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Today is a work catch-up day. So I'm sitting here with two watches to keep me company: A 23J wind indicator Waltham Vanguard from 1928 that came back 'good but not great' from a watchmaker. It's out of time keeping spec on the slow side by more the 30 seconds in a week (I think two of the six positions wouldn't cooperate). Interestingly, when I sent it in, I requested that it be brought within spec. and the watchmaker agreed. After servicing (cleaning, oiling and basic timing), when he felt he couldn't achieve his promise as he didn't have the necessary parts on hand and fiddling with what was there was diminishing returns, he sent it back at no charge! He even refused partial payment. Much respect (in spite of preferring a successful outcome) for that type of business ethic. It's fine for weekend use but not accurate enough for my liking or to carry as a daily. The watchmaker will let me know when he gets the right parts in for a second attempt. The yellow gold one is a 1933 (I think) Elgin model 494 23J with wind indicator. The model 494 was Elgin's top of the line railroad spec watch but this one was modified by Elgin when new to Navy aircraft navigation spec. The Elgin and Navy records are a bit thin as to how many were supplied to the Navy as these seemed to be ordered in small batches (in tiny volumes as compared to WWII). It is the earliest of the 12 known to still exist as having being supplied to the Navy. For perspective, this was 5 or 6 years after Lindberg crossed the Atlantic. I'm planning on eventually restoring it as close to original Navy spec as possible. I have several of the cases that are of the correct type (made of nickel - the old days equivalent of today's stainless steel case material) and I'm still researching the dial. Being this early, the dial may be correct. The later ones (1934 production) were black metal but each batch had slightly different details. Also, one other of the 12 known watches has this dial - what isn't known is if it came that way (exactly the same style dial font and details) or if the metal dial was replaced on the other watch. The homework continues! In the meantime, considering it has unknown service history, its doing quite well! It's less than a minute fast over 10 days, although that's a bit of a false statement as it's just been sitting in one spot un-carried. I believe one of the modifications (true on the 1934 watches) was a hacking function, which doesn't work. I won't know if it is where or even if the watch was modified to receive the device until the watch comes apart as part of the restoration. Image Unavailable, Please Login I've posted these watches before but I guess I'm still stuck on the '20s - '30s American high end theme.
I was just driving the slk back from a grocery run with my arm on the door rest. Sunny outside. Pulled in the dark garage and thought it looked cool. Robb
Todays watches: Illinois Sangamo Specials. The yellow gold (filled) is a 1920 Model 10, 23 jewel, 48 hour reserve, 17 size 'thin' model (original factory case). Very early in the switch to wider (from 16 size to 17 size) thinner configuration (based on the nuances of the crown design). The factory case is interesting in that the front has a hinge and the back is screw off. I believe this is for convenient time setting (it's lever set, a requirement for railroad standard, meaning you need to open the front bezel and pull out a little lever to set the time - preventing accidental time changes), IMO it's easier to pop open than unscrew. The enamel dial is also only 'single sunk' - meaning everything but the seconds disk is on a single plane. This is usually a feature of lower cost watches but is correct for this is a top of the line watch. In this case, it done to achieve 'slimness'. The white gold (filled) is a 1925 Model 13, 23 jewel, 60 hour reserve, 17 size "Stiff Bow" model case. As all Model 13s were 17 size, an unusual size, they were all factory cased (three styles, three colors, solid 14k or 25 year warranty 14k filled). The movement diameter is the same as the Model 10 but the watch movement and case are not 'thin' due to the bigger 60hr mainspring (which takes a LONG time to wind up... :^) ), double sunk dial and the stylistic details of the case design. The Model 13 is just cool (in my opinion) with it's un-hinged bow and deco details and model specific 'kite' hands - it has presence. I had wanted a 17 size Sangamo Special since I started collecting as a kid but didn't get one (couldn't afford it) until I resumed collecting a few years ago. When I first started looking for one, I really wanted the Model 13. To me the Model 10 just didn't stand out. However, I've really come to appreciate the Model 10 for it's really well thought out design details. To look at, I'd pick the Model 13; for daily wear, definitely the Model 10 - it's just a nice watch to carry, with well thought out details, that's sized perfectly for your jeans pocket and not too heavy for a suit. Regards, Art S. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Took this one off the winder today. Haven't worn in a quite some time. Despite the way Lange treats it's early customers, I still love this. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wearing the new 43 another week on the road then will switch to a different one. I love the bracelet and especially the micro adjustment easylink without having to take out links… I have a big wrist. Do the other Rolex bracelets on gmt, Daytona, etc have the easylink micro adjustment? Or is it just on their dive watches? Robb Image Unavailable, Please Login