5.2 f355 fogging out and almost stalling multiple times!

Do you get a slowdown light?

Recently serviced means?

Be cautious and don't run it so long on one bank that it breaks the propeller shaft.

 

Fuel tank contamination? Pump not getting enough fuel?

Did the service include a filter change?

 

Slow down light on?
Three things are required for a flawless run: fuel, air, spark.
Dirty fuel line or bad fuel pump,
A bad coil pack or a bad cat ecu.
Or a bad ecu....
Without a diagnosis or much more infos and tests, we are only guessing.

 

It depends. Inside the fuel pumps there are rubber parts that with time tend to become brittle and disintegrate and these residues can clog the system. Under lateral accelerations it is possible to experience fuel starving on the bank with a pump semi-clogged.

 

If I correctly remember, SDL should lit for a few second and then go off.

 

It should definitely come on (along with the Check Engine Light). Blown lamp? If both lights are not working, the injector relay or ECU could be faulty, but both banks wouldn’t work on a 5.2 car.

Anyway, that sounds like a separate issue. I don’t see how the SD system would cause a bank shut down in a turn. Or can wiring shorting against hot exhausts cause this?

 

An instable/corroded grounding poiint, maybe?

 

A US car should have an OBD2 port. Why not just buy a cheap scanner and check the codes?

 

1- Some ones ( on a 5.2 ) cut a wire on both the CAT ECU s that’s why you are not seeing the SDL momentarily when you turn the key .

2- Its not clear which “ ECU “ you are reffing to ? There’s the two CAT s or the main engine control unit ? Can you clarify Ps ?

If someone has snipped a wire in 1 above it’s bcz they are having trouble sorting a cylinder bank shut down issue related to the CAT s temps ,which is what your are experiencing. It might be simply a wiring issue around the pins of said plugs . They are just inside the rear shock towers .

Also faulty exhaust sensors and CAT temp sensors ….but you say “ I have new ECU + sensors “

Fuel pumps are inside the tank ( as with most modern cars ) and rubber gaskets perish and degrade performance over time .
They really are a service item on a 30 y old car and it’s time need prophylactically removing and servicing , all rubber bits replacing .
Maybe there’s something in the history?

A very simple diagnostic procedure is to E bay a infra red temp sensor £15 , ( as well as a code reader for the OB11 port ) and when it’s running fine do a exhaust manifold temp check and or exhaust tip ( ck if your back boxes cross over they normally do ) to see if there’s any difference, the cooler one will have a problem , the shut down one .

If the CAT sensors + ECU(s) ? Have been replaced recently and it’s still getting cylinder shutdown then I would look at there wiring first but it sounds like it’s got a fault ??

Then a separate issued as mentioned by someone ^ ignition, the spark side . Even loose plug wires or ignition module plugs , are the spark plugs caps tight , the leads ok ….basic stuff like that .

Anyhow you should see the SDL momentarily with a fully functioning CAT temp system.

 

P1446 = CEL burnt out or not installed
P1447 = Slow Down light burn out or not installed
P1448 = Bypass valve fault / thermocouple fault
P1449 = Drivers side CAT ECU / thermocouple / O2 sensor fault

You need to infra red temp the CATs even if the car appears to run ok .
Then repeat when “ the thing “ happens again .