QV Engine & Gearbox inspection and preparation for efi

Everything looks great!

.2mm sounds fine, my cams suggested .006/.008" or .15/.2 for int/exh. Excess clearance, meaning in the acceleration ramp causes things bang a bit. Too tight and the valves don't close fully would be the concern but many here have used CatCams with no reports of issues I've seem so I really thing it will be fine

 

Looking really good Peter! This will be a great and reliable engine. "just enough"

 

This is great! I don't have experience with a 308, but I converted my Jetronic injected VW Scirocco to Megasquirt and added a turbocharger, so I might be able to help with the standalone stuff.

What injectors did you get?

I took a similar path to what was suggested for the tables. For ignition there were ignition curves in the factory manual with spark vs RPM and also the vacuum advance/retard tables. I was able to translate those to a table. I didn't use a trigger wheel, I locked my stock distributor and used that. Your trigger wheel is a better option.

And fuel is a lot easier, just take a similar existing map and get the car running, and then use a good quality wide band to tune it from there. Throttle enrichment is probably the hardest part to get right here.

 

I have one request. Install the engine with the a/c compressor mounted like the factory does. Send pics as you go as well .

 

Is this the injector? This is the datasheet I found:

https://webshop.swindonpowertrain.com/image/catalog/datasheets/Injection_Valve_EV_14_Datasheet_51_en_2775993867.pdf

I don't see deadtime though. You can calculate that yourself. I remember there is a very involved process to do it. I didn't bother. I just got the deadtime in the ballpark and then tuned the car based on AFR and enrichment and cold start on feel and everything is good.

Here's some light reading on calculating it https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=75698

 

Agree re latency timing, exact data is almost impossible to get. Get it sort of close in range and it’s fine

 

There are a lot of places that will measure them for you these days....that is the easy button. You can get pretty close by switching between sequential and semi-sequential and adjusting until there is no mixture change.

For sure you can guess and tune but having it right or close to right makes life better. Warm all the corrections should be about 0 so you're fine. But colld is where you see it. On my care the idle pulse is about 2.2ms, and 1.2ms of that is dead time. the I have about 40% correction for coolant at 20C which is applied only the the fuel portion not the dead time, but at power the pulse times go p, I think cruise is about 4ms, so % wise the dead time is 50% at idle and 25% at cruise which means if dead time is wrong the cold mixture depends on load and it just wouldn't run as well until its warm. Battery correction for starting a bit too....if everything is normal then the voltage is the same so it just works out but if the battery is low for whatever reason having the right corrections lets it start better.

Also on ITBs the effective fuel pressure changes with throttle position so its nice to have the flow and dead time vs differential pressure curves. Again its all good when its warm but tuning warmup is more challenging if its not accounted for.