360 360 A/C not blowing cold

Just off the top of my head analysis, if the Stop Button is in the correct position (released and not pushed in) and the rad fans run, then electrically speaking the circuit is working (fuses, relays etc). But what is the compressor doing? I would very carefully check with the engine running if the clutch is engaged. If it isn't then you get no cooling and may need a slight top of of freon above the 30 psi you measured.

 

A/C hoses over time can "weep" refrigerant. It may just need little 134A.

Mine was blowing cold when I got the car and then the next summer, it was only cool not cold enough to keep the cabin cooled down in the hot Florida summers here. A pound of 134A and everything is great.

 

Is that 30 psi with the compressor clutched in ?

 

Most compressors have a cut out if the Freon level (pressure) gets too low and the clutch won't engage. Can't say for sure with the 360 but I would bet it does too.

 

Watching this thread closely as my ac isn’t blowing cold this year either.

Unfortunately in our social dictatorship r134a isnt available for consumers(they sell r12a and r290 only) so I’ll be taking it to an ac repair shop this week.

 

Take a trip to Niagara-on-the-lake and sneak over the border to Buffalo. Every auto store sells them with hoses and gauges already attached.
Bringing it over the border is not a problem. They don't care.

 

If you can see the compressor, can you see the power cable to the clutch? If so then disconnect it and run a 12 volt wire from the battery to the clutch- with the engine off you should hear the clutch engage. This will prove the clutch.
Now take the wire off the battery, start the engine and reconnect the clutch supply from the battery. If the ac still does not work then look at gas content

 

If you can see the belt driving the pulley, you should be able to see a portion of the clutch shoe on the front of the pulley. As stated above, most systems, including Ferrari have a low pressure cutoff which is located in the front compartment near the fill port (high side I believe). The pressures given are subjective given the fact that the pressures are impacted by ambient temp and the temp given in the manual is in the 70's if I recall correctly. Not sure about where you are but down here in the Texas it only gets to the 70's is around midnight for one week during the winter. It also states a proper cooling system is blowing between 45-55 degrees. When I went through my system earlier this year and replaced the dryer and compressor, followed by a recharge, my discharge temps at the vent were in the 30's. I've been doing auto ac for quite a while on different cars and I have always used the system capacity as a guide and not an absolute. (fyi, my system is below the capacity stated in the WSM). Case in point, when I recharged my car this last time, I monitored pressures and added Freon until the low pressure line going into the evaporator began to sweat. My pressures are a little higher but like I said, those pressures are for a given temperature and will vary accordingly.

Anyway, when I bought my car in 2014, it had a small leak that required recharge annually. That leak got bad enough this year that I had to change the compressor. I also replaced the dryer which was dated 1999. So much for changing the dryer every two years. One key thing about the compressor as well, is the oil capacity. The WSM is full of translation errors especially on some measurements. The oil capacity shows about 9 oz. of oil for the compressor. This is typically the whole system capacity for most cars, where as the compressor gets about 3-4 oz. and the rest is spread out in the other components. Most compressors are also shipped dry or at least there is an indication of the status. Mine was not and there was no indication. Standard procedure is to remove the old compressor and drain the oil to get your capacity. My old compressor, after 20 years of service, had no measurable qty of oil inside. Given the qty. of oil that was on the exterior of the compressor, I wasn't really surprised, but since it wasn't making noise, I figured it had some oil in it....apparently just enough to keep it from locking up. I went to pull the drain plug on the new one and it was a good thing that I had a cup underneath since I drained about 6 oz. of oil from the compressor. I refilled it, and the 6 oz. of oil there plus the 2 oz. of oil I added to the new dryer pretty much put the system back up to capacity.

Your methods and procedures may vary from mine, but mine is based on MY experiences as both a paid and DIY technician. I take no responsibility for anyone's actions other than my own and I have done some really bone headed things in the past. Also, the system calls for PAG 150 oil. However, my compressor was shipped with PAG 46. Given the fact that I was replacing both compressor and dryer, I elected to go with PAG 46 as this is what the compressor manufacturer spec'd. If you disagree, please re read the first sentence of this paragraph....

If I remember correctly, my low side is around 30 and high is just over 200



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This is assuming that the low pressure cutoff switch is working correctly though.

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Its a matter of going by steps, i would expect the pressure switch to be in line with the clutch wiring. The industrial stuff i used to work on had separate switches so it was a lot easier to see what was going on.
As you say the sweating on the evap feed is good indicator

 

Got back from getting mine serviced.
It was holding pressure so no significant leaks expected or found.
They did the service/fill and I was back in the road in less than an hour.

cost more than if I bought the cans, gauges etc but I’ve got more peace of mind now, and if there was a big leak i would’ve pissed away whatever I’d spent on the stuff as it leaks out.

 

My A/C stopped blowing cold last summer. It was working fine the previous summer.

I had the seat out and decided to give a look and see what could be seen. The clutch definitely engages with the "STOP" button. With the car running, I decided to check the add fluid port, and it looks like pressure could be high running max fan, Lo temp (also no can was attached). NO cold air coming out and it's only 65F here.

Any ideas to try?

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Did you figure this out yet?

 

I am waiting for the two seals at the compressor to arrive! I won't know until I get it back together and try it.

I haven't found any obvious problems and haven't been able to get my old compressor apart yet.