I'm pretty certain that's what he meant as in the horizontal plane of the shift gate. I don't think the up/down adjustment is an issue here.
When you adjust the cables in the back; you need to make sure you take the cable play and actuator play into the account. You have to be very precise to zero out to be in the middle of that play for both when you select your point where you set and tighten...Easier to do if you are looking straight at the actuator, which means plastic pan out.
Last time I spent maybe 30 min going back and forth on the one cable and driving around with the diffuser off for easy adjustment. I don't think there's a way to do it with the diffuser on, is there? Or are you talking about another plastic pan?
I did it with the whole big plastic pan under the car off, and diffuser off... just so I can look at the actuator perpendicular (or close to). You do have a better look from the front side of the rear lower frame bit... Image Unavailable, Please Login In the pic the pan is on, but just wanted to show what I mean...
In any case if the shifting gets worse when hot, the shift cable to adjust is the lower cable at the actuator (which rotates the actuator shaft). At the cabin end, it is the cable which attaches to the "triangle" on the left, corresponding to the sideways movement of the shifter.
But George, isn't the cable your referring to the main one to focus on for ease of going into gear adjustment? The other cable is for forward and back which how far your in gear is the easiest to adjust if I'm correct
Hi Lorenzo, that is correct. The shifter front-back movement is easy to adjust, the side to side is the difficult one. The point here is that the shifting can be perfect when cold, but if it gets worse when warm (due to transmission metal expansion) - it most likely means that the original adjustment was not done correctly and further, small side-to-side adjustment is needed.
Thanks. Slowly collecting parts for future mods. Next on the list is the Founders headlight upgrade. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Good choose of mod! If you we I'll do the carbon inserts like the scuderia, I have a brand new set laying
these are already carbon on the inside but anybody looking to modify their stock lights should definitely take this offer. I even have a spare set of lights they can use.
I love my Kline but, even with the headers, the muffler is just too damn good. Really makes it almost quieter than stock. I’ve been thinking how I could keep the valves open just a hair to let some noise through instead of making it super quiet and fortunately, someone bumped the old exhaust mod thread up. So, using that, I purchased a set of 1/4” split collars off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CR68YN8F?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title These are stainless unlike the how-to’s black oxide so they blend a little better and hopefully won’t rust. They’re cheap hardware though taking the “stainless” description with a grain of salt. Anyhow, popped them on my valves in a minute and played with the volume levels using my Forza controller going open and closed until I found something I thought sounded good. Surprisingly, it was barely any movement. Maybe a few millimeters at most. I’ll likely play around with them some more but I’m happy for now. Gives it just a bit more aggressiveness without being too quiet so my only options aren’t super quiet or super loud anymore. You could likely accomplish the same thing by adding gasket spacers to the diaphragm end but this was way easier and more adjustable. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I just got in my stainless Kline headers we can compare when I put them on. Steel wrapped in inconel. Took 4 months. Current setup is capristo test pipes and S line. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Took the car to work today so I had a chance to test out the exhaust mod. I think this is what turns the Kline exhaust from good to great. I have to stress that the amount I made it stay open is incredibly small. Anything more than a few mm and it basically sounds like it's wide open. You can see from the pic how far up the collar is on mine and I might try to close it up just a half mm more depending on how the drive home goes. If you're in the same boat as I was with thinking the closed position was too quiet, this is absolutely the way to go.
I like the fact that when it’s closed, it’s quiet and when you accelerate, the rush is from the speed and not the sound, I find it to be a very pure feeling I mean I love the sound and almost always have them open, but sometimes it’s nice to just experience the car in, relative, silence to feel how it is behaving without the audible blast which invariably draws your attention and focus ……though you’ve got me wondering no matter the case, thank you for inventing yet another solution for these amazing machines!