Fuse box connector pin out (consolidated)? | FerrariChat

Fuse box connector pin out (consolidated)?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Warlock, May 31, 2025.

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  1. Warlock

    Warlock Rookie

    Nov 24, 2013
    26
    Dallas, TX
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    Sunny
    Is there an easy to read consolidated list showing the pin outs for the connectors in the fuse box?
    The service manual shows it broken into sections.

    Driving the new to me 88, I could smell burning plastic after half hour, and I figured it would be infamous fuse block. Pulled it and I can see some pins/sockets that are burnt. I’m new to the Testarossa, and have a high level awareness of the issue, is there a leading/accepted set of replacement solutions depending on if you wanted to stay stock or improved? Search produces a lot of results, perhaps one of you remember a particular search term or topic?

    I suspect the burnt pins must be fairly common, here’s what I’m dealing with. It looks like the prev owners have bypassed the fuel pump and fan relays with aftermarket/homegrown.

    Can I drive the car in this state or not advisable?
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  2. 66MK

    66MK Karting

    Nov 1, 2020
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    That would definitely stay in the garage if it were mine. I have Jenni Helms solution at Scuderia Rampante Ferrari. It is superb.
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    No ;). You've got the same 5 burned connectors that virtually all TR get eventually:

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    Here's a diagram with some descriptions that I put together some time ago:

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  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #4 Steve Magnusson, May 31, 2025
    Last edited: May 31, 2025
    Forgot to add that you already have the Scuderia Rampante modification (while perfectly functional, I'm not a fan of having those relays moved to the back of the fuse-relay panel -- makes it more difficult to do some simple diagnostic tests like removing a fuel pump relay, or a water fan relay, and using a jumper wire in the relay socket to manually run the corresponding item).
     
  5. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    Aug 29, 2008
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    There is other ways to remote the problem 6 circuits, and be more accessible.
     
  6. 66MK

    66MK Karting

    Nov 1, 2020
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    Hi Steve,

    I'm not in the same place as my car for another 3 weeks, but from memory this doesn't look the same as the one I have. I'll get some photos if this thread is still going when I get home (assuming that memory IS correct!)
     
  7. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #7 Steve Magnusson, Jun 1, 2025
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2025
    Yes, I think there are a couple of "versions" of the SR modification that evolved over time (all those yellow wires look "early" to me), but having the small signal wires from the existing relay sockets come out of an "empty" relay case that is plugged into the existing relay socket and wrap around the LH side seems very SR -- see the last photo in post #1 with the small wires labeled "2" and "3" from the water fan relay positions. Even if not done by SR, it is very much the same approach. Sunny's photos don't show the area, but having the auxiliary fuse panel added on the RH side of the chassis would be another SR clue. Here's some shots of what I believe is the later, more-refined SR modification (note the added fuse panel on the RH chassis side, and the missing fuses from their stock locations):

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  8. Warlock

    Warlock Rookie

    Nov 24, 2013
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    Sunny
    #8 Warlock, Jun 1, 2025
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2025
    oh wow, thanks for the pin out diagram, I should have just waited for Steve instead of wading through each section of the factory wiring manual.

    So it’s the SR mod, only mine has 5 relays instead of the 6 shown on yours Steve. So which one am I missing? I’ve confirmed that none of the burnt pins on my white connectors have any wires going into them, so they’ve all been bypassed already including the AC circuit. I do not have the aux fuse panel on the right, what are these for?

    That brings up the question of what is the plastic burning smell I got and how do I go about diagnosing it? I pulled over when I detected the smell and first stuck my head in the engine bay, and it didn’t seem like it was coming from there, so went in the frunk and it was way stronger near the fuse block so I assumed that was it. I turned off the AC and interior ventilation fans and made it home about 5 mins away. It seemed like the smell had gotten fainter when I did this, or it could be that having the fans off may have been a factor. I want to say it smelled like burning bakelite or a malfunctioning clothes iron, but that may just be my puerile mind, I can't even remember where I would have smelled bakelite before :confused:

    As an aside, I do see this green unplugged relay in the fuse box and I can see that the starter has an aftermarket relay added in the engine bay. I did see Steve’s comments elsewhere about trashing the ring gear if that fails, will look into that later.

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  9. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    I can't recall if the 6th relocated relay is for the oil fans or the AC condensor fan (or if the end user has a choice).

    I hope you have some fuses for those circuits somewhere ;). The might be located behind the fuse relay panel or could be in-line in the yellow wire joints somewhere.

    Can't comment much about that until you find the (melted) source.

    I believe that is 131486 -- the buzzer for low oil pressure or high exhaust temperature. It should be mounted behind the fuse relay panel (see TAV 125 in the TR SPC, item 14). Many get unplugged when the slowdown warning light ECUs get wacky.

    Yes, not a fan of adding that type of starter control relay in the engine bay -- it's just not the proper environment IMO.
     
  10. EZORED

    EZORED Formula 3
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    Warlock, do yourself a favor and get a new upgraded fuse box. The are available from GT Car Parts in Phx. Az. He also has the White plastic connectors. Guidos box is good also but you have to do some modification to the connectors if you have a testarossa.
     
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  11. Warlock

    Warlock Rookie

    Nov 24, 2013
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    Sunny
    Traced the wires and found them hiding next to the AC drier on another fuse block. Also found the burnt plastic problem cause, the lead wire from the battery has melted this hidden fuse block. Interestingly, the 2 fuel pump fuses had already been spliced out of the fuse block and have inline 15 amp blue fuses, the only active circuits on the fuse block are the three 20A yellow fuses. This implies the PO/ installer suspected the nameless, unrated, fuse block couldn’t handle the load!

    So these 2 radiator fans and AC are pulling some high amps, but no fuses are blown. Just the incoming wire into the fuse block has melted the block.


    Googling around for a 6 circuit block with 0.25” terminals, ganged, and 100A total rating, I see this, any other suggestions? Not too happy with the exposed screw terminal post or lack of attachment eyes

    https://www.waytekwire.com/catalog/power-distribution/fuse-blocks/optifuse-blr-i-306-standard-atof-atc-led-fuse
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  12. Warlock

    Warlock Rookie

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    Thanks Dennis, looks clean and factory, I like it. What is the ballpark cost, POA worries me o_O
     
  13. Warlock

    Warlock Rookie

    Nov 24, 2013
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  14. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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  15. TestaDDS

    TestaDDS Karting

    Sep 6, 2015
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    The second is the tachometric relay; it’s a safety device that cuts off the fuel supply.
     
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  16. jgmblair

    jgmblair Formula Junior
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    Funny you commented on this! I’ve been in communication with Thomas who picked up your window relays at my house, I was hoping he might find one of these over there as they were used on the Citroen. The original Bosch 0 280 230 006 is no longer available. He said he’d look around but I haven’t heard back from him.
     
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  17. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #17 Steve Magnusson, Jun 3, 2025
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2025
    Yes, that existing fuse block is way underdesigned from the point of view of how to get the current into it. A single 1/4" spade-like connector can't handle the 60~70A total current all those circuits would draw, nor, apparently, even the ~40A those three remaining circuits would draw (although it could've been a little pre-frazzled from before, so when they moved the fuel pumps off, it was already a little degraded).

    Much better with a larger threaded stud for the huge current input -- but be sure to follow their wire size recommendation, and use a quality loop terminal properly swagged to it. I believe the "attachment eyes" are the four counterbored holes between the fuse positions. (But I'd still prefer Guido's hard-wired PCB solution or maybe the GTC's thicker traces PCB as they keep the relays in the stock locations.)

    That other "relay" is 119660 for wiper intermittence:

    https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/part/ferrari/119660?id=62252

    Don't know if this is any easier to find (nor truly plug-and-play compatible), but I have in my notes (posted by an FChatter in Oct 2018) that an equivalent replacement for the Bosch 028230006 is Durite 0-723-42.
     
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  18. TestaDDS

    TestaDDS Karting

    Sep 6, 2015
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    Bosch 028230006 = Durite 0-723-42 = MEAT & DORIA 422011 = HÜCO 132041
     

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