not sure if that portends anything or if it’s just the nature of the TR’s charging system.
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  2. Warlock

    Warlock Rookie

    Nov 24, 2013
    7
    Dallas, TX
    Full Name:
    Sunny
    Looking at the workshop manual, it appears that the alternator output wire joins the battery circuit at the starter terminal.

    No 50 on the schematic says:
    “50 - Alternator charging circuit failure optical indicator (L. 12V - 2W red)”
    Is this the dashboard battery warning light or something else?
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  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,597
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Yes, 50 is the alternator warning light (although that's kind of a misnaming -- it's only actual function is to detect a broken alternator belt although it will often illuminate for an electrical failure inside the alternator).

    Not good, and, unfortunately, justifies an alternator-ectomy (and testing/repair/replacement)
     
  4. Warlock

    Warlock Rookie

    Nov 24, 2013
    7
    Dallas, TX
    Full Name:
    Sunny
    So I pulled the alternator and took it to an Autozone to test, they’ve confirmed that it’s not working. The youngster was unable to be more specific. There appears to be a replacement available for about $100. IF you’re in the US, would the tribal wisdom be to take to an old school alternator/starter shop for a rebuild or buy new?

    Interestingly, I did not have to remove engine mounts and lift/drop one side of the engine like the other threads mentioned, I found enough clearance to extract the pivot bolt.



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  5. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    6,698
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    If you have a good shop I like to keep things original and they will definitely know if bad
     
  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,597
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    I wouldn't have too much heartburn over using an equivalent replacement (if it is also 120A rated) -- you can always keep the original. One point is there are two different pulleys -- yours is the later style multi-rib, but the picture shows the earlier v-belt style. I don't know if the pulleys can be swapped or not, but something to consider (if it's a non-returnable special order situation) -- although those pictures are not always 100% accurate either.
     
    Warlock, turbo-joe and flash32 like this.

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