2004 360 Alternator light on

Also, don't even think about installing a 140 amp in the car. You will have untraceable electrical issues that no shop will attribute to the alternator replacement. The electrical systems are very sensitive as are the ECUs and sensors that send data to them. I've had issues on my 360, 430s and Cali T. Buy the OEM unit and be done with it for another 10-15 years.

 

I haven't been able to find one that could get here in the time I have alloted. All I find are new but 140a, reman, or back ordered.

 

I just ordered and installed one. There are a few available. The dealer network had like 10 available 2 weeks ago at $1,100.00. It's pricey but it will save you money in the long run.

 

The 140 amp units will need a smaller pulley to generate the needed power at the correct RPM, otherwise you will have strange electrical issues including F1 issues, misfires, ect. The ones that "work" may work for a while but when you try driving on the highway regularly (like I do), the alternator RPM will be beyond tolerance and start melting down everything around it. This happens due to the smaller pulley turns the shaft faster than typical as our cars cruise at 4K RPM on the highway, pushing the alternator to about 8K rpm + when it should be 6K. I just went through it. This is one of the many reasons you cannot rebuild or go aftermarket on some parts of the Ferrari, compared to, say, a Corvette. If you don't drive your car, I guess it doesn't matter but I drive my cars daily so the cracks show much faster. All the remanufactured ones I've ordered or had rebuilt failed quickly. The aftermarket units are plain JUNK. OEM Denso is a night and day difference. I will be posting a side-by-side comparison soon.

 

I would call Ferrari Central Florida. They will email you a CC auth form and send it right to you. I wouldn't be so insistent but I have been through this on 3 cars - my most recent was due to the supplier sending me an aftermarket one advertised as OEM. The OEM arrived from Scuderia and ALL THE ISSUES disappeared. Runs like new now.

I would also replace the battery. Just a regular lead-acid battery. That way, you're starting off on the right foot.

 

Again, none were avail on the time I have to get the car together. I'm aware of the importance of the OEM output vs 140a. The rebuild is done and it's going into the car for now. My hope was that somebody else has done the same and it turned out well.

Looks like i will need to keep an eye out for an OEM part to swap in, after all. That's too bad.

 

One more thing - while you're in there, check the belt tensioner pulley. Spin it, listen. If there's resistance or noise, replace it. It's a 30 second R&R. You don't always have to, but I replaced by OEM alternator, tensioner pulley, belt and battery at the same time. For the price of ONE TOW, all this can be done lol.

 

Again, it may work fine for you. Keep an eye for any unexplained electrical issues or smells, etc. It's easy to misdiagnose an ongoing issue as a harness, relay, etc., only to find out the alternator caused everything. I JUST went through this. Even the frequency of my turn signals would change slightly when the brake was depressed! Then the misfires. The list got thicker over time. So if anything happens, don't panic or throw parts at it - just assume it's the alternator.

 

All parts checked/replaced when I did the timing belts.

Exactly.

On a side note, the shop I used is researching a bit more for a different regulator. If he finds one, they're willing to swap it out for free.
IF it works, it would be a $400 rebuild, with ZERO Chinese parts (including bearings) versus an $1,100 alternator.