Looking spectacular though. Top work Adam.
Got the itbs cleaned up. The new ac compressor had the wrong pulley, so I swapped it over. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hooked up the clutch line, and started reinstalling the engine. Actual manual swap content should be coming soon. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
How you route the clutch line is up to yourself, but how I did it (and hence how the length is based), is to point the clutch hose the opposite direction, and to loop it up and back along the top frame rail. This was to mimic the routing of the F1 hose and to maintain distance from the manifolds (thought the hose does have high temp insulation over it).
Pedal box setup... 1. Pulled the pedal box out. It helps to remove the windshield wiper motor with the pedal box partially pulled out. 2. I first measure the length of the original brake pedal. Then mark where the clutch pedal would replace the part of the brake pedal. 3. I cut and measure the total length of both pedals. It helps to measure with both pedals on the original shaft. 4. Then I test fit. I had to make a pin holder for the clutch spring(I'll look for an original one). 5. You need to enlarge the hole for the brake pedal bearing. Then insert the bearing. 6. When assembling I hook up both springs before inserting the shaft for the pedals. I use Shin-Estu grease for all the moving parts(the shaft, springs etc). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
On the spring pin… this was my omission. It’s included on all kits now. Was my mad that it wasn’t there in your kit.
selector Rod Setup: 1. Install the turret. 2. Install the joint/buffer bar to the transmission. I had to machine down my joint to fit the selector on the transmission. 3. Install the rod to the lever. 4. I measure the amount of the rod to be removed. Do this in steps so you don't take off too much. 5. I use a mark on the rod to adjust the shifter. Make sure it goes the same length up and back. That way you know your 100 percent centered. Then do right to left. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Finished up the pedal box: -Added 2 m8 studs for the master clutch cylinder(you could use a bolt, but I wanted oemish look). -Adjust the clutch pedal travel. -The hardest part of the swap is getting the bolt on to attach the slave with the pedal. I had to use a crows foot socket to bolt it on. Installed the pedal box tips: -It's much easier to install if you remove the two brake lines that go to the master cylinder. -It's easier if you remove the lower panel. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
100% -- huge pain. What I did was leave the clutch master cylinder unbolted to the pedal box and left the clutch pedal free in the pedal box (without the rod through it or return spring attached). That way you can angle the assembly partially out of the box, get access to the 13mm nut to connect the MC rod, and once it's connected, then bolt down the MC and run the rod through the pedals. I couldn't for the life of me do it any other way.
So do the brake and clutch masters share an overflow reservoir? How do the guys do this who want to continue using ATF instead of converting over to DOT4?
They do share the same reservoir, so I wouldn't continue to use atf for the slave cylinder. I replaced the slave cylinder seals to allow the dot 4 fluid, and flushed all the atf out.
Right now they are about even, maybe slightly farther out clutch pedal. I may adjust this when I bleed the clutch for the right feel.
Mine was already assembled, so I kept the rod through the pedals(was lazy, and didn't want to install it again). So I kept the slave unbolted, and was able to move the rod back a bit. I pulled the bolt out a tad, and slipped the nut under it, then pulled the bolt down to rest on the nut. Hand tightened the bolt on. I used a crows foot to get the nut behind and was able to tighten up the bolt. I should have taken a picture of my setup .
