guys are doing the same thing on their hot rod boats...its called captains call. http://www.marineparts.com/mpf/mpf324.aspx easy enough to do for someone with a mandrel bender and a 12v solenoid. would be a cool aftermarket product too for tubi to add. fwiw.
Just looked at my engine bay (360 2004) and I only see one at the right rear ( Passenger side ) is that it ? Just unplug it and start up the car ? Thanks
Your 04 should be same as my 99. There is a valve with connector on BOTH sides. They are in relatively the same spot, but oriented slightly different if I recall. Unplug both, and remember to ziptie them out of the way so they don't hit anything hot. Let us know what you think!
There's a company called Dimex who makes a remote control for the valves, it's just a "plug and play" unit, you get a little rmote fob so you can just open and close the valve from inside the car. I'm going to buy a couple for evaluation. Here's a picture of it.....
FYI..... After driving around with my BP-valve solenoids unplugged, the Check Engine Light came on. When we plugged into the computer it showed a fault with the bypass valve: the computer can sense a disconnected bypass valve solenoid.....which is why most people just unplug the vacuum line and cap 'em off (keeping the solenoid valve connected). The 2 solenoid valves regulate the vacuum line running to the exhaust bypass valves. You can disconnect the solenoids OR unplug the bypass valves, both have the same result....but as mentioned, unplugging the solenoids can cause a CEL indication. One quick tip if you do run the solenoid route; to prevent the computer from sensing the disconnected (or electronically disonnected) solenoids, you can just put a 12-volt relay across the line in parallel, that way when the solenoid is disconnected, the relay's coil continues to present a "load" so the computer thinks the solenoid is still connected. The computer can't tell if the coil is the solenoids coil or the relays coil....in the end, it's just resistance and semi-ground across the line. Also, you just need one relay. That FOB system looks pretty nifty, I like that it just plugs into the solenoid valve and you're ready to go. The only problem I see is that the depicted system looks to only hook to one solenoid, but we have two solenoids....one on each side. You'd only be cutting in & out one side, half the game. To get the full effect you'd need 2 of those systems or more preferably, 2 receivers operating with the same remote. I wouldn't do it. You can buy Bosch relays for about $5 and I found a great little 12-volt remote control system with TWO remote fobs for just $12 on geeks.com
Yes, you just plug it in-between the plug for the solenoid and the connector. The kit comes with everything for the 360, including two controllers. The picture shows one because it's for the 355. I should have stated that...Sorry. I don't know what the quality is like, i'm going to order a set today or tommorow, and stick them on a sales car to evaluate. If anyones interested, i'll let them know what i find.....
I just did the disconect servo relay and took her a 360 04 Spyder F1 for a ride. I like the low end sound better than the "pluged" version, above 4k and it sounds about the same GREAT! Ok, so far no CEL but.... if it's going to come on...will it?... then I will put add Bosch 12v relay. My question is do I need one for each servo or will one surfice? Where can I get a female connector to match the ones in the car? One other thought, is there a relay or fuse going to this servo somewhere in the electrical system? If so why not access the circuit at that point and add a switch or some sort of dummy load? Because the teeny tiny conectors at the servo are a pin in the ASS to get at! Thanks!
Hi Guys Just brought a 360 Modena manual I’m in the process of removing the original exhaust The new unit doesn’t have the left and right by pass valves. What do I have to do to valve pipes .
Put old bypass pipes on new (OEM?) exhaust? Image Unavailable, Please Login I think we are missing some details here. What parts do you have?
Not sure about your problem, but thanks for bumping this. I was actually wondering if there was a way to keep the valve slighty open. The Kline muffler does too good of a job keeping the noise down and I wanted to get just a little bit more volume out of it.
Wouldn't it just be a matter of adjusting the capsule actuator arm? Image Unavailable, Please Login i.e. assuming it has enough adjustment on it. Apply a vacuum to the capsule and lengthen the rod (a few threads at a time). Or.. maybe add a mechanical stop. I can see in the photo, a bent piece of metal stopping the actuator rod going downwards (in the photo). Assuming the photo shows the valve fully open (with loss of vacuum), the bent piece of metal would stop the valve at a fully open position. Just put an additional mechanical restriction on the upper side (if there is not already one). Maybe add some kind of adjustable clamp at first to get the right position? I think doing it electronically, like an electronically controlled turbo wastegate, might be a lot more difficult. I had an electronic control for the wastegate on my Esprit Turbo. The workshop manual said not to push/pull on the capsule rod mechanically. Use vacuum to get the rod in the right position. (EDIT: Now that I think about it, don't twist the rod. If you can get the ball and socket apart, after undoing the locking nut, twist the socket to adjust the rod length. Use vacuum as required to get the ball back on the socket)
The Kline one is slightly different. I’ll have to look at it and see if there is an equivalent way to modify that one.
