Ferrari advises removing the evaporator, but can't you reach up under the dash on the right hand side? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Remove cover (2 screws), remove black insulation, remove valve clamp (#14) and remove pipes after evacuating the system, etc.
Gauges do not equalize, one pipe is slightly cool and the other really hot. I see I can reach on the side and get it out. What’s your take on those symptoms? TGK valve works.
When the system has been off for a while the suction and discharge will equalise, when running they will be big differences. The liquid pipe from the drier which is after the condenser should be say 7 C above outside air temp, this goes to the expansion valve and the pipe going back to the compressor should be cool or slightly cold, after going through the expansion valve and the evap. The only pipe that should be hot is the compressor discharge and up to the condenser inlet- look at the inlet and outlet pipes on the drier, they should be 7C above outside air temp and both pipes should be same temperature. If the outlet of these 2 is colder than the inlet then your drier is dirty.
No the outlet/inlet is the same temp. dryer is about 1 year old. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Now why does the TGK valve do this??? Video attached… I pressed the STOP button on AC and it stoped. Well I can’t upload the video but it’s knocking.
Something like this? https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/147562829/ YouTube link here: Sometimes solved by resetting the AC fuse or charging the battery.
Actually, I'm not 100% sure which fuse they mean. The TGK valve is powered and controlled by the HVAC ECU. The HVAC ECU gets live battery power from the maxi fuse next to the battery and it gets ignition/key power from fuse 64 behind the driver ("water recirc pump"). You would reset the ignition/key power simply by turning off the ignition (no fuse-pulling required). It would make more sense to reset the (red) 50amp maxi fuse or just reset the battery (although that would mean resetting other things)
A lot different to the expansion valves i have worked with, no capillary tube or bulb. Never seen one like that
I think the TGK valve is done. It shouldn’t be knocking like that. Now, the TGK valve is only for heating correct?? At least that is what I understand from previous reading.
Have you carried out the recommended system power reset? Have you disturbed the coolant system recently? Yes, only for heating. I’m wondering what will happen if you remove the fuse for the hot water recirculation pump. Will this stop the knocking? Does your noise sound “electromechanical” or “hydraulic” (water hammering)?
I changed the coolant about 1.5 years ago, but I’ve always heard that sound. It feels like a vale knocking in there. You can actually feel the solenoid giving it the command to open and close. No humming just knocking
Ok, so the job is complete. One thing i would mention is that when performing the job from the right side the plate that holds the valve underneath the two pipes will fall approximately 1/4 inch down. What I did was I bought a long threaded M5 with a .08 tip LONG enough to pick up the plate, then bolt it down with the original bolt on one side first the the other. The replacement of valve can be done without taking the dash out.
50/160 psi…definitely the expansion valve, the pipe shows condensation now. Thanks qavion! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes it’s possible, I changed mine yesterday, it’s a PITA though, don’t forget to replace the 4 green O rings,I didn’t catch that on the diagram (couldn’t find it) But had a kit of AC o rings and replaced them
how did you get the cover off? Only 1 screw? Mine seems sealed in place and won't budge. I am starting to think removing the dash may be the only way to access it from the top.
Update: Pressure, time, and heat I was finally able to get my cover off and not break anything! I didnt want to now, but removing the dash and getting access through the air bag made it possible! Old EV out, new EV in. I will put vacuum on it tomorrow, and leave it for a long while, and pumping more vacuum while I get the leather issue sorted. In theory, I could reconnect the instrument cluster and air bag and test the A/C system... I am going to pump a lot of vacuum first. Image Unavailable, Please Login There are two screws holding the cover on and the adhesive. It seems like this cover hold the evaporator in place! I am only replacing the screws. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login