Oil pan removal on a Daytona, fixed previously by Mickey Mouse!

Ouch !

Looks like a reasonably decent paint, but the prep before application might've been less than ...

OTOH, OEM paint finish on Daytona engines I've observed wasn't that great either.
Most repaints you see today, especially on restored (not just rebuilt) engines, far exceed coverage and material quality of OEM. Should they perhaps be penalized (by judges) being "over restored" ?

 

Most seemingly unmolested Daytona engines I've observed or worked on have exhibited rather rudimentary exterior paint on the block, heads, timing chain case and most of the auxiliary components, excluding distributors.

As for being "too porous", I believe is a wives tale created by someone with no firsthand experience/knowledge or even reasonable understanding, but then again, world of vintage cars is filled with "wives tales", some quite fantastic & persistent.

 

1. I really do believe Alfa had better castings.
2. Most Ferrari V12s were painted. I have genuinely always believed they were hiding them.

 

Exterior paint could not possibly cope with stopping leaks from porosity. The paint on the interior though did have a role there in addition to sticking in place casting sand missed in the various cleanings. Mercedes years ago even admitted the red lead paint used on the interior of their blocks was to stick in place casting sand missed in cleaning.

 

Same here and mainly to cover/hide uneven discoloration in their castings, at least on Daytona (+ one single owner, mostly unmolested C/4) engines I've encountered.

That has always been my understanding and same with Daytona transaxles made for them by ZF. Not familiar with M-B, but makes sense.

 

If you mean the exterior, i.e. the bottom of the pan having "another shade of silver", it could be the OEM (or some subsequent layer of) paint which I & Brian C. alluded to meant for covering/hiding color inconsistencies in the casting finish, not to provide sealing against leakage through it.

OTOH, as I've said before, all this is just guessing based on my limited experience, since I was never at or even near the factory when all the Daytona engines were cast, machined, assembled & refinished.

P.S. The damage, i.e. broken off section (+ subsequent repairs) in your OP photos seem to indicate/suggest someone having used too much force on (only) that corner of the pan when attempting to remove it.
Even us in the shade tree industry know better.

 

Ferrari painted both the inside and outside of their aluminum castings with green zinc-chromate primer, and then painted the outside silver.
The original paint is pretty durable, as you can still see the original green primer (now turned brown/grey/tan) on the inside of your sump plate.

Too bad about the poor quality repair, are you going to fix it?

 

Gyro Gearloose, cool name! I Googled him to see if his work was on the internet. Little did I know that it is the name of a Disney/Donald Duck character:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gyro_Gearloose

 

problem is that the aluminum is like a sponge and a lot of oil is inside. so first heat the complete part several hours ( good is a pizza oven ) and try then to weld. and if you see there is still coming oil vapors then take some more time to heat. and after welding cool it down slowly. then you not will get any cracks. I did this already on 5 oil pans from a 250 GT, 2 from 250 GT/E, 1 from a 330 GT and 1 from a 365 GT 4 2+2 or all are still not leaking and not have been cracked

problem is that mostly when the mechanics do an oil change that the engine is warm. so when the drain plug is out it will cool down very fast but the aluminum still is warm. then they put in the cold plug into the warm aluminum and tighten it to hard. so next time when it can get problem to loosen again

 

The real problem is too many people with no brain working on the cars.

 

While often very frustrating, it can also be viewed as a job security for those with one.

 

EDIT (for clarification):

 

Alberto, sure I would try to weld and if not ok then of course no charge. with porsche engines I had problems because there is a lot of magnesium inside and I could not weld this. I tried but it was broken again directly at the welding. this is long ago but meanwhile I not try to weld something with too much magnesium inside. this I just see when I try to weld and the flame is yellow or green. but if you like to send me your pan I will try to weld. I only think the transportation from you to me will get to expensive? so would it be possible to try to weld again at the pan and make a short video until the aluminum will get fluid? may be in the aluminum is only still too much oil?
the welding at your last 3 pictures is as I see it ok and no restoil inside.
at the 4th last picture you see clearly the burned oil
the cracks in the other pictures I think has accured when the oil pan cooled down too fast

you may fix the pan on a big thick piece of metal ( minimum 3 cm thick, best would be copper - then 5 cm - because of heating transfer ) with all the holes the pan has.

could you please post also a photo from the cracks at the drain hole from the inside after welding

 

This is part of a current project. This genius decided to replace 2 broken studs without draining the oil. His drill walked off the ends of the studs and made 2 new crooked holes. He tapped them to 1/4 inch and threaded in 2 siamesed studs. The originals screwed right out after taking off the lower pan but he was too lazy to take it off to do a correct repair. At least this one is not full of cracks.
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Sorry to see you having such problems with this Alberto.

Although not in a Ferrari or Daytona, I'm currently dealing with similar but significantly larger scale problems in 65 y.o. aluminum (see attached pics) intake manifolds with severe corrosion/oxidation not only between intake plenums & exhaust heat riser chambers below them, but also at their exhaust port flanges & choke pot attachment openings, not to mention several stripped stud threads created by ham-fisted cartoon characters presumably attempting to eliminate inevitable exhaust leaks caused by aforementioned oxidation, etc.
I did similar repairs on another identical set couple of years ago (as a part of engine rebuild, just like this job) and with prep, including cleaning/stripping, making templates for intended corrections, cutting/grinding/machining, etc along with welding, drilling/milling/etc + several test assembling/fitting of everything took close to hundred hours to accomplish and with exception of already existing "templates" having been made during previous job, I expect this to take close to same amount of time and effort.

And mind you both of these subject vehicles (& their engines) having been previously fully(?) restored (by someone else) to an appearance and condition which could easily afford them BiC or BoS accolades at any number of concours events, especially when considering both were "special order" one-off examples of already relatively rare production cars (one of them being 1 of less than 1000 made & the other 1 of less than 250 made, each with far less than 50% survival rate today).

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