May be, it is strange, also the connector seems to be original, not an aftermarket plug. I just want to make sure this is not an original cable that should be connected somewhere Thanks Guido
Or something from the safety belt system (just in the middle of this diagram you see a connector just like yours) https://www.eurospares.co.uk/Ferrari/Mondial/Mondial_3.4_t_Coupe_Cabrio/PartDiagrams/119B/Passive_Safety_Belts_System?ref=028
Gentlemen, I need help, I am very frustrated today. I cannot get my left side / drivers side window to work. The motor / regulator works perfect when powered directly. The window switch works perfectly The power cable shown in the photo at the center of the switch, (white) has continuity when tested from the switch to the fuse box The fuse box has connectivity everywhere I tested including the points marked by @theunissenguido in his photo above The relay for the windows works as it should (the passenger window works perfect) Not sure where to go from here. Thank you all for any feedback. Image Unavailable, Please Login
"The motor / regulator works perfect when powered directly." is this with the motor in the door ? So, there should be good ground connection ?Try to connect ground elsewhere to the chassis, not only on the door.
Ricardo The pax window switch in the driver's door works? The grounds are grounded? I have done the window diagram if you are interested.
@afterburner Yes, the pax window works from the drivers door. I am not sure the grounds are grounded, I will check. Can you confirm that all the cables in the switch are grounds except the white cable in the center? If they are, then I would think that testing *continuity* between all these 4 cables and the chassis would confirm they are grounded? Yes, I’ love to have the diagram, I will pay you later today. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ric the black ones are permanent grounds. The white/red one is the incoming 12V for the pax window from fuse 20 ( or 19 - there is an inconsistency between the diagrams and the OM on the fuse numbering). The yellow and blue yellow would switch between 12V and ground depending on the switch position. This blue yellow is blue only on the diagram - I'll update that later. Same for the driver's window - White/black in the middle is the power from fuse 19 (or 18 according to the OM). Can you send me pic of the driver's window switch plug with the colors pls? Thanks.
Hi Urs Thank you for the information.I believe this photo is the drivers switch but I will confirm this evening when I get home and will send you photos accordingly. Did you receiver the PayPal payment? Thanks
Good morning Urs I was unable to take the photos for the switches, I will send tonight. I woke up this morning thinking of a strange connection I found at my fuse board which I disconnected when I started cleaning up all the wireing and now I think this was done by the former owner to fix the window problem and maybe also for the back window defroster What can you think of this photos? What to you think they were doing? I disconnected the cables so I will have to recreate this connection and test. Please send me your comments. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fuse number three is for the heated rear window, but my diagram shows that that relay goes to the horn?? This is for my 3.2 your T may be different. Alden View attachment 3861611 Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thank you Alden I will work with this over the weekend and see if I can recreate the connection to troubleshoot and fix
This might explain why your heated rear window doesn't work... Someone took its power to use on the horn? The mess there might be an indication of an internal fault of the electric board. Working on the next t-diagrams... there are some wiring differences to the previous cars.
Yes, I am going to try and recreate the patch shown on my photos. although I did not test at the time of removing this patch, the defroster and the window were working. If I get them to work, then what I will do is to run cable inside the fuese box from point to point, this for the time being while I decide to change or not to change the board. This will be an interesting weekend at the garage and hopefully not too frustrating Thanks
@afterburner As per your request, here is the photo for the switch for the passenger window. (Car is left hand drive) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
@afterburner Uts, got home and tried to recreate the contraption to set up the fuse as it was before. I thought this could get the driver’s window to operate but it did NOT. What happened next is that the horn is not working now. I tested the fuese and the relay, I tested continuity from the fuse to the relay and its good, I tested voltage at the relay and it is good 12V so now I don’t know what is going on. Another think I noticed is that the relay for the windows is getting hot while the ignition switch is on. The passenger window works, the driver window does NOT work and the relay gets hot. Please let me know what you think. Thanks
1) Ricardo I suppose you have switched over the window switches to see if your driver's switch has internally failed? 2) A relay getting hot to me is an indication that it needs to be changed.. I would definitely buy at least one new of each type and while trouble shooting use a new one just to rule out a flaky relay. It obviously works because both side's windows get powered by the same relay. 3) Can you take a pic of the pax side window motor switch plug? I am updating the diagram with your colors. 4) Fuse 18 should be driver's window, 19 pax' window. Please pull fuse 19 and check if the pax window stops working. 5) Fuse 18 also powers the heated rear window. Check that fuse. 6) plug G at the fuse board should have the white/black wire 7) Plug I should have the white/red wire
Urs, her my answers: 1) Ricardo I suppose you have switched over the window switches to see if your driver's switch has internally failed? RS: YES WSITCH IS TESTED AND WORKS WELL 2) A relay getting hot to me is an indication that it needs to be changed.. I would definitely buy at least one new of each type and while trouble shooting use a new one just to rule out a flaky relay. It obviously works because both side's windows get powered by the same relay. RS: I HAVE A NEW RELAY AND WILL REPLACE AND TEST. 3) Can you take a pic of the pax side window motor switch plug? I am updating the diagram with your colors. RS: I DID AND POSTED IT (I POSTED 2 PHOTOS OF THE SWITCH BOTH SIDES 4) Fuse 18 should be driver's window, 19 pax' window. Please pull fuse 19 and check if the pax window stops working. RS: WILL DO, I DID REPLACE ALL THE FUESES FOR BRAND NEW HIGH QUALITY UNITS AND TESTED ALL, ALL WORK WELL 5) Fuse 18 also powers the heated rear window. Check that fuse. RS: FUSE IS NEW AND IN PERFECT WORKING ORDER 6) plug G at the fuse board should have the white/black wire RS: NOT SURE WHICH IS PLUG "G" BUT WILL FIGURE IT OUT AND FIDNT HE WHITE / BLACK WIRE 7) Plug I should have the white/red wire RS: NOT SURE WHICH IS PLUG "I" BUT WILL FIGURE IT OUT AND FIDNT HE WHITE / RED
3) so one pic was the pax switch in the driver's door and the other pic in the pax door? To me it looks like they are in the same (driver's) door. Those wires are located in the multiplugs horizontally located at the bottom of the electric board.
The cable at the center is white Black on the passenger side while it is white and red on the Drivers side
GOOD NEWS Got the window and rear defroster to work. So what happened is that when I pulled out one of the connectors to clean it for better connectivity, I placed it back in the wrong spot so it was not connecting to anything. As soon as I moved it to the right place window and defroster started working. The only thing pending is the horn which I hope to fix tomorrow.
Relay temperature question. Are relays supposed to get a little hot? These ones are heating up on me, not to hot but a little. Image Unavailable, Please Login
