New F buyer... how does the process work? | FerrariChat

New F buyer... how does the process work?

Discussion in 'Ferrari Discussion (not model specific)' started by ZMAN4321, Sep 29, 2025 at 8:24 PM.

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  1. ZMAN4321

    ZMAN4321 Rookie

    Aug 25, 2025
    2
    I'm new to the Ferrari, and supercar generally, purchasing. I'm interested in either an F12 or 458 (still deciding). Generally, I'd prefer to get Ferrari CPO just because I don't really know what I'm doing and would like the protection in case something goes wrong.

    First question is about dealer vs auction premium. I can generally look at BaT, carsandbids or Barrett-Jackson, etc to get a reasonable idea of what is a fair price for whatever spec I'm interested in. It seems dealers tend to list at significant premiums to those auction comps. Where do dealer cars tend to actually trade relative to both auction comps as well as dealer list prices? Is there typically significant room to negotiate? Or is it more like 5-10k below list is the best you can do?

    Second question is about PPI before buying. From reading the forums, it seems like there are plenty of horror stories about buying from a dealer without an independent PPI. I guess my problem is that the dealers are located all over the country. Is there a service that will find someone local and do an independent PPI at any dealer that I happen to be interested in? I don't have time to fly all over the country looking at each car.

    Finally, what is the typical turnover on these cars (how long do they last at the dealer)? I've only been looking for a few months, but every dealer I talk to talks up how many inquiries they are getting. Most cars I was initially looking at are still on the market now. How long will a dealer sit on a car before dropping the price? Or is that not how they operate at the Ferrari level?

    Thanks for all the help!
     
    paulchua likes this.
  2. Jaguar36

    Jaguar36 Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 8, 2010
    1,169
    Cherry Hill, NJ
    Based on the data I've collected, Ferrari Authorized dealers tend to list cars for about 10% more than independent dealers list them, and that's 10% higher again than BaT results (including fees). Depends on the car and dealer but you generally can negotiate down some of that difference.
    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    How long cars sit just depends on their spec and how they are priced. More unusual specs will sit for longer, unless they are priced low. Dealers will always talk about how many inquiries they get regardless though.
     
    vraa likes this.
  3. SAFE4NOW

    SAFE4NOW F1 Veteran
    Sponsor Owner

    Aug 25, 2004
    5,873
    Dallas Texas
    Full Name:
    If you know you know
    Good Luck in your search, it is a large part of the process.

    Pricing is not always apples to apples.

    The biggest difference when you purchase off BAT/Auction/Wholesaler, is that you get what you get. Not all the time but more often than not, the car truly is " as-is " and things may only be addressed if you catch them prior to sale. Where as Dealerships usually maintain a higher level of reconditioning, which translates to higher costs. Both of these statements are broad and not all encompassing. There are always exceptions.

    A CPO Ferrari requires an itemized checklist be performed BAT requires as well written description and carefully taken photos...

    Get a PPI, trust but verify, but not all sellers are going to be open to it. Doesn't mean its a bad option, but due your due diligence.

    Pricing, offer what you feel is fair for the Ferrari you want. If you are looking to " deal " that's another discussion ;-)

    Inventory turn over, Ferrari's sit longer than Toyota's... 6, 12,18 months... it happens. Some are consignments others are simply inventory.
    Heck, reconditioning can take 3 months before its even ready to sell, but it will be listed online in advance. ( Soft touch repairs take forever! )

    Have fun,


    S
     
  4. Racer_X

    Racer_X Karting

    Oct 20, 2017
    130
    MI
    Full Name:
    Tom
    Go to the advanced search tool:
    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/search/
    In the "keywords" section, put "PPI"
    In the "Search in Forums" section, scroll down to the regional area (e.g. South Central - TN, MS, AL, GA) you are interested in.
    Click the "search" button.

    If that doesn't result in the answer you are looking for, put a posting in the corresponding subforum for that region and ask for a PPI recommendation close to the city the car is in.

    Keep in mind:
    Ask the selling dealer if they have an open bay with a lift for the PPI work to be done in.
    If the shop doing the PPI is close enough(within 30 miles), a lot of dealers will drop the car off there for a day for a PPI to be done.
    Some PPI shops will travel a long way (I've paid for one to travel 150 miles) to do a PPI. You will have to pay travel fees, and potentially hotel fees if it's a really long distance.
     
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  5. Shark01

    Shark01 F1 Veteran

    Jun 25, 2005
    6,558
    Yeah, that service is handled by the guy you see in the mirror every day. Most good PPIs are handled by independent service centers. If you see a car you want to inspect, put a post here in the regional section asking who good indys are in that area and contract with them.

    If you find one that passes the PPI, do yourself a favor and fly to the location to close the deal in person. Not only is it really fun, but you can tell alot about a seller looking them in the eye.

    My other advice is to drive both cars first, they are very different from each other (full disclosure, one of the two you mention I really didn't like) so you aren't chasing multiple models at once.
     
    SCantera and LVP488 like this.
  6. LARRYH

    LARRYH F1 Veteran
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Jun 3, 2011
    9,707
    virginia usa
    Congratulations welcome ..In regards to buying an F12 or 458 either or one of each they are among the best of the recent Ferraris.
    I have to say I would rather buy a used one from a Ferrari dealer. I have gotten great deals on used Fcars in the past by offering whatever you are comfortable with. never know. However there are so many of these cars that are available just take your time and go for it…
    Good luck
    LARRYH
     
    SCantera likes this.
  7. ZMAN4321

    ZMAN4321 Rookie

    Aug 25, 2025
    2
    Shark- Thanks for the response. I'd love to hear your opinion on which you weren't a fan of. I've driven a 458 and loved it, but never the F12... but the siren song of the V12 really has me....
     
  8. ForeverNA

    ForeverNA F1 Rookie

    Dec 14, 2014
    2,628
    First F, I suggest PPI even for CPO. Go 458.
    Good specs car can be sold in a day or 2. Average spec can be months.
     
  9. TheMayor

    TheMayor Ten Time F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Feb 11, 2008
    107,198
    Vegas baby
    Everyone has their 2 cents on this matter. There is no right or wrong answer. All used car purchases are a krapshoot. But if you buy a CPO car from a dealer, usually you can negotiate some kind of limited warranty or purchase one. A dealer will not sell a severely crashed or trashed car. Scratch on the bumper? Sure. More, no. If they get one in trade they send it to an auction or a used car dealership.

    Most indy shops don't want to do PPI anymore. If something goes wrong they get blamed. If its a potential new customer they might. If you're in and out, its not worth their effort.

    IMO, I would never buy an auction car of any mass produced car. Its like picking out a wife from a photo and description on Facebook. All you can do is look at it and "trust" what is presented. IF you have knowledge about the car and its history it might be a way to go. But personally I would rather talk to the actual owner and look over the issues, history, and records. So, I would buy one from an owner directly rather then a auction or used car exotic dealer. But that's just me.

    458's are pretty good cars when it comes to reliability. And there are a lot of them. But when they break, they are a bunch of money. So have a budget you expect to pay for it in repairs in the first year. If you don't need it, you have it in the bank. If you do, don't whine about it because you were already expecting to spend that money.

    IMO, find your shop or mechanic you plan to use before buying. Walk in and have a conversation. Look around at what else is there and the general condition. Ask questions about general maintenance and costs. Be comfortable with them because when you need them, they are going to be important to your overall experience. And you might just need them right away.

    If you don't like what you see and hear -- walk and try go find another shop. But most likely you will like the shop. Starting a relationship early will give you confidence you have the right party if something goes wrong.

    Here is my last bit of advice. This is not a game of finding the "best deal". You don't buy these everyday. Its not a contest. Find the right car for you at a price you are willing to pay. Get one in the colors you want, as close to the options you want, the mileage you will accept, the general condition you expect, and a price you are willing to pay. Never let a good one go for a few thousand dollars.
     
    BMW.SauberF1Team likes this.
  10. Shark01

    Shark01 F1 Veteran

    Jun 25, 2005
    6,558
    Hated the 458, not enough torque, boring interior, too isolated....like something Mercedes would build. I drove it in between 2 Huracan Evos , which are great fun to drive with good torque and alot of theater, excitement.

    I own a V-12 and what they say about every true car guy owning a V-12 once in his life is very true. The trouble with most Ferrari V-12s though is that they are set up as GT cars (except for the 812 from what I hear, so see if you can stretch to that), whereas Lamborghini V-12s are not only mid engine but are set up as sportscars.
     

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