What have you done to your Ferrari Today?

Yesterday I took off my rear lid. I can’t believe how easy that was with my neighbors help. So much more room to work on the motor! Today I soaked the left half shaft bolts in Aero Kroil. Then replaced the fuel filter and fuel lines. Tomorrow I will replace the CV boots, one torn. I just hope I can get it unbolted. Then carb rebuild and check the valve clearance.

 

Is the lid particularly heavy? I've heard that it is.

 

No I think 60lb. Not sure but for two people it’s easy.

 

Where did you get the carpet?

 

Did you notice any weight difference between the alu tank and original?

 

The alloy expansion tank I bought from SuperFormance was about 3oz lighter than my rusty original. I can't say I noticed an improvement in acceleration due to the weight savings.

 

Yes, lighter by a good margin. Surprisingly identical appearance also. I must say the price was steep for the part but understand and appreciate the fact of low production vs profit

 

My tech fix my stuck hazard switch on my 86 328 GTS . A big thanks to Jamtek who posted on March 20,2008 , how to repair the hazard switch including pictures and all is well , no need to buy a new one( was ready to pull the trigger and buy BMW 2002 hazard switch w/c cost $112 USD ) , tech was able to repair it .

 

I was getting annoyed with the lack of places to put stuff and my phone (for navigation) during longer trips.
I went ahead and finally removed my never used blaupunkt and put a modular frame in its place. For now with a gyroscopic cupholder and a magsafe iPhone magnet and charger. All nicely integrated and completely modular.
Printed from PA12-CF, in order to withstand increased temps and strong enough to even hold my ipad.

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And in the car:
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Maybe some inspiration ;-)
Regards

 

Sell one of these to me please!

I would prefer the phone mount to be in the left position, but it looks like they are swappable? That they screw into the plate? That's a good design, as it would allow the end user to decide (or blank off one of the holes if they don't need it.

 

Neat idea. Good for you.

 

Yesterday I cleaned repacked and installed new CV boots on the driver side. Today I was doing the passenger side and found this on the outer CV. The boot was ripped but it was full of grease, I was hoping all would be ok but I found this.

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I really wanted to finish today not wait for parts. Maybe next week.

 

How big of a job is a CV joint replacement?

 

Not very big. The hardest part is getting the Allen bolts off. You need to let them smoke in penetration oil over night. I had two that my impact almost did not remove. Be careful not to strip the Allen heads.

 

When I did mine I borrowed a 4' extention from a garage. This will allow you to easly take out the Allen head from about 6" beyond the fender.

I would recommend an Amazon or hardware store search for something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-00216L-Drive-Extension-Chrome-Vanadium/dp/B002GWC3GE/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2KNB8G3A5OUOY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.WtmBVmPvTxm5bgiNWseiLHVHWPXHlY4csiXLO9laqHD6iTwvRLL0sWvlAFLx9pGSqISrBQD5luMfbbrMEN9Tj_RyaG2utCFmtbqbQbbi6YB_wwTHh4i1sqlZGtnaqxJnaEarlAKPpJELpC8H5415-TIctONsTxNPx62mrG9-mTKhp6s8PEC7N31dV7-_A6CyThN-PHDwPfDGUqapRe1J4T-t2AntGtbrJ4LP3czIqA3nOSW6IfJTK-K0VoOkZFiGRjRfiqZMAcfP2D-f2JEDn9amc6BhS1O5cNDrpBEONO0.uIiHTiUb_ikRmFuHGjYZEnQyALtFs-7ZfEYZTdRc080&dib_tag=se&keywords=3%2F4+extension+long&qid=1755999914&s=hi&sprefix=3%2F4+extension+long%2Ctools%2C154&sr=1-9
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I would agree extensions make the job much easier, but you don't need a 4 foot one. As I recall, I used a couple of extensions that totaled about 24". In any case, use enough extension(s) to allow you to have room to control the torque and pull evenly on the ratchet. The breakaway torque to loosen the CV joint bolts is substantial. You will want to rotate the axle so each fastener will in turn be readily accessible.

 

Also helps to cut the hex part of the socket to the exact depth of the hex in the bolt to stop any twisting. I broke 2 sockets getting the bolts off my car.

 

Thanks guys. I do have a long extension I used. I wish I thought of cutting the socket. I screwed mine up getting the second one off. I wish I did not have to wait for the new part to get here.

 

Also, you will notice the nuts have these cuts on them. As far as I can tell they are designed to lock in place as long as there is pressure. Once the strain is released, they get realy loose and easy to remove.
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Just did my passenger side this weekend.

The driver side joint (at least on a '82 308) has a lot more room to get the inner bolts off. You don't need an extension really, just reach up there from the bottom and there's plenty of room.

The passenger side is a different story (as I found this weekend). The exhaust is mostly in the way making it impossible to get to that inner joint from underneath.

You'll need an extension, I used a 10 inch which was just fine. I don't know that I would recommend a really long extension just because it's VERY easy for those allen bolts to be stripped and you want to have an eyeball on there so you KNOW the hex is fully seated. From that far away you'd just be guessing.

I also would not recommend in any way shape or form to use an impact on them. Really good way to strip them and then your life is going to suck... hard.

Put some penetrant on all of them. You could let them sit overnight, I didn't. I put it on, got my tools together and started the job... might have set for 20 minutes?

You just want to make sure you don't strip the things. I used a 1/2 normal ratchet and was able to get them to move. They are on there TIGHT so you gotta pull hard, which again make sure the thing is seated.

Getting the bolts out is almost the hardest part. But if you do dismantle the joint it can get tricky getting it back together correctly.

I put mine in a parts washer and cleaned and inspected without removing the cage.

It's also helpful to remove the parking brake line on the passenger side since the rear is the best vantage point to get to those inners and that cable is right in the way of a ratchet.

 

Glad you got them all lose. On my 78 on the driver side I had to take the wheel liner out then it was an easy straight shot to the inner bolts, on the passenger side I had a straight line to the inners without removing the liner. In my case I used the impact because I could push in and make sure it stayed firmly seated.

 

Did my semi-annual A/C recharge. Ugh...

Yeah. I know. Future project.

 

Spent the weekend diagnosing a case of excessive stiction in my throttle return action.
Pardon me sir, can you direct me to my throttle linkage...

Ahhh....there you are.....

Well that's not looking so hot....

The main culprit: ancient grease masquerading as molasses....

And molasses is being charitable: the pivot's backside washer was so adhered to the pivot that I thought it was part of a bushing for the bearing. It took two, 30-minute rounds in the ultrasonic cleaner at 180 degrees to separate it. Throttle pedal mechanism was also contributing to the stiction, but not as much as this pivot.
Now the dilemma is - after going to the trouble to strip the carb linkage and half the fuel lines - whether to overhaul the carbs or not. Ugh.
- Dave

 

IIRC, the last time that I did this job I turned the axle so that I could rest the extension across the brake caliper and use it as a fulcrum point and keep the Allen bit straight into the bolt head. It also allows 2 hands on the ratchet to maximize torque. Once positioned set the parking brake to keep the axle from rotating. OK I may be joking here after all it's a Ferrari 308 and the parking brake is usually dismal at best but it's worth a try.

The most important thing is to completely clean out the recess in the bolt head before inserting the socket, a good rap or two on the ratchet end of the extension with a hammer also inserts the socket as far as possible for maximum torque transfer and minimizes the possibility of stripping the bolt head.

 

I disassembled one carb and put it in the sonic cleaner. It came out really good. I only had time to do one, tomorrow I will do I the others. It has 200 F30 130. It seems like I read somewhere on here 140 are better with modern fuel. I believe the motor in my 78 is from an euro 79 GT4. Also it has 32 choks. Has anyone used different choks?

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