Hi all, I just purchased 430 spider about a month ago, and enjoyed a blissful month of top-down driving. Unfortunately, it appears that one of my main lift cylinders blew a seal, and drained most of the hydraulic reservoir while closing the top. Looking at options now. Couple of questions: 1. It appears that at least one Fchatter (@priericky128) has successfully replaced these cylinders without having to remove the entire capote cassette (as recommended in the FSM): https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/convertible-main-lift-cylinders.673253/ Has anyone else successfully completed the procedure outlined by the above post? If so, can you share your experience?. I'm thinking of using rebuilt cylinders from Top Hydraulics. 2. I'm also looking at just having a local shop do the work. I'm in the Chicago area. If anyone has had this work done, can you let me know the shop and how much it cost? Thank you! PS -- despite this issue with the main lift cylinder, the top-down driving experience is worth it for the enhanced soundtrack you get from the engine. I'm surprised at how much a difference it makes (I've been driving with the top up since this issue occurred and miss the top down experience dearly!).
I think others have done it too I just happened to document it. The removal is easy: there is a pin at the top and the bottom. Remove the leather covers over the pump and the driver side, then remove both top and bottom pins and the cylinder lifts out. Make sure you note where washers are and don’t drop any of them. the driver side cylinder requires removal of the rear carpet to fish the line back to the pump. You need to remove that anyway since it’s probably coated in oil from the failure. you can do all the work with a pair of husky picks and a screwdriver.
Thank you -- that just gave me the confidence to do this on my own! Just a couple of questions: 1. Can you remove both pins and the cylinder from the inside of the car once the leather covers and rear carpet, or do you have to access the top pin from the top side with the tonneau cover slid back? 2. Did you perform this with the top in the open or closed position? Really appreciate your insights on this!
you can remove the lower pin from inside the car, but you have to be outside the car to remove the top pin, it comes from the top. I put the top folded like in the photo (comments that partially operating your top causes issues are imho melarchy). I was doing a bunch of other work, so I took off the rear engine lid and the capote cover to avoid damaging them and to give me more room. I think you could open it and prop the capote cover with a 2x4 and then pull it out (but test it and see, ymmv, it's been 2.5 years since I did this). I had to fix the entire kinematic motion because mine was off, so I did not have to worry about screwing up any fitment of the capote to begin with. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I am doing this now but rebuilding them myself using seals from MJ Produkte- I am replacing the outer shaft seal- mine were ok but also the teflon ram seal as my roof was struggling to lift. I notice not many people replace that. The worst part of the job is getting the wire lock back in to place and the teflon seals are very rigid and hard to get over the ram into the groove. When you see it you will think its the wrong size. They are not hard to rebuild yourself having paid top Hydraulics to do my lock ram and the 2 small centre roof rams in future I would do them all DIY. The rams are compatible with Mercedes SLK r170
Please let me know how the removal and replacement of the cylinders themselves goes, and share some pictures if possible!
Also -- is it easy to remove the hydraulic lines from the hydraulic pump? Was just looking at it, and seems like the fittings are secured by a bronze colored retaining plate. Does that whole plate just get removed (I did not yet remove the cable ties, so the lines are obstructing my view a bit).
it's easy. you back out the center retaining bolt (it has a wide head) and then it comes loose. Just keep track of which lines go where. i reversed a pair once...not good.
Thanks for the quick reply! And haha -- I'll keep track of those lines (plan on taking lots of pics before disassembly!
Working on this now and hit a little snag -- the removal of the pin for the top of the cylinder is hitting other mechanism parts -- do I have to remove a couple of the pins holding those other mechanism parts to clear a path? See pic. Thanks in advance!
PS --- I tried moving the top mechanism to find a spot where the pin would clear both mechanism parts that were in the way, but it would only clear one.
Thanks, Priericky -- see attached. The green circle shows the pin at the top of the cylinder, which needs to move in the direction of the green arrow. The red circle shows the mechanism that is interfering with the removal of the pin (I tried with the roof in various positions, but I couldn't seem to find a position that worked). Thank you! Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'll look at my car tonight or early tomorrow and am let you know. I don't 100% remember but maybe a few other clips need to come off. I don't remember doing that, but it's been a while since I did it.
I looked at my top last night. That part does swing out of the way but I don't remember which way I did it. There are two fasteners in my box with the "1" on it which you can detach and swing that part out of the way. Also I vaguely remember doing the clip in box "2", i think that is how I slid it out of the way. that arm that's in the way can be detached from what i remember, you just have to pick the simplest way to do it. There is a middle knuckle that has a small circlip on it too that can come off. Sorry I can't be more specific, I'd need to start fiddling with it again to job my memory. Image Unavailable, Please Login
That's very helpful--thanks very much! It's what I was thinking, but was afraid to start taking off more. Will give it a try!
Well, good news is that I fixed the issue. I feel a little silly, but I misdiagnosed the faulty cylinder. Turns out the driver's side secondary cylinder (right above the seat) was leaking down and spraying the main lift cylinder on the same side (making it look like the main lift cylinder was leaking). Replaced both secondary cylinders and roof is operating perfectly now. Easy job on those secondary cylinders -- used Top Hydraulics and the lines fortunately can be removed at the cylinders. As others have said, the screws holding the lines in are torqued quite significantly, and a good pair of vice grip needle nose pliers was needed to back them out (the small hex heads started to strip and I didn't want to push it). Top down driving experience is back -- it was missed!
