I was syncing my carbs after the rebuild and the ball on my upper linkage stopped off. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement? Image Unavailable, Please Login
https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/Diagram/Ferrari/308-GTB-GTS-Carburetor/011-Throttle-Control Find the exact part you are looking for in the parts diagram and search for the part number
Thanks. If I have to I will get the whole privet. I am hoping to just replace the ball but I don't think that will happen.
May work! https://www.ebay.com/itm/201391692704?_skw=ferrari+308+linkage+ball&itmmeta=01K846G6GEW5ZFXGFSHD117JHX&hash=item2ee3e15ba0:g:c6EAAOSw0flkntpb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cBkItX3zs7ANTrglOMbRUDWnPtjv8MOAV6T48B%2BeLpYrlJvaxu68hZmOVP%2B1BhTs2UFk4Bz%2Bf0PqOiDYOkII5hUxtqSCQM42g3JiSFQ5XxPNfYKLuUuf6lbaHxl2cRs7jaFr3n0yLW4ddnfZ%2B0hl%2F6D8FBeScFNEcvilJZLBrwLepCOgMHVF86JyXGg3B3b3wzqXNhR%2BQ99wCh98q%2BJwa6LS8oorVdT661ceAihl7%2FwgKcxRE3v9QOW%2FnycGnFXmLLZD6NYSlhNYKtvZt06z6FIg%2FiaJ6y%2FHDZ%2Bz97sAlUaA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6zowIbBZg
i can't tell from the picture. Is this like a tie rod end? Those are pretty standrd items and can be sourced at Mcmaster Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/tie-rod-ends/ Image Unavailable, Please Login
I can't tell from your photo if the stud is swagged on or through bolted to the bracket. These ball attachments are very common to Weber equipped cars and come in all sorts of configurations. Here is a link to one for a Fiat 124. https://autoricambi.us/ball-stud-for-carburetor-linkage/?setCurrencyId=1 Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well that 's a crappy bit of luck.....and it is swagged; you can see the swagged part of the post that lives on the opposite side of the pivot just above the area Lee circled (I just happen to have mine on the bench atm). If that were mine Lee, for $230 I'd be tempted to drill out what's left of the stud and explore the website Mark posted the link to and see if you can find a bolt-on replacement. Good luck. - Dave
Here is another ball stud, a little more expensive but it comes with a nut. https://www.piercemanifolds.com/5_16_8MM_BALL_STUD_p/700.123.htm
Just dremel the back of the stud so the upset part is gone and it will tap right out, then just use a standard balloted and nut.
Wow thanks everyone for the help. I did planed on drilling it out but was having tremble finding an 8mm ball. I have found a used lever for $150 but if the two that @miked posted would work that would be better. I could do both at the same time to make sure the other is not going to snap also. Here is a good picture of one. Image Unavailable, Please Login
So not to hijack Lee's thread, but interested in the group's thoughts on an issue related to the carb linkage pivot. As mentioned above (and in other posts), I'm in the middle of the same project as Lee. Mine started out as identifying the cause of excessive stiction in the return action of my throttle linkage, which was traced to (mostly) being caused by 45 year-old molasses masquerading as grease in the needle bearing you can see in the pic Lee posted of the pivot. As a young bike mechanic working on high-end bikes, we used to lube select bearing surfaces with oil instead of grease to reduce friction by 0.000005%. Given that the carb linkage pivot is well-protected from the elements, a pain in the ass to get to, and does not have a high load on its bearing, I thought it would be a good candidate for this treatment; not to improve performance but to improve serviceability. Thoughts? - Dave
I don't care if you highjack it as long as you don't ask for ransom. I was thinking the same thing. I was trying to think of a light oil that wont dry up
Thanks Lee.....the only ransom I'd be interested in is more info about our cars. Personally, I'm not worried about any oil drying up because I would lube the pivot on a regular basis if that's the route I end up taking. The needle bearing isn't sealed, so you should be able to get the lube to wick into the bearing. Failing that, you could remove the C-clip that retains the pivot - without dismantling the linkage - to gain better access to the bearing. If you wanted to be really fancy, you could drill a small diameter hole in the part of the pivot that holds the bearing and create a lube port. But that's another project for another day..... - Dave
I use a very light assembly lube when freeing up old linkages. I agree the grease is not needed. Just something to keep it from rusting away over the years. P.S. I have a linkage ball pivot. It fell out of a TR linkage in 1995 and the arm was just replaced. I saved it just in case I needed it later.
I am a little bummed out. I was taking it to a charity car show on the river this weekend. Now I will be taking the Exige. I thought of taking the X1/9. The ball joints are on the way so that is good.
From the company that brought you kroil.. https://www.super-lube.com/ I like their silicone oil and dry film spray. Good line of products across the board as well.
I totally misunderstood what you were looking for but Mcmaster_carr has a large selection of ball studs as well: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yup; Super Lube products and Tri-Flow are what we used in our bike shop back in the day. The Super Lube especially leaves a particularly tenacious film. - Dave
Update. I got the balls from Auto Ricambi today. They are the right size. I will get the ones from Pierce Manifold Tuesday.
Today I got the parts from Pierce Manifold. I cut the mushroomed head off and used a punch to get the old ball out. It was very easy. The shaft on the one from Auto Ricambbi is slightly smaller than hole. It was enough I was concerned it would mess up the sync if it shifter. The Pierce Manifold one is a perfect fit. @ChevyDave the barings in there are nasty. Best to take it off for and give it a good cleaning if yours is sticking. Here some photos, the silver one is from Pierce Manifold. I hope this helps if someone els has this problem. Thanks @miked for the links. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Congrats Lee! Yup, it took a couple of dunkings in the ultrasonic to get all the nasty out of mine. One thing I was concerned about in using a bolt-on replacement ball joint was the stud and nut interfering with the linkage on the back side. Let us know if you run into any issues there. - Dave
Yes the nut was just a little too thick. I installed it with come lock tight and cut a small slither off. They are all synced and no spitting. If it would stop raining I will take it on a test ride. Image Unavailable, Please Login