308 Brake calipers

Try looking in the 308 section where this sort of information is focussed - especially the interchangeability thread

 

more than likely the same , possibly just the centre spacer is a different thickness, I have used 911 calipers on a dino and just replaced the central spacer ,

 

Fronts, maybe...the rears are similar but bleed screw is upside down, between the brands ...something like that.

They are not a direct crossover or the Pcar guys would use them all up!!

Similar performance loads obviously...

 

The 308 calipers, 78 to 82, were ATE. IIRC, they are similar to but not identical to Porsche 911sc calipers. I think the rears cross to 914, but as Tex said, bleed screws are upside down for our cars.

Check the Parts sticky thread at the top of the 308/328 forum. Also, search the 308/328 forum for 308 brake caliper and you will come up with a ton of threads discussing this very subject, how to fix them, and where to get parts.

 

These are ATE, off of the front of my Euro, Mondial 8, 1981
Fit all 308 up to 1983....
Not like any Porsche parts I have seen.
Extra parts now,, For Sale,, Cheap.
PM me.


Edwardo
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I just replaced a front caliper on my 1984 308. You can use Porsche brake calipers.
To make the Porsche caliper exact you will have to use the Ferrari caliper spacers.
I used an A-1 Cardone 17-921 Porsche front driver caliper to replace my 308 passenger side front caliper. Ferrari calipers are mounted the opposite to Porsche calipers.
The up to 83 911 uses a 20mm rotor
The 308 uses a 22mm rotor
The 911 84-89 uses a 24mm rotor

Our brake rotor thickness requires us to change the spacers from our old Ferrari caliper to the new or rebuilt Porsche caliper.
Take care

Charles

 

Dear Friends,
I'm about to rebuilt the calipers but I having a hard time to find the the small o'ring that goes inside the spacer when you put the 2 halves together
All the kits that I found online (superformace UK, Ferrparts and etc ) this small o'ring does not come with the kit
Where do you sourced the whole set for this rebuilt ?

Thanks

 

if you do buy an aftermarket (not genuine ATE) brake caliper rebuild kit, the O-rings are usually included. I've recently used ATE, Frenkit and AutoFren SA : the later two had the o-rings included.

To be honest, I do not use the o-ring: unless the groove for the caliper seal is really rusty, I do not see the point in using a dremel (as suggested on most you-tube video). With a bit of patience, it's really easy to clean the caliper without separating the two halves (or resorting to "Dremel brute force").

 

Dear Friend

Thanks for the help!
The reason for me to split the caliper apart is that I would like to change the bolt that hold them halves together since its very rusty
But also I have a few questions. If I don't take the halves apart
1-) May I send the whole caliper to the Yellow Zinc Plating? With this chemical treatment ruin the small o'ring inside the halves?
2-) May I clean the whole caliper with muriatic acid to prepare it for the Plating? Same question, it will damage the o'ring?
3-) Also I'm plating the whole caliper, the 2 bolts that hold the halves will, obviously be plated as well, but seems to me that the original caliper have the caliper body in yellow zinc but the bolts have a silver color. So, change bolts after plating?! If I can find this bolts! Or disassemble the whole thing and send the bolts for a different color plating ?
4-) And finally I could not find a consensus on plating the calipers bore (where the piston goes) or not. I see some people saying that the bore must be plated and some people saying that the bore must remain in steel? I don't know... All I know is that for the few calipers that I rebuilt in my live time, around 5 cars mostly 911 and 308 I never see a bore zinc plated, not even the face of the spacers that goes between the calipers halves. So I don't know exactly what to do

Thank you all for the input !

 

I just thouroughly clean the caliper and find the natural colour appropriate, I'd rather avoid having some plating in the bore or the groove inside the bore: the more stuff inside this groove, the harder the seal will constrict the piston. You want the piston to get back easily once you depress the pedal.