360 - Anyone ever had their Tubi headers crack at the cylinder head? | Page 2 | FerrariChat

360 Anyone ever had their Tubi headers crack at the cylinder head?

Discussion in '360/430' started by Jaymac, Oct 25, 2025.

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  1. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula 3
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    Dec 18, 2020
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    The machine shop said they would put it in their oven to “bake it” before decking it (after the weld repairs), but I will be sure to ask the welder if they’re planning on doing that as part of their repair.
     
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  2. Extreme1

    Extreme1 Formula 3

    Jun 27, 2017
    1,461
    Santa Clarita, CA
    Replace the gasket. Do this right or you will be doing it again.
     
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  3. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
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    Dominick
    Tell them this is unacceptable for the price and you would.like.a replacement
     
  4. Extreme1

    Extreme1 Formula 3

    Jun 27, 2017
    1,461
    Santa Clarita, CA
    Ok this is the same annealing process, just done in a different way.
     
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  5. andrejwolk1975

    andrejwolk1975 Karting

    Feb 28, 2020
    154
    Italy
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    Andrea M
    This is a perimetral failure not only a crack. Maybe this point was a ittle bit "recessed" than other 3 and thermal stress on a constant "stretch" caused this.
     
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  6. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula 3
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    You’re right. Gaskets and OEM nuts in my cart on @Ricambi America . I’m going to call tomorrow and see if they’ll separate the set of OEM gaskets. The site will only allow a minimum of 8 gaskets.

    I can try, but I’m also not the original purchaser. I have the last owners installation receipt from the shop, but not the receipt for the parts themselves.
    Sounds like you have some welding knowledge. Do you think there could be any issues with rewelding this?

    The welder I found does this all the time on Harley’s due to vibration and flexing.
     
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  7. andrejwolk1975

    andrejwolk1975 Karting

    Feb 28, 2020
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    Andrea M
    I think this work is doable but
    my suggestion is to remove the header:
    1) for a deep inspection on then inner side of the "crack" (debris incoming....who knows?);
    2) to verify the planarity of the installing surface of the header, maybe it was warped from the very beginning;
    3) to freely work on the header without concern and in the best possible way.
    If the header is ok on the inside, with no tendency to create debris, if you can (easily) recover the planarity of the piece I think that a professional welder could do the job easily.
    But as I said, first try to contact the producer: owners change the original headers for not having this kind of problems.....and you have had this.kind of problems!
    The F430 is a bit more "harsh" on the headers due the design, the 360 is more on the gently side with them.
     
  8. 2ndGen

    2ndGen Rookie

    Mar 16, 2024
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    Mike G
  9. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
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    These may work

    Bmw 18107523805
     
  10. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Professional Ferrari Technician

    Sep 18, 2002
    20,083
    The Cold North
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    Tom
    Are your manifolds serial numbered near the collector flange? If so..email Tubi with pictures of the failure. I would send it back to them. They may repair, or send you a new replacement. I had an issue with a 355 Tubi manifold and there was zero issue with warranty. I had a new manifold within 3 days. Shipping paid.
     
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  11. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula 3
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    Thanks to all for your suggestions. I ended up going with OEM nuts and gaskets from @Ricambi America. I questioned whether going with a smaller head size and different locking design could compromise strength or longevity. I didn’t find the 13mm’s that difficult to work with. Much easier than most people’s accounts led me to expect. Perhaps it’s because I was removing aftermarket headers vs OEM, or perhaps it was the right combination of wrenches, skinny hands and wrists, telescoping illuminated mirrors, flashlights, and sheets of Kaizen foam and tempurpedic pillows to lay on top of the engine while working from above… but it wasn’t that bad! :D
     
  12. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula 3
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    That’s good to hear! They are stamped and numbered. I reached out to them via IG, and they responded and told me to send my account of the failure and pictures to their main email address. I did so earlier this evening. I’ll be interested to see what they say.
    Thanks!
     
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  13. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula 3
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    Progress update:
    * Tubi said the 6 year old headers are out of warranty, but looped in EuroSpares as the original retailer to come up with a solution. They came back with an offer to send them to EuroSpares with the original receipt; they would then send them to Tubi for repair; Tubi would send them back to EuroSpares; EuroSpares would collect payment of $750 and send them back to me. I would be responsible for all shipping charges and duties.

    * I opted to have my local contact re-weld the failed seam. $200

    * I then brought them to my uncle-in-laws machine shop, which specializes in medium-scale custom fabrication for continuous -production products. He verified that the mounting flange is indeed out of plane. He annealed the repaired manifold for me but recommend I find a machine shop that specializes in manifold resurfacing. He said he could do it for me, but would have to fabricate all the necessary jigs to do so, and find time to get it on an open machine, as many of them run programs 24/7.

    * I found a local automotive machine shop that can do the work in a couple of days. I’ll drop it off tomorrow, so I can hopefully have the car back on the road by Friday. I didn’t ask how much because I don’t care.

    It’s been a very frustrating 2 weeks waiting on other businesses and business hours to get the car back up and running. It’s my daily driver half of the week, and the downtime kills me.

    Hopefully back on the road this weekend!
     
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  14. Jaymac

    Jaymac Formula 3
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    Conclusion: The shop I found had the mounting flange resurfaced and leveled in a matter of hours; $170. I put everything back together with new OEM gaskets and nuts and gave it a go. No leaks; problem solved!
    Now, while I was laying on top of the engine installing the top manifold nuts, I discovered that 3 out of the 4 screws in the “pneumatic capsule” had vibrated themselves out of the cover. 2 of them were laying in the valley of the plenum. The 3rd was long gone. The 4th was hanging on for dear life. I’m glad I saw this when I did. I have no idea how long it’s been like this. What symptoms could this have created while it been working itself loose? I haven’t had any error codes or obvious adverse effects. Either way, I put some removable loctite on the 3 original screws, and dremeled down the head of a cap screw of the same thread and pitch complete the set. All secure now. Car sounds, runs and drives great.
    Now I’m just wondering if the other side is out of plane too… o_O
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