Dan, yes the car has been working fine since. Has not shown any problems. Confirming i just unplugged the ECU of the side that was working fine and this forced the side that wasn't running to fire up. Then i turned the engine off and plugged the ECU back in. Full engine fired up right after. Perhaps a difference from mine to yours is that when half the engine wasnt running, there was bo fuel smells. And the injectors were not pulsing. ECU seems to have been down. If you have fuel but no spark, yours may be an igniton issue? Might need to check if you have spark
@Qavion Thanks for the reply. Yep, the check engine and slow down lights all work, to the degree, but I'd feel better about this if one actually did come on. I'll do the fuse swapping and multimeter checking this weekend, as well as checking for spark. ( @LP13 )Thanks! Qavion, I see your avatar and profile page has an Azzurro California F355, so I'll you say you're a man of great taste in car colors! Mine isn't quite Azzurro California, but close enough to give that compliment.
I don't have a wiring diagram for the check engine light, but it's common to have the light illuminated by a combination of power (12 volts) coming from the injector relay (which is controlled by the engine ECU) and a ground which is also controlled by the engine ECU. If the defect is currently a hard fault, see if the light still appears on startup. Or if intermittent, wait until the defect occurs, switch off the engine and then back on again to see if the light still illuminates (assuming the defect is still there). If it still illuminates, then the relay and at least some parts of the ECU are working.
The injector relay also provides a constant 12 volts to the fuel injector connectors with the key on. Are they easily accessible on the 456? Thanks. Yes, the colour seems to be quite popular. People have asked if it's an OEM colour. Apparently there are only 13 Azzurro California F355's in existence.
Just making sure that I'm following, but the normal cold start of the car when everything was working as it should would have the check engine light solid on for maybe 5 seconds right after starting it, then it would go out. With respect to my current situation, the light has never come on beyond what I'd call the usual 5 seconds after start up. I was able to check fuel-related relays and fuses, nothing looked amiss. I swapped relays for the different sides, and those weren't the issue either, unfortunately. I also am definitely getting spark on the side of the engine that isn't running. Thanks, Dan
What I'm trying to establish is if you have the bank issue from cold start. Is it a hard fault? If the issue is always there, then the injector relay (and the ECU) seem to be ok. Also, the crank sensor seems to be working, otherwise you wouldn't have a spark. We are now down to fuel. Is the pump working? Do you know how to jumper the pump relay to get the pump to run (for an audible check). Do you have NOID light to check the signals going to your injectors? I assume there's a Bosch type 2 plug on your injectors. If no NOID light, just make sure you have 12 volts at the injector plugs (key on).
