countach A/C compressor R134A

FWIW I have plenty of r12 if you want. Shipping is the hard part. Yes I converted mine to 134 probably a decade ago, before I got the r12. All you really do is replace the receiver dryer, turn the compressor upside down & replace with ester oil (IIRC) & pull a vacuum. I doubt the compressor is anything special & could be interchanged.

 

Have you looked at a Sanden SD 508 compressor? There are plenty available under $250. I’ve used R152 as a straight swap for R12 in 3 vintage cars. Works great. It’s more environmentally friendly than R134, is cheap and easily available. But it is sold as air in a can for cleaning keyboards and such. Ultra duster industrial strength is the brand I have used, $28 for a 4 pack of 10 oz cans. You’ll need an adapter to piece the can and connect the hoses.

Officially R134 is not suppose to work as well as R12. But the people that have done it that I know were hard pressed to tell the difference.

Cheers Jim

 

I have not actually replaced one, but if I need to replace mine I will buy one like that. The best I can tell that is a direct replacement. I do recommend checking their return policy and comparing it to the old one as soon as you receive it in case you have to return it. More often than not parts like this are standard off the self items. Looking at Sanden’s web site I believe the 508 number indicates the displacement so that will be the same, it’s the external features you have to look closely at.

Note R134 and R12 use different oils. I would recommend flushing the system out on the car to clean out any residual oil out of the system before installing the new compressor with the new oil in it. You can buy kits that use compressed air and degreaser to clean out any old oil.

FYI, my car has the sticker on the compressor, that is where I got the Sanden 508 info.

Cheers Jim

 

The PITA is running new rubber tubes with metal tube internals. The original tubes run from back to front and they were tied together before the sills were installed. You will require a long cutting tool to free them up. Then attach the new generation tubes to the old ones and pull them through. The original tubes are not compatible with the new freon

 

Be sure to replace all the o-rings, at least in the engine bay, condenser, compressor, dryer, etc, use Viton or HNBR o-rings

I had a leaking system and it was a missing o-ring, from the factory, simply was never there, at the condenser...

Unless you have confirmed a leak in the long tubes or under the dash I would not recommend touching those components, start with the simple stuff at the back of the car.