1987 328 gts resurrection

There are two relays involved in operating the 328 fuel pump and a connection in the passenger footwell that can be troublesome. See this thread:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/328-fuel-pump-relay.708294

 

Is a BMW part, ill post a link tomorrow

 

Hi there, I noticed my engine was running strong at start and dying immediately after - seemed to happen to suddenly to be fuel related IMO (i.e. I assumed was an electrical issue). I noticed it died when I released the key from 'start' to 'run' position. It was on my list to troubleshoot further but then I also noticed my ignition was 'notchy' and the key would jam trying to turn to 'start' position - on a desperate whim I decided to replace the electrical portion of the ignition switch with the goal of addressing the notchy action of my key.

I crawled under the dash and swapped out the electrical portion of the switch in-situ and was delighted that the car fired right up and continued to run. Unfortunately it did not fix the notchy feel of the key, but I'll deal with that later.

Now I of course can't promise this will fix your run issue, nor if the 328 uses the same ignition switch electrical parts ( I think it does - maybe search this forum for the part number below), but I found a thread somewhere on here indicating that Ferrari and BMW (2002 maybe?) use the same ignition electrical switch. FCP Euro had one and the price was competitive.

Apparently there are inexpensive generic versions, and better OEM versions available for BMW, I went with genuine.

BMW Switch - Genuine BMW 61312682120
Apparently this is Ferrari part number 70000707 and a quick search indicates AW Italian might be able to rebuild these? Nevertheless I would not throw out the old one.

Hope this helps.
-Mike
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Hmm, is it possible someone switched the wires of those 2 connectors ?
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Ground connection between engine and chassis ?Did you try a direct connection with a wire between engine and ground battery ?

 

I'm of course disappointed to hear the ignition switch didn't solve your issue and I hope there are no hard feelings. On the brightside you now have a new ignition switch which should last another 40 years.

Have you tried hot-wiring the fuel pump (putting 12V directly to the pump with a jumper wire)?

 

Hate to rain on your parade, I read your first post, and here we are 13 pages later. Burglar alarms that kids installed in the eighties. wired by someone who probably doesn't have a schematic, are a source of grief later in life. BUT if your fuel pump is dead, the electrical schematic is your best friend and this is basic electrical troubleshooting.

Steve's link is right on the money. Make a jumper and plug it into the fuel pump relay and your fuel pump should be on- period. Terminals 30 and 87. Flip the relay upside down to figure out which terminals to jumper from. If the pump doesn't come on, ASSUME you have the terrific wiring diagram book, look at it and analyze where the fuel pump gets its voltage to run from. Almost DIRECT from the battery going through the fuse and to the relay. The ignition switch turns on Relay ":U" directly above the fuel pump relay, which powers the primary side of other relays. Terminal 30 on the fuel pump relay, comes from fuse 20 and should be HOT at all times. Check that it is with a voltmeter. Terminal 87 goes to the fuel pump, but goes through two terminals- if the fuel pump is not running and you have POWER to terminal 87, one of these connectors is probably bad. Not rocket science.

Throwing parts at problems is NOT the smart way to solve problems. Sometimes this is why it's better to just take your car to an experienced mechanic. Experienced mechanics, don't change parts, they troubleshoot and solve the problem. When I ran my shop, I LOVED electrical problems.

Not reading all of your posts, I don't know what the burglar alarm installation controlled. Did it disable the car and have an alarm? If it was able to disable the car, HOW did they accomplish that? Lots of ways to do this, but you can't willy- nilly just unhook wires and figure all is well. You seem to be chasing your tail.

I have FOUR 328's so I have samples to look at if necessary. One which I purchased recently has a Clifford alarm that I am going to remove. LOTS of extra JUNK under the dash.

 

Try a different ...101 relay in the "Fuel Injection Delivery Pump Starting-Relay" (Relay S) position, plug the fuel pump relay back in, and retest with the blue plug (safety switch) disconnected.

 

Don't be disheartened. If jumpering the fuel pump relay makes the fuel pump come on, you've eliminated HALF of your circuit, It means from terminal 87 to the fuel pump- you're good. Does everything else in the car function electrically- any other dead components? Jumpering the fuel pump, does the car start and run- it should? Using a voltmeter check for voltage from terminal 30 to terminal 86. This is checking that the pump relay has a good ground on the draw in coil circuit. Your voltmeter should read battery voltage, even with ignition off. Just for grins, put a jumper in relay U terminal 30 and 87. relay U is directly above the fuel pump relay. Try starting the car.
Check with a voltmeter that you have battery voltage at terminal 30 and terminal 86 on relay "U". 86 is the ground for the draw in coil- same ground that's used for the fuel pump relay terminal 86. A few voltage checks take seconds to do, and it eliminates a lot of head scratching and guessing.

Your fuel pump relay gets it's ON voltage from Relay S from terminal 30. If you remove relay "S" and just apply voltage to terminal 30 on the board- your fuel pump relay should turn on and the fuel pump should run. Doing this gets one more part checked out and eliminated. I guess if you did this FIRST, and the fuel pump turns on, that means the GROUND for relays U and R is good. We're just logically blasting through the circuit at this point. While you have relay S out, check voltages at terminals 86 and 87A, they should BOTH have battery voltage. Terminal 87 is hot with the ignition on. This relay operates by the switch in the air flow meter providing the ground to the draw in coil via terminal 85.

Do these checks and you're running out of possibilities and you have a GOOD chance of finding out what's wrong. This is electricity 101 compared to so many newer cars with computers. If I was installing a burglar alarm on one of these cars- I would be using a relay or switch right in this circuit to disable the car. You won't see it at the relays, but with work at terminal block "W" I AM NOT looking at my cars for this information, this is just analyzing the schematic. I regularly trouble shoot machine tools that have electrical cabinets with 100's of motor starters ( relays), timers, transformers. Electrical cabinets that are huge weighing over a thousand pounds. So these cars, are kind of simple at this point.

Unlike high quality electrical cabinets in machine tools that use SCREW in terminals and terminal blocks, car manufacturers unfortunately use lots of plug in connectors. Terminals that rely on spring tension don't work very well after thirty years of relatively high amperage, heating them up and the metal fatiguing. So we're trying to FIND that possibly weak connector, that you're fortunate enough to have NOT working while your car is conveniently in your shop. There's an UPSIDE to everything.

 

Try this same test with a different ...113 relay in the "key controlled services relay" (relay U) position. Do your electric windows work (before trying a different relay U)?

 

Interesting that your car runs for three seconds and shuts off, WITH the fuel pump relay bypassed. You STILL need to make the checks outlined above, to try and determine WHY your fuel pump is not turning on without the jumper. Steve's suggestion on the "U" relay is good but if jumping it doesn't change anything, you still have to check out the voltages and grounds.

While you MAY think you've removed the burglar alarm wiring- who KNOWS where and what they did to immobilize the car. The car HAS to run if it has spark and fuel, and if one of those disappears, it's going to die. You have to ascertain which one of the two is getting turned off. Applying a HOT wire to terminal 30 of the relay "S" with the relay removed, is a very revealing test- do it. The other two relays need to be plugged in.