Hi all, Finished my Mondial QV project, so have time to start work on my 2003 gated Spyder. Started by removing the undertray, and first mystery presented itself. See pictures of undertray, any thoughts? It was not a cobble job, quite nicely done, I just don't know why. Regards Jeff Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Typically, people use a two post lift which uses the round spot to place the lift. It's quite annoying to have to remove because of this. Some past owner must have become distraught and just cut those holes out so they could take the tray off with the car on the lift. Then when selling time came, the tray was pieced together in a rather ridiculous fashion. That's my guess.
When I bought my used 360 years ago, I pulled off the undertray, which had various tears, holes here and there, I think from normal road rash. I opted to use fiberglass, resin, and epoxy to patch it all up, as I imagine most people do. So yea, as EastMemphis said, they probably just needed to fix these spots for the reason he guessed. And maybe they felt more comfortable working with sheet metal and fasteners than fiberglass & resin. Shrug.
As a car builder and seeing a lot of "owner fuxes" (yes a joke intended) I have always said folks work on their own cars to the extent of their abilities. And of course patience is a valuable "ability."
All, Thanks for the input, makes sense. Since I am working on a 4 post, I will do the repair in fiberglass when finished with the projects. So I am going to install Fabspeed headers with blankets, and the 200 cell cats. I have a 430 muffler, and already broke one of the studs trying to remove it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Im thinking this isnt a repair, but a modification. Looks like they made it so you can remove the parts that would typically be broken off when needing to access the jack points.
Hi all, Well I am at a loss! Removing the exhaust system to install Fabspeed headers with blankets, and cats. All was going well if slow until now. I have been removing header nuts for the last couple of days, and have seven nuts off on each header, but I am at a loss on how to get to the last two. The two in question are one each on each header, 2nd cylinder back from the front, on top. I have removed alternator, A/C compressor, wheel, wheel liners, in short everything that could be in the way. I have every imaginable wrench/socket, and cannot get to those two nuts. top, bottom, engine access panel, you name it, and this is on a four post lift. It seems like the air rail prevents me from getting a wrench/socket on the nut. If anyone has any suggestions, please help!!
When I did mine i used a combination (not all at the same time) of swivel socket, very thin/narrow box end wrench, obstruction wrench, and half moon wrench. I did not have to remove anything besides the air hose to get access but this was a coupe. It did help to climb onto the engine.
Amer-ah-cun persistence overcomes Eye-tal-yin engineering once again! So I reset, had a good night sleep, and attacked from a different vantage point, thru the wheel well from the top. Also ground my offset 13mm box end wrench down as far as I dared. Was finally able to get on the nut and break it loose, then 1/8th turn at a time until it would just spin off. My car is a 2003 gated spyder, and it was well worth the time to remove the alternator, and drop the A/C compressor without disconnecting the gas lines. Yes, I am a central Florida redneck. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Finishing up oil/filter change, pulled the fan screen to clean, this is how it looks when pulled out. Was suposedly cleaned aprox. 1000 mi ago. I have no idea what it should look like at this point. Thoughts are appreciated. Regads Jeff Image Unavailable, Please Login
I would also like to thank the "mechanic" who torqued the trans fill plug to about 1000 ft/lbs. More blood on the car! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Let me do the math, 2 ft. breaker bar, with 3 ft. pipe extension, 150 lbs pulling when the damn thing breaks loose, elbow into hatch latch, cry like a little girl, F-Bomb 50 times, wipe blood off of car, yeah about 976 ft./lbs.
Any mods for shortcuts are silly IMO...unless the car was a track car and then all bets are off because weekend warrior is going to weekend warrior. For the owner/mech/driver the fussy bits to getting into a particular job are a chance to inspect and deep clean areas of your car, at least that is how I have always approached my ownership experience. .02 EDIT: I do like that under tray repair though, looks good.
