So here is the info as I now have it: Car ran fine up to gas station. Would not start to leave gas station. Ignition is "notchy", almost having to be forced over to the start position. Fuel smell Full battery charge Engine turns over robustly but no actual starting. No I haven't done any other diagnostics, yes I likely will soon BUT I am optimistic that one of you will have done this before with these symptoms and say "Check the white wire behind the fuse block" or "That smell is coming from the fuel accumulator" Any help appreciated! Thanks, Lester
Image Unavailable, Please Login probably a leaking fuel accumulator . Making starting difficult to no start when car is hot . When car is cold did you encounter difficulty in starting . You can check the fuel accumulator , you can disconnect the hose on the bottom of the fuel accumulator , if it leaks fuel most probably your accumulator is kaput
For many warm start issues due to fuel delivery, you can press the accelerator pedal about 1/3 of the way in while it's cranking and that will often get the engine to start. By cracking the throttle open, you pull air through the fuel meter which will open the fuel meter and in turn help the system to purge air/vapor. My warm start problem was due to the accumulator (one of many possible causes) and pressing the accelerator pedal worked every time until I got around to replacing accumulator.
Car will NOT start period. There is no cold start or hot start problem. ;-) Thanks for the thought though.
Here are some suggestions: 1. Ascertain either fuel or ignition problem. Disconnect the blue connector, turn key on, is the pump running ? 2. Remove one spark plug and one wire from bank 1, touch it to a ground point, have someone turn the engine over, is there spark? Each will lead you to a different path.
+1 1a. If you do hear the fuel pump run in this test, and it is a US version 328, touch the frequency valve to confirm that it is buzzing/vibrating (it should whenever the fuel pump is running).
I looked at you heading with humor, saab guy and no start. That is exactly what I've Ben dealing in my 2010 9-3 for the past week, no crank, no start, Trac and stability problems. Finally just got it to start today after 10 days of fiddling and I can't tell you why. Got to love modern electronics. My gt4 is cil, points and condenser..got to love it.
The reason you haven't heard the results of my testing on the 328 is that I had a no start condition on my '67 SAAB Sonett II. But its better now, turns out the fuel gauge sending unit is off so not only did I not have a 1/4 tank, I had no fuel. Easy fix after the diagnostics,
@Saabguy did you make any headway with both your cars, on the 328 i believe you said, " Ignition is "notchy", almost having to be forced over to the start position" i would start with that even though you can get the starter to Engauge it does not mean that the rest of the electrical system is getting power. easy check would in the fuse box on any circuit that is power with key on only or check the 12-volt lead on the coils, no 12volts no start, too me having to force the ignition switch is not right good luck
I agree with 26street. It takes fuel, spark and compression to run. Easy to narrow that down. We have been replacing the electrical part of the ignition switches since they were new cars and the symptom is the same as yours. It also explains it ran one second and would not restart the next. . Perform the simple tests Steve gave you and if in fact it is electrical in nature work backwards to the switch itself. If the switch is the problem buy one of the German replacements and not one of the Chinese knockoffs.
IT RUNS!! Through no act of mine, I left it alone while I researched possible problems and waited for better weather. Got in and it fired right up. Of course now I am a member of the warm/hot start failure club. Sigh. Time for more research!
Over the last 6 months I have periodically tried to start her up. Same symptoms as before, spins but no start. Earlier in the year I had replaced both the fuel pump and the fuel pump switch relays with new. Dropped he relay board and heard the fuel pump relay click, and the longer I held the starter the more frequent the clicks. I looked on the floor and replaced the new relay with the old one and she started right up. After a while I tried again and she started right up. This thing is killin' me. And the old SAAB I didn't start because the oil injector pump would not prime. Replaced with a previously R&R'd one but all of that is just so that I could get to the brake master cylinder. Just waiting on the rebuild kit to arrive. All of the usual sources won't ship to the US.
Did you isolate the problem to igntion or fuel? And if ignition, did you isolate the problem to which system is not getting power?
Might be the crank position sensors starting to fail, heat can render one nearing its end of life have intermiitent problems. They are just ferrite magnets, that loose their signal sending capability over time. If they have never been replaced, that would be something to consider. The replacements need to have their two mounting flange holes enlarged, ie. widening to fit on the studs which the sensors mount on, typically using a dremel tool, before installing. The gas smells means you are cranking and flooding the engine. Possibly a good sign suggesting your fueling system is working.
