Forgot to add photos Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
On top of driver side wheel well there are connections that go to phase sensors there are 2. Disconnect those. For my car the pink connector in front is for bottom phase sensor Image Unavailable, Please Login
Undo A/c now. There’s an electric connector. Undo that first. Then unbolt both hoses going to compressor. My A/C is empty so no refrigerant is present. Those hoses are held in with a 1 1/8in connector. Use a wrench here also behind rear wheel by radiator is condenser. Undo the bottom hose. 19mm and 5/8in Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now onto the alternator. Rear alternator cap is held with 4 8mm bolts. Once cap is off disconnect power cable to alternator. Use 13mm to remove bolt. Also unclip green wire Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next to that is power steering pump. Put a pan underneath to catch power steering fluid. Smaller connector is 17mm. Larger banjo connector is 15/16in. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next undo the 2 oil lines that go to oil cooler on driver side. Use 36mm wrench Image Unavailable, Please Login
Undo coolant hose in front of engine that goes to coolant tank. Undo it at THe coolant Tank Replace this hose Image Unavailable, Please Login
At some point my car was updated to newer style clutch. So as of right now clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throw out bearing and pilot bearing cost about $3200. All new
Now back to underneath car. Undo the 6 8mm hex bolts from axles to rear differential Image Unavailable, Please Login
From rear differential there are two more ground straps that connect to frame. Undo 17mm bolts Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Undo speedo sensor from rear of transmission and reverse connect from shifter housing also undo the transmission mount held together by 4 13mm bolts. Please make sure to count how many shims on each side of mount Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
We’re almost there. Undo clutch slave cylinder. Take clutch rod off by undoing 13mm bolts. Disconnect clutch line to slave cylinder. Slave cylinder is held in place with a C clip Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Undo the two starter cables that go into frame. This is access by oil filter opening (triangular piece removed in beginning). There is a ground and positive cable. Positive go to main fuse with 15mm nut. Behind that the ground goes to a 13mm stud on the frame. Disconnect both wires Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And last,y undo motor mount bolts. I forgot to take photo. Use a 24mm socket and undo both sides from under car On the rear differential mount Undo the 22mm nut and bolt that goes to bracket and undo the rear mount brackets with 4 13mm bolts. Two more ground straps on these Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Forgot to mention undo accelerant cable which is bolted to front of motor. There are 2 10mm bolts that hold it in place. Then voila engine comes out. Need two people. Also protect rear window Like I said wasn’t too hard but let’s see if it goes back just as easy. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great thread. Diablo guys will thank you! Car looks to have been driven like it should. I might be in the market next year for a rough Diablo
Yes car gets driven. They all do. Not interested in cream puffs. An amazing this about cars of this age is the cars feel like you’re driving faster than you really are. I drive the 308 and at 40 miles an hour feels like I’m driving 70. So much fun.
While the motor is out, it is a great time to replace the motor mounts and driveshaft bearings (from gearbox to rear diff).
Have you ever taken out the driveshaft? I see only one snapping in front bearing. According to parts diagram there should be 2. It looks like it’s behind oil seal. Do you remove seal and then snap ring? Or remove the rear snap ring out and then use slide hammer to pull out shaft and then get to those bearings?
I haven't on the Diablo, but have on the Murci - driveshaft is not enclosed and I think the VT Diablo is a similar design where the early Diablo has the driveshaft enclosed. It is snap rings holding the bearings in and the driveshaft comes out the bell housing side of the motor.
As a guy with a 92 that will eventually need a clutch upgrade, I am grateful for the write up as I plan to do this myself, maybe over the winter (or hopefully not if my clutch remains in good health). I have watched an engine removal being performed on my Countach, it looks dangerous but seems all a question of angles and height of the car off the ground, something that experience teaches. I suspect the job is easier on a Diablo as the engine bay is more spacious and the shifter can drop out of the cabin once the knob is removed as unlike a Countach it uses an exposed linkage. How much did you have to rotate the engine to get the transmission to clear the chassis when pulling it out? What type of engine hoist did you use? The rigs I have seen for use with a Countach are somewhat specialized as it needs to be lifted quite high to clear the car. I was also told there is a near impossible to reach coolant hose above the Diablo's bell housing that is a good idea to replace.