458 2012 458 crazy jerks/tugging during Upshifts and Downshifts

Sorry to hear your troubles, James. Hope everything gets sorted out soon and for good. While it’s always a nuisance to spend that kind of money on a car, at least take comfort in knowing that it’s best to spend that money on your esteemed exotic, than on a hospital bill. That’s how I deal with it.

Kind regards,

Nuno.

 

Can you provide any info on the reinforced part? I haven’t heard about that option before - and I just renewed my warranty out of fear of this very issue [emoji15][emoji383][emoji383][emoji851]


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Sorry to hear this, when this happens it makes me happy I buy the power warranty every year.

 

Thank you very much for the update, James. Despite the expensive invoice, seems like your 458 was subjected to some quality treatment and the problem was properly addressed and taken care of for good.

It’s now time to rack up some serious and carefree miles!

Kindest regards and keep enjoying in good health.

Nuno.

 

Sorry to hear this and glad it worked out. Not sure if you would have saved money with a power train warranty. The 7 year “warranty” is actually just a maintenance contract. The actual coverage to fix things that break is only either 2 years or 3. After that, power train coverage is around $5-6k per year. So 5 years x $5k is $25k since your car is a 2012. If nothing else breaks this year, you would be behind by $5k since your repair bill was $20k.


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James, congrats on getting the car fixed--those pictures look pretty gnarly. Hope it's trouble free from here on out!

 

Sucks you went through this, i also just went through a Trans headache (mine was the sensors, had to split it open and change all sensors $8K) your issue isn't very common though, first time i'm hearing of this happening, the good news is your car is on the road & you're enjoying it now! or so we assume, update us, how has it been?

 

I'm in the market for a 458, and wondering if the "Improved Model" is the '12 or '13.

 

damn a $30K bill you have a great (and admirable) attitude on this issue...bravo! enjoy the car

 

no such thing as improved model, its all BS, 2010-2015 all faced the same problems..and they aren't many problems, the 458 is a solid car

 

Hello, to be honest, I did not read the topic and what was written in detail. Obviously, a long time has passed and a conclusion has been reached regarding the incident, but I will still give you my opinion/experience. The 458's transmission may make a slight vibration in automatic mode and at different revs/speeds (for example, when driving at 40 mph in 7th gear). This is not an indication of a problem with the transmission, but something inherent in the structure of the gearbox.

 

The only way for you to know this is to have built them all.

 

Talked to enough actual Ferrari techs, service managers and even challenge team techs...

 

None of those people built any cars.

Ferrari is famous for updating and changing components--sometimes quietly--throughout a model's production. 458s have differing throttle mapping, power steering fluid requirements and (it is said) changes in the DCT like the placement and orientation of the the zip ties that hold certain wiring harnesses in it. Just like the old F355 bronze v. steel valve guide situation, just because some later models had the "old" components does not mean a design or material was not changed and the probability of a failure is greatly reduced with the younger cars.

 

What type of injector cleaner did you use?

 

Is there a specific CRC cleaner to use?

 

Can I use this?
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Hi everybody. Looks like this thread has been a tad dormant, but I'd really like some opinions on what I'm experiencing.

I've got a 2015 458 Spider that I picked up CPO a few months ago, and while the DCT certainly seemed "jumpy" from all the reviews it was to be somewhat suspected. I've owned and driven a bunch of DCT variants over the past 15 years (3 BMW M cars, Porsche 911, Audi R8, and McLaren 720), but the 458 seemed to have the most "slop" when I purchased it. The 458 has about 7k miles on it and it feels far less precise than my BMW E92 did at 105k.

Now I'm having other related issues:

- Putting the car in reverse when cold to exit the garage and hitting the accelerator pedal does nothing initially, but I'll rev a bit higher and it jolts into gear and takes off. I need to immediately brake to control the car
- Also when cold, I'll get to a stop sign and if I come to a full stop and then hit the gas, nothing happens for 1-2 seconds but it will roll backwards a bit, then engages forward
- Driving in manual with any performance selector setting has become nearly intolerable & jolts the car forward or backward

I am going through the proper ignition sequence and letting it sit a bit before driving, but it's not helping.

I'm now starting the process of diagnosis & repair with the original dealer and my local dealer, but would love any additional thoughts. This car was fully CPOd several months ago, including a DCT service, and I have a full powertrain warranty. I've driven a few hundred miles total since then so I'm a bit surprised, but just looking for more thoughts before I take it back in. Thanks!

 

Nothing you describe is normal. My car's DCT has ZERO "slop." I recommend you find out what precisely was done in the "DCT service." I am a firm believer in changing DCT fluid every few years. Try it and report back!