Missing at low idle on a couple of cylinders | FerrariChat

Missing at low idle on a couple of cylinders

Discussion in '308/328' started by Danielle, May 1, 2025.

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  1. Danielle

    Danielle Rookie

    Aug 2, 2023
    12
    Full Name:
    Danielle L
    Greetings all. I have a problem with my 308 QV (1983) that I have been working with a mechanic on and wanted to theorize a bit. I have owned the car for a couple of years, and have been driving it (when I can).

    Symptoms:

    Issue 1) Missing at low idle (which has been set up around 1500RPM, and this is too high) (once I'm above 3k during normal driving it seems to clean up), and during warm up cycle.

    Issue 2) It stranded me a few months ago after a long run and would not start. The previous mechanic I took it to believed the cylinders had been flooded. They found low cylinder pressure but were able to get pressure back. They were unable to diagnose a cause, but I did need a new battery (replaced).

    The fuel distribution system has been replaced and it is correct for a 1983 QV (the non-lambda one). It has been replaced twice in the last 4 years actually (once as documented by the prior owner, and once by me when I was trying to get it through emissions). This leads me to believe that is is less likely (though not impossible) for the distribution system to be at fault. This is an issue the car feels like it has had since I have owned it, so I believe the symptoms might be lending themselves to make it look like a fuel distribution issue.

    Current state:
    When I start the car up, it goes through the warm up cycle, which sits at about 2.5k-3kRPM (again, slightly high). At that RPM during warm up if I put my hand near the exhaust on the right side I feel an uneven pulse of exhaust, which my understanding is a likely indicator for missing. On the left side it feels more even, and I can tell on cold mornings by the amount of condensation burning off that the left side is pushing more air out. Additionally, judging by the sound there is an occasional but not quite regular miss happening. When I stop at a light or stop sign, and I go to idle, I can hear missing start up, though it tends not to be enough to stall me, and I feel some sputtering below 2kRPM as I begin to accelerate again.

    This leads me to believe the missing is electrical/ignition. The plugs and cables were replaced less than 18 months ago, along with both distributors and caps. The coils were not replaced as far as I'm aware.

    So, my question (thank you for reading), is: Is it possible for the coils to be the root cause for the missing? Any other suggestions for "easy" things to look at? I bought a new fuel and air filter, but because it's a specific bank of cylinders (the back ones of course) I would not think something that covers both would be the root cause.

    Thanks!
     
  2. 308 milano

    308 milano F1 Veteran

    Jan 15, 2007
    5,311
    Montana
    Full Name:
    Kim
    #2 308 milano, May 2, 2025
    Last edited: May 2, 2025
    Are you running OEM caps and wires?
    First thing I would do is pull it out of the garage at night, start it up and see if you have any arcing going on between the plug, extenders wires, etc., it will be more than obvious at night. If that checks out, I would Pull each plug wire and install one of those testers and check that you have continuous spark at each plug. If you lose a coil, you will lose the whole bank, either left or right. Sounds to me like it’s dropping a couple cylinders and then eventually flooding out and quitting. Start with the easy stuff first.

    Also, it’s normal to have disproportionate pressure through Each exhaust tip due to the way, the muffler is designed .
     
  3. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 1, 2005
    4,103
    Canada
    Take out the the easy to reach spark plugs and see of some are fuel fouled (black) more than the others. This would help determine if it is a spark problem on one bank, or on specific cylinders.

    The spark plug extenders could be arcing on specific cylinders. You can see a black burn mark on the extender if this is happening. Or, the plug wires may not have been seated fully in the caps, they are retained by screw pins that pierce the wires. That is a couple of things that can cause individual cylinder issues.

    That warm up rpm is too high. Maybe the fuel mixture has not been set up correctly, and you are running to rich or lean?
     
  4. 350HPMondial

    350HPMondial F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 1, 2002
    5,308
    18 mi from the surf,, close to Pismo, CA
    Full Name:
    Edwardo
    I’ll bet you have one bank out. ( these things run good on one bank,, )
    But,, you Know when it’s all 8
     
  5. Danielle

    Danielle Rookie

    Aug 2, 2023
    12
    Full Name:
    Danielle L
    I am running OEM caps/wires, and they were replaced about a year and a half ago. I too believe it is dropping a cylinder (at low idle at least) and then eventually flooding out. At higher rev's it seems better, or at least slightly less missing. I hadn't thought about checking it in the dark, that's a good idea and I will try that this weekend!
     
  6. Danielle

    Danielle Rookie

    Aug 2, 2023
    12
    Full Name:
    Danielle L
    We checked one of the plugs in the easy to reach bank and it looked "normal". I feel like perhaps the idle was set higher because the missing tends to happen less at higher RPM. It is eventually flooding though even at higher idle. The real check will be when we can get to the ones in the back.
     
  7. Danielle

    Danielle Rookie

    Aug 2, 2023
    12
    Full Name:
    Danielle L
    Is it possible for exhaust to be coming from both pipes if only one bank is running? If so that's a possibility.
     
  8. lopena

    lopena Formula Junior
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 3, 2003
    753
    Yes, it is very possible to have exhaust exiting both sides, even if only one bank is firing. USA-spec 328’s have mufflers with only one inlet so there’s no separation of exhaust gases between front and rear banks.

    Alan
    N.J.
     
  9. Danielle

    Danielle Rookie

    Aug 2, 2023
    12
    Full Name:
    Danielle L
    I presume it's the same with 308 then? If that's the case is it possible to just swap the leads from one of the ignition coils to the other and see if the problem moves?
     
  10. Danielle

    Danielle Rookie

    Aug 2, 2023
    12
    Full Name:
    Danielle L
    Update: We swapped the digiplexes to see if one was causing an issue, and the problem didn't seem to move. The spark plugs on the trunk side of the motor seemed fine, but those are not the ones that seem to be missing either.

    Checked vacuum on a few common places to confirm no obvious holes/tears in tubes.

    Validated that the fuel distributor was replaced in 2022 and then again in 2023 (after I bought it) because it was running really rich and I suppose in both cases the presumption was that the fuel distributor was causing that issue. However we noted that no one had replaced the fuel injectors themselves.

    So now I have fuel injectors on order. The theory is the car is 42 years old and perhaps the springs on a couple of injectors have loosened enough that they are passing fuel at lighter pressure than they should be, and that seems logical to me considering all the fuel related issues I seem to be having. I also ordered injector carriers in case any of those are bad/split/torn/broken or otherwise not functioning.

    If that solves it I will post again.
     
  11. Zenobie

    Zenobie Karting

    Feb 22, 2021
    239
    Belgium
    Full Name:
    CO
    I had a more or less similar problem with my 328 - 4 months ago.
    Slightly irregular idle and at +/- full throttle sputtering up to 3000 rpm. Once above that 0 problem. In my case it was 1 extender that was corroded and dirty contacts in 1 of the distributor cap. Cleaned everything up and since then +/- 1000 km without any problem
     
  12. GordonC

    GordonC F1 Rookie
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Aug 28, 2005
    4,158
    Calgary, AB, Canada
    Full Name:
    Gordon
    If you're thinking that one bank is not firing properly, you need to check ALL the plugs, not just the easy to reach ones ;)

    The fuel distributor meaning the large part with the eight injector lines coming out the top, right? Those can be serviced and adjusted to ensure that each injector is getting the same flow rate. Even a new or replacement unit should be tested on a Bosch fuel testing rig to ensure it's set up for even distribution.

    Injectors - they're really dumb devices on a K-Jetronic system - the relatively weak internal springs have one function, preventing the injector from leaking when the engine is not running. Once the engine is running, they're open - the spring pressure is not related to their running function - so your theory about injector springs causing an issue or misfire is incorrect. That said, dirty injectors can cause running issues, so having them cleaned (or replaced, if they are leaking or won't clean up to give a good spray pattern) is worthwhile.

    You haven't mentioned the WUR, Warm Up Regulator, yet - that is a key component that controls the fuel pressure to the distributor when the engine is cold and warm. It is tested and adjusted in the car by inserting pressure taps in the fuel line connectors and measuring the fuel pressures, and some adjustment is possible. A defective or out of adjustment WUR can cause multiple running problems.

    Once your WUR is set correctly, then the fuel distributor has a mixture adjustment that needs to be set in the car using a CO tester or wideband O2 tester.

    Gordon
     
  13. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,308
    UK
    Have you pulled the plug leads and checked for continuity? The wires are spiral bound & so they can break inside but still work while the spark jumps the gap.

    Eventually they get unreliable & then they stop working.
     
  14. ferrariowner

    ferrariowner Formula 3

    Feb 21, 2014
    1,143
    Mansfield, TX
    Full Name:
    Ron
    Check you spark plug extenders. They unplug at the boot. The stock QV units have resistance, around 1k as I recall when good. The 328 extenders are solid core. Use the 328 units.
     
  15. Danielle

    Danielle Rookie

    Aug 2, 2023
    12
    Full Name:
    Danielle L
    Yep! That fuel distributor. It was installed, tested, and adjusted. Twice! (So we don't think that's the problem). We will be checking (all) the plugs/cables when we are able to get to the cabin side of the motor (not this weekend but probably next weekend). For the springs leaking theory that's good to know. The cylinders that are missing are definitely not being starved, maybe they are dirty, though I'm not sure I understand if they are open all the time how that might contribute to too much fuel. It would be too little I would presume? Maybe that's not a correct assumption.

    Regarding the WUR - wouldn't that affect all the cylinders? It is missing both during warm up and after warm up, but it's especially noticeable at low(er) idle.

    One part that I found as part of the injection system that also hasn't been discussed is the injector carrier. That is supposed to help aerosolize the fuel. If one of those is broken or split maybe that's a problem? That's going to be more difficult to get to than the injectors themselves though.

    We haven't pulled them, but they were replaced about a year and a half ago too. It's something we can check when we get to the cabin side of the motor.

    We checked the distributor cap on the cabin side and it seemed pretty clean. The distributors were both replaced about a year and a half ago when it wouldn't pass emissions too, so in theory they should be good, but that's something to look at too.

    Thank you all for the ideas! I'll keep you updated.
     
  16. Danielle

    Danielle Rookie

    Aug 2, 2023
    12
    Full Name:
    Danielle L
    We can check continuity on those as well once we get to the cabin side of the motor. Thanks!
     
  17. 85QVEuro

    85QVEuro Formula Junior

    Jan 15, 2021
    531
    NYC
    Full Name:
    Joe
  18. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,308
    UK
    Most rough running problems on these engines are ignition related. You need to start at the plugs and work backwards on both banks & rule out all the ignition related stuff before you go near any of the fuel related stuff.

    Any of individual plugs, extenders and leads will cause individual cylinders to misfire. The extenders burn through, the leads break internally.

    Coil leads, distributor caps, rotor arms, ignition sensors, ignition amp modules, coils and (in the case of a QV, ignition boxes) will cause a whole bank to go. A failed oil seal allowing oil into the distributor will also cause rough running, if not take a bank down.

    Same applies to a 328 except that there are only 2 ignition sensors and one ignition box so if any of those go the whole thing dies.
     
  19. GordonC

    GordonC F1 Rookie
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Aug 28, 2005
    4,158
    Calgary, AB, Canada
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    Gordon
    The extenders usually don't show continuity or resistance problems - the way they go bad is they arc through from the core conductor to the wall of the spark plug hole, and that electrical arc burns a hole right through the side of the extender. Once there's a path of lower resistance (the burn through), then the burned extender regularly will arc and ground through the extender, and the spark doesn't get to the plug with 100% regularity.

    You will see the arc burn mark easily on red extenders, if you have black extenders the arc burn hole will be harder to spot, needing a closer inspection.

    Regards,
    Gordon
     
  20. Zenobie

    Zenobie Karting

    Feb 22, 2021
    239
    Belgium
    Full Name:
    CO
    Hi Gordon, In my case there was no arcing simply corrosion on the connection of one of the extenders so there was nothing to see on the exterior. Clean it up and since then no problems at all. Bought some new extenders butt considering that I am the chairman of the club of "Limiting efforts" :) they new ones go in when the problems come back
     
  21. Danielle

    Danielle Rookie

    Aug 2, 2023
    12
    Full Name:
    Danielle L
    We swapped the digiplexes but the missing didn’t seem to change. The sensors are on the list too though.
     
  22. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,308
    UK
    If you had a bad digiplex or a bad sensor you would likely lose a whole bank. If its just rough idling / individual cylinder missing its most likely plug , extender or plug lead. A cap or rotor arm going bad might also be involved

    Worth checking inside the caps for oil anyway.

    As above, start at the plugs and work backwards.
     

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