360 My turn for the heat exchanger failure

Sorry to hear ...I know what you mean about not enough time to tend to all the toys and regular stuff

If you need a hand ..I am not far ...

Give me a shout on pm if you want

 

This is a normal Flash 32 (Dominck) response! "If you need a hand, I'm not far" This man has helped me sooooo much in the past few weeks and I can't thank him enough. We are ALL blessed to have him on this forum!! Thank you , Dominick!!

 

Feel for you. Mine failed in the driveway at home right after washing the car. It took 6 weeks to get the exchanger from Italy (slow boat? row boat?) + 13 (THIRTEEN!!!) fluid flushes to clean out the coolant system and gearbox. Best of luck w/yours!

 

We have a mutual friend .. small world

John is a great guy

 

What is your plan in terms of flushing it

 

Is it a spider? It's a bit of a job for a spider.

 

I haven't looked into it but I thought shops use ATF for a quick clean - not on the road just a few minutes on lift in gear

 

Once you get your HE out, flush out the coolant side and look down the tubes. Are they shiny or corroded? A few will be blocked with oil and crud but most should probably be clear.

If the tubes are shiny inside, then the corrosion and failure happened from the transaxle side. If the tubes are corroded, then it's likely the problem originated with the coolant.

The one example I have shows shiny tubes on the coolant side. The transaxle oil likely was the cause of the failure because it wasn't yellow metal safe.

 

Flushing the trans is easy and does not take long. I use whatever is cheap, often motor oil. Its just being run on a hoist to circulate it. 3, maybe 4 flushes is all it takes. I learned the hard way on the cooling system. Oil obviously floats on water. When it is drained oil sticks and coats things internally when the water level drops and does not really drain out. Even detergents to break up the oil doesn't seem to work. I started to just run it until warm and suck everything I could out the top. Keep doing that and it will clear up. Seems for me to be a faster way to go about it. You can even drive it some at this stage and when it finally shows clean after a few inspections/heat cycles you can refill with coolant.

 

I did the same and removed the intake manifold. Removing the intake is a good way to go about it, especially if you're going to do a major service. Just do it all at once and make it easier to get to everything. Mine wasn't leaking, however... its 25 years old this year and i figured if i made it this far, i was already on borrowed time. Replaced it with one from Awitalian and went on my way. I did however re-use the factory clamps on the newly supplied boots as they factory clamps are much better.

Watch for the way you route the gearbox lines also when you put the new heat exchanger back in. Wiring harnesses near stainless braided lines can be a potential disaster when they start chaffing through the harness.

Make sure to check the rubber 180 degree brake booster lines on your intake manifold near the banjo fittings and any other hoses around it while the intake is off.

 

Referring to this from the video, is this the sensor that provides the temperature for the gauge?

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