Exhaust Mount Spring

That's not the best approach. You need to loosen all of the (spherical) exhaust joints in the system -- i.e., the muffler is mounted to the chassis and the headers are bolted to the engine (those are "fixed" locations) -- then the interconnecting pieces (precats and cats) are what get moved around slightly to join them and absorb all of the tolerances between those fixed locations -- then those exhaust joints are tightened. (Of course, those joints, bolts, and gasket may be crispy critters, and may need some clean-up work and/or new donut gaskets -- you didn't think it would be easy did you .)

 

when you only put the muffler on with those holders without connecting to the exhaust system does the muffler then looks right in place?

 

Always possible that the aftermarket muffler is just mismade, and needs "correction/modification". As romano suggested, if the muffler when just mounted (hung) by itself, and then held gently to rotate the tips into place, is wacky = that's a problem. There should be some up-down adjustment in the "forks" -- item 11 here:

https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/diagram/ferrari/testarossa-tr-90/020-exhaust-system-(for-us-sa-and-cat-version)

to make side-to-side tip height adjustments, but the spring support assemblies shouldn't need to be modified.

 

Mark, a couple of pics from my '86 rear deck right side locking linkage that may help you unlock your right side while accessing same from below with the valence still off. EDoug

Right side linkage in the locked position (with lever straight vertical).
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Right side linkage in the unlocked position with the screwdriver rotating the lever forward.
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Right side linkage in the unlocked position with hand pushing the lever forward.
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The muffler on my ‘86 had adjustable tangs that go into those spring mounts. It’s two 13mm bolts and nuts. You can adjust those to figure out muffler tip gap.

 

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the triangle piece is adjustable.

 

James, IIRC, the horizontal slots on the triangular plate and the corresponding silencer attachment plate could maybe accommodate a slight horizontal adjustment. For me those slots make it easier for single-handedly lifting the silencer onto the mounts when needed because two of those slots are open on the end. The issue here is vertical height adjustment on one side.

Mark, just a thought. I did previously take my silencer supports apart a while back, but I do not know if the following will completely solve your vertical misalignment. If you tighten the main thru-bolt from the bottom while holding the top nut, doing so will compress the springs slightly. Then rotate the loose fork down on the exposed threads. This will shorten the support a little. To lengthen the support a little, just do the opposite direction. (Remember when lengthening, the fork will act like a jamb nut so rotate it away first.) I do not know just how much vertical adjustment is possible but maybe by raising on one side and lowering on the other might help. EDoug.


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Mark, your pics really show why your hangers need to be adjusted to hang the exhaust tips at the same elevation. I hope this works and is certainly a DIY adjustment, but who knows with aftermarket parts. That would be my first priority. Secondly, the final exhaust tip location might be more suited to be about 1/2 inch up into the cut-out opening if that is achievable. Others might comment here, but I went out to the garage and noted that my stock silencer exhaust tips are both up into the opening just a little bit. Whatever looks good is good enough. EDoug

 

so when without connected to the exhaust pipes from the engine the muffler hanging right then it is never a problem of the hangers left and right.
so I´m a little confused about this what you write