New 328 GTS owner - quick questions

Took delivery of a beautiful 1987 car this weekend, 29k miles, all major service completed in July.

Looking for help/guidance on my short list:
1. Sourcing second ignition key - how to get my one and only key replicated?
2. CTEK trickle charger connection tips - I have three adapters, looking for solutions, is cigarette lighter an option or direct connect to battery terminals?
3. What product to use on the black vinyl top and spoiler? It’s a little faded but overall excellent condition.
4. Driver door marker light is not lighting up. How does this housing come out so I can check the bulb? If it’s not the bulb, any other common issues with this light? Passenger door works perfect.

Some pictures below to refer to. Appreciate any and all help! Thank you…

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I have had 'non charging" issues when a CTEK charger is connected to my '89 328's cigarette lighter. I installed a fused pigtail to the battery and no further problem. When connected to the cig lighter, the Ctek initially showed proper indications but days later it was showing "not connected." I could unplug it/replug it and it would again show proper indications...for a few days. No idea why but that's what it did.

I use Chemical Guys Black on Black for the black trim and think it works great. But I'm sure there are many such products that work well.

I replaced door bulbs many years ago but can't remember any details and I'm 4000 miles from the car so I can't walk out to the garage and look/refresh my memory!

 

Congratulations on your new ride!

Blank Keys (not OEM, but blank spares to keep your OEM set to the side): https://clarkandclarkinc.com/catalog/ferrari

Battery Tender: I have the exact setups "mike996" describes ('89 on a CTEK, 1st to cig plug, now pigtailed direct to the battery) and have the same issue. After 5-7 days the CTEK errors out. I have a hunch parasitic drain (back EMF?) may be confusing the charger and it goes into protection mode. But it's not really a big deal and I prefer the pigtail set-up.

Door light: 2 screws. Pulls right out. Replacement bulbs are readily available.

 

Aside from any aftermarket radio that drains too much power I can tell you the standby battery drain on these cars is really low. This car is remarkably reliable and I have 80K miles. The trick is just keep up the routine service and drive it enough. But if you keep on top of it, it will run like new forever.

You'll find its a little better when engine and gearbox are warmed up than cold. Then you can let it rip. That's when it comes alive and shows what's so special about it.

Its not a modern car. Sometimes it takes a bit of getting use to. But its quirks are what makes it special.

 

I had the same issues in the cig socket with unreliable connection with the CTek, I now use the Hella socket below the steering column, it gives a much more positive connection

 

The door marker light comes out eith the two little scews, dont lose them. There is a wire connector on the end that is probably corroded. Clean the connectors, I use Deoxit on all electrical connections, and it should work. It could just be the bulb, or possible the doodr switch on thst side is not working. But taking it out to hzve a look at things is very simple.

 

Thank you for all the help above!

 

If you can find a Ferrari F50 key, that would work for your car. But, it is very pricey now.

 

Rick, Regarding the inop Door Jamb Marker Light….if it’s not the bulb, chances are it’s one (or both) of the door jamb switches. Issues range from the ubiquitous bad ground to the switch internals self-immolating.
Search the forums for relevant posts; there are many.
Congrats on the new toy and welcome.
- Dave

 

Thanks Dave. Hopefully a bulb or something else straight forward, if not I’ll dig deeper..

 

The original key is a folding key, Originals come up for sale occasionally but are pricey,,
There was a guy on here that made a bunch of them, really good replica’s but not sure if they are still available

 

Sourced the driver door light issue (not illuminating when door open). If I gently wiggle or apply pressure to the top door pressure switch, both the lower red marker light and the white light by the door handle illuminate momentarily.
Will go down that switch debug path this weekend. Hopefully it’s easy to remove with the screw covered by the cap. Ran out of time tonight.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Thanks Mike - I used the Black on Black and it came out fantastic. I wiped it down after a minute or so to knock off the shine, thank you again!

Now I just have the door switch, looking at that tomorrow.

 

Just to back up what others have said, with regular maintenance and driving the 328 is a very reliable car. I have 85k on mine and take it for a 30-50 mile drive every 2-3 weeks.

 

Thanks Kevin and that is my plan as long as the salt stays off the road this winter!

 

The roof and spoiler are fiberglass gelcoat. People often mistake it for vinyl or some type of trim material, but it is fiberglass gelcoat over a fiberglass part. The mold for these parts was surfaced so the final result has a grained appearance (similar to non-skid surfaces on a fiberglass boat or bathtub).

Be very careful what product you apply to these surfaces, as gelcoat will absorb certain products containing silicone or other soft trim reconditioners, and then you're screwed in the future if you ever want to restore it properly. I see this problem in the marine world -- someone will get silicone sealant or coating on their gelcoat and then it can no longer be repaired or restored since no proper products will stick to it any more.

Take care of those parts like you would the fiberglass/gelcoat finish on a boat, or even the painted surfaces of your car. A good wax, sealant, polish, or ceramic product is the way to go. Do not use anything intended for plastic or trim.

 

The folding key blank is available but not cheap at £754 (@$1016) plus delivery (and tariffs no doubt): https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/part/ferrari/168786-a?id=269198

A much cheaper option is this plain key for £27.76 (@$37.41) plus delivery (and tariffs if applicable): https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/part/ferrari/mc3674-1?id=87394

Interestingly, whilst Maranello Classic Parts (www.ferrariparts.co.uk - Essentially Ferrari's official classic parts supplier in the Europe) sell the plain key for £27.76. Eurospares sell the exact same key for £150 (@$202) : https://www.eurospares.co.uk/Parts/MC36741/Ferrari?pi=98087

That shows it pays to shop around when looking for parts.

(By the same token, Eurospares are showing the folding key to be "New to order" [meaning they have no stock], priced at £192.95 - Compared to Maranello Classic Parts £754!)

 

LOL!!! £754 For a KEY? ROFLOL.