Restoring my 1989 Mondial t

Deoxit! Get some and spray it on all the connections you can find hit the fuse relay box connections with it too.. It's the best stuff out there. Yes, you should have her rear window defogger in your coupe, cabrioles don't have them because the rear window is plastic. You're unresponsive passenger side window, which I guess by that you mean the right side, (passenger side and driver side are useless terms because it could be a left hand or right-hand drive car) could be a connection or could be the motor has failed further investigation warranted. Guido already answered your question about the parking lights.
When I was working on my door locks I actually had to clean, deoxit the connectors and then zip tie them together tightly, you might try that too.
Did you get one of Afterburner's wiring diagrams? If not, you should.
Also, if it's any comfort to you, the other day, my 37-year-old Italian girlfriend decided that I didn't need dash lights, time for some service work on the fuse relay panel box! The joys of Ferrari ownership!
Alden

 

Don't put ANY chemical product on the plastic layers of the fuse board !! it will eat the plastic layers...

 

Deoxit is plastic safe, but if you have the original laminated board, I don't think it's a good idea to spray anything on the board itself. It's a good idea to take a look at the board and see if it is delaminating and needs to be replaced with one of Guido's boards or a GT parts board.
Alden

 

Do you still have your original fuse board? If not, you should just go ahead and upgrade it now.You'd be surprised how much better it'll make your entire electrical system.
With all the other work you've done, it just makes sense to do that. It's one of the best upgrades you can do for a Mondial.
Alden

 

Did you check connectivity between those 2 points also ?

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Those 2 points are internal connected. From fuse 19 lower contact to that burned contact. Test also that contact next to that burned one on the right side going to fuse 17 lower contact.Seems to me there is also heat building.
If you have no connection or to high resistance, means your copper layers are going south.
Fuse counting on the back side of your fuse board, fuse 1 (not existing) counts also.

 

Without seeing the board in person, it's difficult to tell, but I think you have an original laminated board that will start delaminate sooner than later. Here's a pic of my GT parts board. As you can see, it's a different color. You would know if you had Guido's board, simply look at the back, it's wired up point to point like a Russian tank!
Alden
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The picture I posted in #110 is wrong....it should be like this.
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You can get one from GT parts in Arizona or Guido who has been posting here.
The differences are Guido's board is wired point point with regular wire on the back, and you have to replace all the connectors, which is probably a really good idea but tedious to do.
The GT parts board is is pretty much plug and Play, although with my board I've still had to replace three connectors that overheated on the fuel pump and condenser fan circuits.
If you see burn marks on the white connectors that go to the fuse/relay board then probably need to replace them. Pic of pigtails that I replaced them with below.
Alden
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i researched all of this a few years ago for my 85 QV Euro - You want the new board from Guido - it's bullet proof, uses blade fuses and eliminates gremlins (old and new board below):

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Guido board installed:

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The GT parts board uses blade fuses too. The differences are:
1:Guido's board is not a conventional circuit board, it is hard wired point to point.
2:With Guido's board you have to cut off the old connectors and install new connectors on EVERY individual connection on the board. You also have to modify the white connectors so the larger connectors will fit.
There are about 70 or more individual connectors on the board.
This is probably a good modification, but tedious to do and you have to be careful not to mix up the connectors.
With the GT parts board you just plug in the white connectors as they are.
The laminated board and the female connectors are the weak part of the OEM board. The OEM female connectors have less clamping force, can become loose and have less contact area.Guido's solves these problems, but it's more difficult to do the installation.
I didn't know that I had a GT parts board iny car until I posted a pic here and GT contacted me and told me I had one of their boards.
That being the case, I still had to replace the 2 female connectors for the fuel pump on the W connector and the one for the condenser fan on the left side of the board.
Pics below show the burnt W connector, the OEM connectors and the 3/16" connectors I used to replaced them.
So the choice is yours. If I was doing this myself now, I would use Guido's board, but I don't mind taking the time to replace all the female connectors. As it is my GT parts board works well, but I still give it "maintenance" every 4 years or so. Remove it from the car and check solder joints, and I replace ALL the fuses and relays and spray the contacts with Deoxit. If I had Guido's board, I would probably not have to do this.
Alden
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Just one person's opinion below, based on experience installing a "Guido" board but maybe this helps the OP make a better informed decision....

 

I guess you didn't read my entire post. I have a GT parts board in my car that was installed over 12 years ago by the previous owner. I didn't install it, I just been maintaining it for my 10+ years of ownership.
Alden

 

Thanks - I did and no offense intended which is why I started by replying "Just one person's opinion below, based on experience installing a "Guido" board but maybe this helps the OP make a better informed decision...."

 

Looks like someone used it as extension for a safety lamp with that long wire.Just a ges.