No personal experience on Dino engines, per se, but I've replaced variety of (cylinder head, main cap, connecting rod, etc), bolts/studs on variety of engine blocks I've rebuilt, including Daytona, due to variety of reasons over past 4+ decades and imagine there are countless or at least millions of others who've done it too. Most I've ever needed were available either OEM or aftermarket, but some I had to have custom made-to-order.
I'm assuming you mean the studs for the heads? I've changed the studs and nuts on my L-series engine precautionary during a engine out service in 2020. The studs are readily available from the usual suppliers . They are made in improved material and methods and pricing is fair. I consider it a "worth while" job to do unless you know the history of the original studs and that they appear in good condition. On the L-series engine you will need to seal the studs with Loctite hydraulic sealer (Or similar brand) because the threads in the block enters into the cooling water gallery. Best, Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I was told by the retired engine builder at Superformance - replace head studs and nuts everytime, if you dont they will break when you torque then up next time!
Unfortunately ARP does not have them for Dino. Just called them last week. Unless they go by another name or a part number?
I had ARP make up about 900 studs back in 2012 and they turned out great. I sent them a sample and told them they had to make sure the rounded end was the same as the originals as it was visible on some of the studs. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Alberto, Always change the head studs on any engine work, if you dont and the old studs do break its heart wrenching to remove the heads again. Lock two old nuts together on the stud and undo them. Mole grip on the plain section and spanner on the nuts to assist. They will be very hard to remove but once you get them to break free you have won the battle. I found a little heat from a blow lamp applied half way up the stud helps a lot. Seal as per Peter's advice above. Best Tony
Selling any? 900? Seriously? I have a stud remover (Stahlwille socket) that will take out studs, gripping a whole lot of the body, and better than 2 nuts, yet studs do break upon removal. Also when being tightened. Neither is good.
This was back in 2012 and I confirmed a number of sets with many folks here in the US and my Stratos buddies in Europe. Only one set left for myself. ARP studs can be re-torqued many times. Most of the studs available now are probably much better than the factory studs.
