Interesting thread. I have nothing to add, but I want to be subscribed for updates to learn more. Thanks
I popped off the wheels this week and it took about 15 minutes to lower each front wheel, no issues. I could only lower the front about 6-7mm due to having a suspension lifter taking up most of the travel. On the rear, I couldn't turn the adjusters without the silver threaded cylinder also turning, so it appears there's a tool I need to hold the cylinder still. I tried spring compressors (didn't need them on the front) to take tension off, but still no go. Will look for a tool to get the job done on the back and post here if I find it. Anyway, hundred miles later, no codes, can't detect any difference in handling, and shockingly I can actually visually notice the slight lowering in the front - I just wanted a little touch of lowering and I think it accomplished the job.
Really great info, thanks for sharing. I also noticed on the front there is very little thread to lower, you said this is because of the lift system? I’m curious if you find the tool to hold the rear cylinder, I’ll also do some research on that. I’m hearing one should also have the suspension recalibrated after the lowering. I was going to take it to a shop to get lowered 6mm (.25in) all around and have the car corner balanced. I think going any lower the car bottoms out too easy on the track and starts to give me that nervous feeling on city street roads. Keep us posted on what you find?
Just a thought on the rears, perhaps instead of lowering the collar, hold the collar in one place and rotate the shock itself to make the adjustment.. I dont seem to see any tools available to hold it otherwise in place other than with firm grip or perhpas a large adjustable wrench.
